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Thread: My Candy White VR6

  1. #11
    the glass from an IBIZA 1 is the one which fits best, better than the b4 one. I would have one, if you want to pick it up in Germany :-)

    Regards

    Gunther

  2. #12
    Enthusiast pfnsht's Avatar
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    Passat B4 moonroof sourced (thanks Stuart) but yet to find a dry day to fit.

    Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up.

    There were two hard bits to this job:

    1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.
    2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.

    The procedure:

    1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.
    2. Remove bits from engine bay to gain good access to remove the circlip. You'll need a mirror so you can see what you're doing to get it off. I have a set of hook and picks that I used a couple of to get it off.
    3. Sensor removed, make sure you have the o-ring too and don't lose the circlip either!
    sensor test.JPG
    4. Sensor disassembled. I took it apart by picking out the factory sealant and using an electricians screwdriver to pry it apart, without putting too much strain on the outer casing. It was a fiddly job and took a while to free it apart.
    bits used.JPG
    5. I've never soldered before. First I cleaned up old solder from the joints by heating it up with the iron and using the solder vacuum sucker thing the extract it. I then re-soldered the circuit board to the points.
    fresh solder.JPG
    6. I then losely put it back together and tested it using my multi meter. I haven't used this before either but googled. I looked for the symbol ".)))" which I googled as meaning continuity. I then hooked the red and black testers to the points on the sensor. I got a reading between 250 to 850 as I slid the plunger thing in and out.
    7. I then got some clear sealant from the shed and put it back together.
    back together.JPG

    I'm waiting 24 hours for it to dry and should be able to re-fit it on Wednesday. Fingers crossed this fixes my issue.

    Next jobs booked are full under carriage steam clean and re-seal with Dinitrol and the Bilstein B12 is being fitted at the same time. Hopefully will get some pictures.
    Last edited by pfnsht; 11th November 2018 at 4:57 PM.
    1995 White VR6 CCGB Member 4303
    263 Cams & head refurb | 220 BHP Stealth remap| Miltek non res | Bilstein B12 | R32 Wishbone bushes | VT Mount

  3. #13
    Enthusiast pfnsht's Avatar
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    Jobs done over the last week:

    Sunroof

    New Sunroof mech fitted along with Stuart's B4 moonroof. I cleaned and serviced the mech with lube as much as I could without disassembly. The moonroof is sitting a touch too low at the back so need to fettle a bit more, at the moment it is pushed to the top of the adjusters though so need to figure out how to get the whole thing higher. Let me know any tips.

    ABS

    ABS sensor brake position sensor fitted - fault cleared - all good.

    Sill have a semi intermittent ABS fault with the pump but have a spare to fit at some point. Probably get my mechanic to do it as I haven't bled brakes before.

    Oil Leak

    Sourced oil leak - easy one - low pressure (0.25bar) oil sensor (PN 028 919 081 D). Also replacing high pressure sensor (1.4bar) next to it (PN 068 919 081 D) as only a few quid.

    These are easy to change with an extension and joint on your socket wrench. You'll need a deep 24mm socket. Don't forget to push a metal washer on too (my meyle from vwheritage sensors came with new ones).

    72740217-9c8d-4a9b-84da-b1097cbf2a8f.jpg

    Suspension

    Saturday the car goes in for rust treatment and undersealing with Dinitrol. I haven't got much rust under there but the factory underseal is flaking away and it's only a matter of time before I do get rust. Bilstein B12 suspension will also be fitted now I have received replacement rear springs from Eibach.

    For those interested - there is an issue with the rear springs supplied with the B12 kit. They sit too low at the rear, basically on the bump stops. I wanted my drop to be more consistent with the front so had them send me out (via Larkspeed who have been very helpful) new rears.

    Incorrect rear PN EW 851 3002 HA

    Correct rear PN 850 2002 HA

    Rear springs.jpg
    Last edited by pfnsht; 21st November 2018 at 11:45 AM.
    1995 White VR6 CCGB Member 4303
    263 Cams & head refurb | 220 BHP Stealth remap| Miltek non res | Bilstein B12 | R32 Wishbone bushes | VT Mount

  4. #14
    CF-oholic! fla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pfnsht View Post
    Passat B4 moonroof sourced (thanks Stuart) but yet to find a dry day to fit.

    Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up.

    There were two hard bits to this job:

    1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.
    2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.

    The procedure:

    1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.
    2. Remove bits from engine bay to gain good access to remove the circlip. You'll need a mirror so you can see what you're doing to get it off. I have a set of hook and picks that I used a couple of to get it off.
    3. Sensor removed, make sure you have the o-ring too and don't lose the circlip either!
    sensor test.JPG
    4. Sensor disassembled. I took it apart by picking out the factory sealant and using an electricians screwdriver to pry it apart, without putting too much strain on the outer casing. It was a fiddly job and took a while to free it apart.
    bits used.JPG
    5. I've never soldered before. First I cleaned up old solder from the joints by heating it up with the iron and using the solder vacuum sucker thing the extract it. I then re-soldered the circuit board to the points.
    fresh solder.JPG
    6. I then losely put it back together and tested it using my multi meter. I haven't used this before either but googled. I looked for the symbol ".)))" which I googled as meaning continuity. I then hooked the red and black testers to the points on the sensor. I got a reading between 250 to 850 as I slid the plunger thing in and out.
    7. I then got some clear sealant from the shed and put it back together.
    back together.JPG

    I'm waiting 24 hours for it to dry and should be able to re-fit it on Wednesday. Fingers crossed this fixes my issue.

