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Thread: 1.8t refresh build

  1. #1
    Newbie foster9099's Avatar
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    1.8t refresh build

    I figured I would create this if nothing else as a place to document my build progress. If anyone actually looks at this then I guess that's a bonus. I must also note that I have never posted a build thread on any forum before. I am also not a mechanic, i'm just an enthusiast keen to learn with the help of more experienced friends.

    20181109_090812 2.jpg

    I bought this last year already converted to an AGU 20v 1.8t engine fully working and driving. I was using it regularly on the weekends but I became increasingly annoyed at the engine bay with its mess of wiring, caked on dirt and grime everywhere and most importantly the failing turbo seals causing plumes of smoke at idle. After purchasing my first house with a suitably sized garage I decided it was time to pull the car to bits to tidy up everything and fix anything worth fixing while I was in there.

    2.jpg

    The above photo is just before the car went in for the final time for a while.

    3.jpg

    With help we managed to get the engine out onto the crane in 2 and a half hours which doesn't seem too bad. All bolts and fixings bagged up and labelled as well as all electrical plugs taped up and labelled.

    10.jpg

    In order to access the wiring in its entirety the dashboard needed to be removed, this is where I found even more wiring mess that was all tangled up and several wiring looms spliced into. The splicing on the whole was actually done well but the car is fitted with a Clifford alarm in which the splicing seems questionable in places.

    I will keep posting images and information as I work through the car.

  2. #2
    ⋆⋆ CF Member ⋆⋆ easypops's Avatar
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    Well done, definitely keep the pictures and updates coming, I’m trying to do mine as well, I’ve been at it forever it seems but immin no real rush, plus life keeps getting in the way
    95 Classic Green Storm
    95 Flash Red VR6


    For those who understand, no explanation is needed.
    For those who do not understand, no explanation is possible

  3. #3
    Enthusiast
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    Yes very nice!

    Makes me want to get back out and working on mine!

  4. #4
    CF-oholic! seanl82's Avatar
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    Good effort so far! Your doing the right thing ensuring everything is labelled, tapes and bagged up to aid get ting it back gogether. Take lots of photos as well as it helps when referencing where everything is routed. I had the same issue with my looms, I ended up buying a complete set of good looms from a breaker as like you, remnants from alarms where they had been splice d in were terrible. The ICE install was far worse though with twisted wires uninsulated everywhere!
    Look forward to seeing the updated, keep up the good work!
    95 Classic Green VR6 - Jetex Cat Back|BMC CDA|VT mounts|Bilstein B12s|288mm front brakes|Mk4 Rears|Braided hoses|Daves16v shortshifter|Lupo wipers|Uprated headlight loom|
    http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=79984
    CCGB #3982

  5. #5
    Newbie foster9099's Avatar
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    Thanks for the positive comments. Ive been working of the car most of today and I think I have made some good progress. I'm mainly working on getting the loom sorted out, that involves:
    - pulling the old crusty tape off the wires
    - making sure that there is no damage to any of the wires
    - determining if there is any way of optimising the wiring loom route
    - determining the length needed for any branches for optimised loom routes
    - re-tape the loom

    IMG_20190127_140746.jpg

    You can see in the above image the tape is crusty and just falling off, this wire is likely part of the original Corrado loom.

    IMG_20190127_153610.jpg

    I decided to try and put wires up in the scuttle area where possible, I have a one piece scuttle panel so there is lots of room and is protected. Somehow I will have to try and get a rubber bung to fit this hole, I don't remember what actually went up here and whether there is already a bung somewhere. Does anyone know what this hole is actually for?

    IMG_20190127_181213.jpg

    Here's the loom up in the scuttle.

    IMG_20190127_181222.jpg

    Here's the loom coming back into the engine bay on the passenger side.

    IMG_20190127_181630.jpg

    I also got the passenger wing off, I already knew about a rust hole at the front of the sill so this was to prepare for the repair. Judging by the amount of dirt I think I need to invest in some arch liners.

    IMG_20190127_190124.jpg

    Here you can see my hole, this is after prodding and pulling at the metal surrounding it so I don't think I will have to cut much more out.

    Looks to me like its definitely worth pulling off the other wing as well to clean everything up and check for anymore rust, then probably a healthy coating of under seal on everything not visible. There is a few areas of surface rust in the engine bay that will get cleaned up, this means either trying to colour match the best I can or using some kind of durable black paint that will hide any imperfections in the paint job.
    Last edited by foster9099; 28th January 2019 at 10:31 AM.

  6. #6
    CF Nutter rado20vT's Avatar
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    Thats how I started my re-fresh nearly 5 years later its going back together

    Mine had the same rust at the bottom of the A pillars which I think was caused by a rust hole around the screen so could be worth checking yours
    Graham
    20v Turbo, Audi TT Leather, 17" BBS, 330mm front discs with Brembo;s, 256mm rear, Digital dash in development
    OEM++

  7. #7
    Newbie foster9099's Avatar
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    I haven't seen any other rust holes but it would definitely be worth checking, do you mean in the scuttle panel area? I really want to be able to drive it this summer so I'm going to concentrate on the engine and drivetrain parts to get it driving well. The rest can be done in my own time while still been able to drive it.

