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Thread: G60 owners ...please read this.

  1. #21
    CF Nutter Banana Man's Avatar
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    When mine snapped it took 2 of the exhaust valves with it. Luckily I managed to get 2 new valves for £12 each and got the valve seat re cut so they didn't leak and job was a goodun.

    For the sake of a £2 bolt just change it to be on the safe side and forgwet about it.

    I was a little ****ed off when mine broke coz 2 days before I had heard about henny's biting the dust, so I went and got one but hadn't had time to fit it, which was the next thing on my list of things to do!!!
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  2. #22
    CF-oholic!
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    can you just whip the old one off and fit a new one without having to set the timing again? i take it just remove the plastic cambelt cover?

  3. #23
    CF Nutter
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    riiiiight.... um yeah how did ure eat the valves they dont go down far enough to hit the piston....
    2.0L ABA G60 | P&P | Big Valves | Forged everything | 1.6L/rev lysholm | plenty of smiles

  4. #24
    Super Moderator Supercharged's Avatar
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    can you just whip the old one off and fit a new one without having to set the timing again? i take it just remove the plastic cambelt cover?
    Its the crank bolt dude - you only need to remove the small cover under the wheel arch...

    You need car in gear and someone hard on the brakes, and a torque wrench upto 200Nm I think...


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  5. #25
    CF Nutter
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    dont forget threadlock and yes you do need it for this one
    2.0L ABA G60 | P&P | Big Valves | Forged everything | 1.6L/rev lysholm | plenty of smiles

  6. #26
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Henny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by potatonet
    riiiiight.... um yeah how did ure eat the valves they dont go down far enough to hit the piston....
    WRONG! The G60 engine is an interference engine, get the timing wrong or drop too many teeth on the cambelt when it goes slack and valves WILL meet pistons...

    Having had one of these bolts effectively destroy my first G60 engine (3 valves and a piston damaged) at under 20mph while sat in traffic, I'm with Daz when he says to REPLACE THIS BOLT!!!

    For the couple of quid the bolt and washer will cost you and the 20 mins to fit it, it could save you the cost of a new engine/ engine rebuild... makes sense really doesn't it?!? :wink:

    The bolt should be replaced with one from a MKI Golf 1.8 GTI (DX engine code) which is NOT a stretch bolt, unlike the one in the G60 engine as standard. It's a direct replacement with only a small blob of thread lock and the washer needed to complete the replacement. The old bolt can be removed with a reasonable length ratchet by putting the car in gear and asking a mate to push like **** on the brake pedal as you loosen the bolt off. It really is THAT simple...
    H-YYU - '91 Pearl Grey G60... was 251.7 BHP SOLD
    J562DUB - Aqua blue G60 - RIP
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  7. #27
    CF Nutter
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    .. ok well I was wrong.. my timing was off 180 but I didnt eat any valves...., checked too.
    2.0L ABA G60 | P&P | Big Valves | Forged everything | 1.6L/rev lysholm | plenty of smiles

  8. #28
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Henny's Avatar
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    potatonet, cam timing? or just timing on the distributor? It's only the cam timing that'll eat your valves...
    H-YYU - '91 Pearl Grey G60... was 251.7 BHP SOLD
    J562DUB - Aqua blue G60 - RIP
    H714HKC - Tornado Red 1.8 16V - RIP

  9. #29
    CF Nutter
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    crank timing! hehehe.
    2.0L ABA G60 | P&P | Big Valves | Forged everything | 1.6L/rev lysholm | plenty of smiles

  10. #30
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Henny's Avatar
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    potatonet, you lucky sod! 180 degrees out on the crank normally eats at least one valve...
    H-YYU - '91 Pearl Grey G60... was 251.7 BHP SOLD
    J562DUB - Aqua blue G60 - RIP
    H714HKC - Tornado Red 1.8 16V - RIP

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