    Next jobs booked are full under carriage steam clean and re-seal with Dinitrol and the Bilstein B12 is being fitted at the same time. Hopefully will get some pictures.
    Great info here, thanks for documenting what you did. I'm sure it will help a few of us out
    Hasan
    VR6 Auto to manual conversion, beige leather, aircon, TT comps, blue dash lights & switches, Koni TA/Nothelle springs, OBD2, 264 cams, Schrick

    my car

  5. #15
    Enthusiast pfnsht's Avatar
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    No probs Hasan. Your thread and many others have been very helpful to me since I have joined! I need to get better at taking pictures as I work.
    1995 White VR6 CCGB Member 4303
    263 Cams & head refurb | 220 BHP Stealth remap| Miltek non res | Bilstein B12 | R32 Wishbone bushes | VT Mount

  6. #16
    Enthusiast pfnsht's Avatar
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    Update - car undersealed with Dinitrol and any rust treated. Car wasn't that bad underneath but wanted this done to keep it sweet.

    Bilstein B12 kit fitted (need better pics as my drive is a slope). I had new rubber bits and top mounts fitted too and a Hunter alignment following. The car is is completely different to drive and much more comfortable vs the old standard stuff which was pretty knackered to be fair.

    All work done by CSK Automotive is Hoddesdon. They are a Land Rover specialist but work on other cars. Chris is a great bloke and is into the VAG scene - has a lovely wrapped Audi R8.

    Before Pics
    before.JPG
    before1.JPG
    before2.JPG
    before3.JPG
    before4.JPG
    before5.JPG
    befpre.JPG

    After
    IMG_3177.JPG
    After.JPG
    after1.jpeg
    after4.jpeg
    aftyer2.jpeg
    Last edited by pfnsht; 1st December 2018 at 8:48 AM.

  7. #17
    Enthusiast pfnsht's Avatar
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    Next job to do is to extract injectors and send them off for a refurb. The car is becoming difficult to start when warm - cranks and cranks.

    So far to fault find I've - read codes (cam shaft sensor), replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, new FPR valve, new thermostat, new thermostat sensors, new rad fan switch (unrelated), new sparks, leads, coilpack (cracked), fuel pump relay and fuel filter. I'm left with fuel pump and injectors - feel free to chip in to help me solve!

    I'm discounting fuel pump at this stage: it starts fine when cold (3/4 cranks) and there is fuel in the lines when it's warm. My theory is the injectors are leaking. When it's cold the car is expecting a rich mixture and anything that has leaked in has probably evaporated. When the car is warm fuel has leaked into the cylinders and there's more fuel in there than the car expects so the fuel/air ratio is off and it's also expecting a leaner warm engine mixture. It will start when warm but takes 8-10 cranks and it slowly splutters into life.

    Other symptoms are an irregular slight rough idle and bit of a sooty tail pipe pointing to a rich mixture (injectors out of control maybe!).

    Found a chap that will service and clean them for about 85quid. Just need to find the time to get them out. Would rather buy some new ones but can't find any for sale at reasonable cost.
    1995 White VR6 CCGB Member 4303
    263 Cams & head refurb | 220 BHP Stealth remap| Miltek non res | Bilstein B12 | R32 Wishbone bushes | VT Mount

  8. #18
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ 1xshaunx1's Avatar
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    It’s not a problem you have on your own where it takes a lot of cranking when warm. There is a fix on here to do with a piece of hose and a non return valve on top of the pump. Does it help if you turn the ignition on give a sec turn it off then try to start it.

  9. #19
    Enthusiast pfnsht's Avatar
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    Intrigued with the fix. I'll search it out. Need to understand what's going on. The issue has got worse since I ran some injector cleaner through the fuel but that could be in my head as it's always done it!

    Edit - read a few threads. Don't understand how the one way valve can fix the issue but for the sake of a few quid and some pipe it's worth fitting. Would have thought the starting issue would be present on both hot and cold but can't find info on whether the pump works harder when cold to shove more fuel through.

    I wonder if it's worth replacing the fuel cap as well. Mine is original and I'm guessing doesn't seal as well so maybe it helps draw fuel back to the tank.
    Last edited by pfnsht; 2nd December 2018 at 10:20 PM.
    1995 White VR6 CCGB Member 4303
    263 Cams & head refurb | 220 BHP Stealth remap| Miltek non res | Bilstein B12 | R32 Wishbone bushes | VT Mount

  10. #20
    CF-oholic! fla's Avatar
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    I'm away at the moment but when im back send me your address and ill post out a check valve for the fuel tank to you if you're stuck. I've got a couple spare.
    Hasan
    VR6 Auto to manual conversion, beige leather, aircon, TT comps, blue dash lights & switches, Koni TA/Nothelle springs, OBD2, 264 cams, Schrick

    my car

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