  8. #8
    Newbie foster9099's Avatar
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    I want to start trying to run my freshly wrapped loom in its final position but I thought id better give the panels a bit of a clean because they are caked on with oil and muck.

    17.jpg

    I started with the battery tray area, it was covered in a layer of dirt, which covered a layer of oil and grease, which covered patches of dried waxoyl. Nothing i had seemed to shift the waxoyl very quickly, white spirit and elbow grease seemed to be the only thing that worked but it still took a while. I think I probably spent an hour on this small section. Most of the rust is surface rust from scratches but as you can see there is one small rust hole next to the battery bracket that will need to be repaired. I think i'm going to have to drill out the spot welds for the battery bracket to get full access to the rust area. Once the hole is repaired I will probably just scuff up the area, remove surface rust and rattle can the area. Once the car is back together this area isn't very visible anyway. Halfords seem to do the correct paint code in their aerosols for £5.94 with a trade card which seems good value.

    18.jpg

    19.jpg

    After getting bored with cleaning i went back to wiring. Previously I had created a temporary relay loom to take power for the headlights directly from the battery. This was done with wired running directly to where they were needed using the only wire I had on hand, this made a functional but terrible looking mess. I always had the intention of tidying it up and now is the best time. I cut off the old crimps and crimped in new (plastic insulated and higher amp) wire and crimped using my new and much better ratchet crimps.

    20.jpg

    I used 3 relays in total, one for low beams, one for high beams and one for the fog lights. I never wired up the fogs before so I don't know if it will even benefit the fogs but I figured it couldn't hurt. I ran the wires around the loom that I put up in the scuttle to help keep it out of the way. I will tape the headlight loom separately for 2 reasons, 1 to keep my loom separated from the original loom, 2 because I already wrapped the original loom and I wasn't going to unwrap it again.

    18.jpg

    Jumping back into the car, I started to put the fuse box back together. I found that there is nowhere near enough room to fit all the wired behind the fuse box, I now understand why the fuse box was always hanging with the fuses facing downwards. The only reason i can think that its such a mess is due to the Clifford alarm system, as far as I can tell the 20v wiring is all in the engine way apart from a few that come through. I did my best at tidying it all up but inevitably in the wrapping I did trap a few wires luckily as you can see in the photo it seems to be just 2 ground wires that don't reach the earth post. I will probably just extend these rather than pulling everything back out.

  9. #9
    Newbie foster9099's Avatar
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    I decided to tackle my first rust hole. The battery tray seemed to be the easiest to tackle first. I drilled out the original spot welds for the battery bracket to reveal the extent of the rust.

    22.jpg

    I started by cutting the thin and rusty metal out as well as cleaning up other areas of surface rust.

    23.jpg

    I used zinc galvanising spray to cover up the bare metal, mainly for under the bracket to protect it from further rust once it is welded back in place. Zinc galvanising spray is weldable.

    24.jpg

    This is the new metal welded in place, anyone can look like a good welder if they can use a grinder. I did go over the bare metal in zinc spray after the image was taken.

    25.jpg

    26.jpg

    Here is the bracket spot welded back in place. I have test fitted the battery and it bolts down well.

  10. #10
    Newbie foster9099's Avatar
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    27.jpg

    I primed up the whole area around the battery bracket and tried some of the Dragon Green pearl paint from Halfords, the photo shows 1 coat which was maybe a little too heavy (try to ignore the runs). At the time of the photo the paint was still wet and the light was shining directly onto the new paint, The match isn't too bad but not perfect either, the old paint is darker but I hope once another coat is applied the match will be much closer. Another issue would be that the original paint is very old and tatty in the engine bay so that doesn't help the match. Im not too worried anyway as there is a lot going off in the engine bay to break up any slightly mis-matching colours, i probably wouldn't use the Halfords paint in the middle of an outer panel.

    28.jpg

    I gave the wheel arches a clean and they actually clean up nicely with the original paint largely intact. It looks like one of the previous owners had wheels big or wide enough to rub. I also managed to source some front wheel arch liners that will hopefully stop so much muck gathering up behind the wing.

    29.jpg

    I started cutting out the rust on the front of the passenger sill. From this I ended up working my way back straightening the sill and stripping off the loose underseal.

    30.jpg

    This is a patch of rust that I cut out further back in the passenger sill, it spans across the sill seam however the middle sheet seems largely unaffected. I cut out the metal on both sides of the sill and rust treated the center sheet.

    31.jpg

    I have started cleaning up all the muck for the while engine bay, this is the drivers side inner wing area before I began cleaning. I will take some pictures of the cleaned engine bay at a later date however this is what the drivers side used to look like as well.

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