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Thread: 1.8t refresh build

  1. #11
    Join Date
    15th October 2008
    West Yorkshire
    Nice progress mate

  2. #12
    I ran out of gas again for my welder. Currently i'm using the small disposable C02 Argon bottles but they don't last very long at all and at £12 it adds up quickly. I have been looking into converting to a larger bottle but i think more research is needed first.

    While I am out of gas I decided to paint the passenger side inner wing, it may be a bit early for this so I will have to try and protect it in the meantime but I think it looks pretty good.


  3. #13
    So while i'm still working on getting a better gas system for my welder I thought i'd get on with the interior. A couple of weeks ago I bought a black dashboard from an early car, for the price I paid it was worth a shot to see if I could make it work with all the bits from my late dash. I have read that the only difference is the metal frame, the late dash is deeper to accommodate the deeper storage compartment. From doing a bit of reading I have seem people suggesting drilling out the spot welds on that part of the frame but that seemed like too much messing about. After spending some time comparing the 2 dashboards side by side it seemed obvious to me that the metal frame is removable and almost identical between the 2 dashboards apart from the centre section.


    The frame is attached using some weird 9mm nuts and a few rivets.


    You can see circled in the above image the difference in the 2 frames. The late dash is the longer one at the top.


    Here is the late metal frame in my early dash, I put some silicone sealant between the frame and the dash to maybe help with rattles and creaks in the future.


    I used new rivets where the old rivets were, I will paint any that are on show black at a later time.


    I test fitted the dash in the car and it seems to fit perfectly, I just need to paint my demister vents and speaker grills as well as refit all of the HVAC pipes and the dash can be installed for good.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    15th October 2008
    West Yorkshire
    For gas contact BOC and ask if you can go on their 'Hobbyist' deal, the annual charge is about £50 and then you can get a bigger bottle, I get the Y size which last me 9-12 months and costs about £80

  5. #15
    Thanks but I got myself a rent free bottle from Adams gas at the weekend, what I actually needed was the regulator and a hose adaptor for my welder. I now have everything I need to start welding again.

  6. #16
    ⋆⋆ CF Member ⋆⋆
    Join Date
    11th May 2012
    Quote Originally Posted by foster9099 View Post
    Thanks but I got myself a rent free bottle from Adams gas at the weekend, what I actually needed was the regulator and a hose adaptor for my welder. I now have everything I need to start welding again.
    Sweet!!! Crack on then, and keep the photos coming - think I need to get some up of my work over the last few years!

  7. #17
    I haven't posted in a little while mainly because I was doing bits and bobs and not really taking many photos. I did manage to get the welding on the passenger sill done and I started to seal seal the welds as well as spreading it out to double up as underseal.


    This is a photo is where i'm at with the welding. The front is done all the way to the middle of the sill. While the car is in the garage forwards i'm concentrating on the front of the car. There will be a little bit of welding at the rear of the sill but that wont be for a while. As you can see there are parts further into the floor where i have undersealed. This is places where the original underseal had been disturbed, i wire wheeled it off and applied new underseal.


    I had taken the seats into the house to protect them from all the welding and grinding in the garage. Yesterday i thought i would have a go and finding out why the drivers seat bolster was sagging, I was expecting to have to find a replacement foam section or even try and make one.


    What I found was the foam to be in relatively good condition and it was in fact the metal support that was completely snapped at the welds.


    From another angle


    So I took the seat back down to the garage (They are not light)and welded the bracket back to the seat base. I used some metal sheet to protect the rest of the seat from the heat and any splatter.


    From another angle, it was really hard to get the mig torch down the back side of the bracket. I probably went overkill with the amount of weld but I figured that I don't want this to break again.


    A bit of galv spray to protect from corrosion


    Here is the seat all back together, its much better than before and a lot easier than I was expecting.

  8. #18

    I knew the drivers side inner wing was a bit rusty but over the weekend it went over it with a wire wheel on my grinder and it actually turned out to be a lot worse than I thought. I was able to jab a screwdriver through most of this section by hand which shows how weak a lot of the metal was. I actually pulled most of the metal out with pliers and then tidied up the edge with the grinder, I got carried away with it before I remembered to take a photo. Just after this photo I grinded back the rusty part in the foreground and managed to plug weld some of it as you can tell in the second photo.


    The length of that piece of sheet was the maximum width I had, there is still the gap in the foreground that needs to be plated over to finish the job. For the most part I think this fix will do fine even though its a bit ugly, it will be covered by the outer wing anyway.

  9. #19

    We went to the NEC Practical Classics show and I managed to find this for sale on one of the stands, My plan is to strip it and paint the body with the same Dragon Green colour match paint i've been using in the engine bay.


    I seal sealed the welds on the drivers side inner wing


    I started with the wire wheel on the drivers side sill and unfortunately found the inevitable rust hole, although nowhere near as bad as the passenger side. I think that most of the mess on the sills is caused by someone in the past jacking the car up in the wrong place causing damage to the original underseal.


    After getting bored or wire wheeling the underside I continued preparing the drivers side engine bay for paint


    Filler primer


    Then colour, this is the first coat and I ran out of paint. At the point this photo was taken the colour was still patchy, it looks much better now I just haven't got a photo yet.


    While waiting for the paint to dry I needed a job that didn't create any mess or dust. I managed to get more of the interior installed and its looking more like a car again. I'm still hoping to drive the car this summer.

  10. #20

    I pulled the sub-frame mainly to make it easier to remove the exhaust down pipe and to make it possible to replace the anti roll bar bushes, while the sub-frame is out I will be cleaning and painting everything.


    I used Gunk degreaser which is basically just kerosene and a jet wash to remove pretty much all the muck and grease that was on the sub-frame, ARB and steering rack. I did wire wheel most of the rust away where i could reach but I am painting with Hammerite type paint which can be painted over light rust anyway, plus these parts are mostly hidden when installed so I wasn't too worried.


    Here are all the parts painted up looking fresh.


    A close up of the sub-frame, brush marks are visible but again i'm not too worried at this stage, the point is mainly the muck and grease is gone and they will look clean and fresh for that little glimpse you get when looking into the engine bay.


    Here is the current state of the engine bay, I did pull the front cross member as well which I will give the same treatment as the sub frame. I cleaned the firewall with the Gunk kerosene because I was worried about masking for paint, the paint is actually in pretty good condition so I think I will just leave it as is for now.

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