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Thread: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

  1. #1
    Super Moderator Supercharged's Avatar
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    312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Been wanting to do this conversion for a while as I got some calipers / carriers cheap on eBay and also bought some re-drilled 312mm discs from Badger5 - 2 existing holes used but made smaller with an insert and 2 new ones drilled.

    I tried my 16" wheels on Dinkus's car a while ago to check clearance and it was close but fine so this also made sense to do even thought it's not a straight forward conversion... The other reason to do this was I am running a MK4 TDI engine which is putting out around 150BHP and these are the brakes that would be fitted to the same model of Golf. I'm already running the MK4 rear calipers so it makes sense to do the fronts too.

    Now, on a VR6 (Plus suspension) you need to space out the carrier by 6mm to get the offset right, I originally hoped the carriers would just fit on a 4 stud (Base suspension) but found they needed approx 4mm taking off the mating surface to match the offset of the discs which makes sense as 'Widetrack' = 10mm per side. I got the carriers machined by a local metal precision place for £30 which I thought wasn't bad at all!

    [attachment=2:37]DSCF2207.JPG[/attachment:37]

    Attachment 35025

    [attachment=1:37ypmgyg]DSCF2210.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    The Later ATE calipers that are used in this conversion use 54mm Pistons, the same as the 256/280mm Lucas / Girling setup which is handy, this means the 22.2mm master cylinder will be fine and won't give a really long pedal like the Girling-60 twin pot conversion or Brembo's which really require the slightly larger ABS master cyl or the 25mm ones from the Audi UR Quattro.

    I think one of the best features of the Corrado is the progressive brake feel and this keeps it whilst giving a bit more braking power due to the massive pads and less chance of fade due to heat because of the much larger and wider discs.

    I decided to also change the Master Cylinder for a new one as the car had now done 250k miles and it being the one component of the braking system that could fail and leave you with no brakes whatsoever! This was actually much easier than I thought with all the union nuts coming off fine, I drained the brake fluid bottle and also replaced this along with the line to the clutch master - a bit awkward but fairly simple job to do and made sense as I was also changing the front brake lines and calipers so would loose fluid anyway.[attachment=19:37ypmgyg]DSCF2219.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Some of the pics are in a bit of a random order as I trial fitted the brakes a couple of weeks ago but found the carriers were a little too close to the disc on the outside of the car so decided to remove to more material from the inside of the carrier to give a bit more clearance and margin for error...

    I also found one of my wheel bearings had a slight amount of play (this was noticed when the disc started rubbing the carrier at certain steering angles!!) - I was surprised by this as the 2 fronts were replaced by Stealth less than 40k miles ago but I did know they were non-genuine bearings plus the car is putting out approx 320Nm of torque - also maybe not helped by 10 laps of Castle Coombe the other week

    After undoing the hub nuts I found that bearing had practically fallen apart and the other side was also completly knackered - maybe a good test this to undo the hubnut to check these as the other side had no detectable play with a bar under the wheel before hand so probably would have also passed an MOT like that

    Was impressed with how well the 250k mile hubs came up after 5 mins with a wire brush

    [IMG]DSCF2169.JPG[/IMG]

    Obviously I had them blasted before the new (VAG) bearings were pressed in but always suprised at how well nearly 20 year old parts come up! Decided against powder coating for these as it's a bit thick for a part which has so many other bits bolted to it and the paint may crack as stuff is done up.

    [attachment=17:37ypmgyg]DSCF2171.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Used a Zinc primer then a heat resistant Plasti-Kote - hopefully this will last as well as OEM but only time will tell!

    [attachment=16:37ypmgyg]DSCF2180.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Stripping everything down was easy, already had brakes apart numerous times on this car and a Snap-On impact wrench helps get all the suspension stuff off easily!

    When I did the wishbones I found bent drop links, due to the car being stupidly low I think, these are now fine but found both Ball Joint pinch bolts to be bent!

    Think this is due to me seriously overtightening them last time as I was having issues with them wearing out which again was due to the low suspension I had before I think... Torque for these should be 50Nm and I think they were well over 100 as I couldn't undo by hand easily and had to use the gun

    [attachment=15:37ypmgyg]DSCF2183.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Hub off....

    [attachment=14:37ypmgyg]DSCF2184.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Notice the bottle jack used to keep the wishbone at that point - this is because I used a camber gauge to keep things roughly in check - will still get proper alignment done before I put the next pair of tyres on though.

    [attachment=13:37ypmgyg]DSCF2185.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Hub looking nice and new, all threads all taped / restored to get rid of the excess paint - that bolt in the pic should be in the ABS sensor hole to keep the crud out. (non-ABS car)

    [attachment=12:37ypmgyg]DSCF2189.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Suspension bolts plus the new bits you get in the wheel bearing kit - you also get a torx screw for the brake disc which I can't use due to them being re-drilled and also a new hub nut but I am using the MK3/Plus ones with the built in washer. Small tube of grease for the CV splines too.

    [attachment=11:37ypmgyg]DSCF2190.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Everything back in place ready to be alligned and torqued up, Suspension strut nuts to 95Nm, Ball Joint 50Nm, Track rod 35Nm and Hub Nut 265Nm (car on ground for final torque) and you must use at least new nuts with all of these.

    [attachment=10:37ypmgyg]DSCF2192.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Copper grease used on all bolts and mating faces

    [attachment=9:37ypmgyg]DSCF2194.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Camber gauge - set adjustable bit to 0 before removing hub and then try to get to the same setting while doing up the strut nuts (these are the only things that should affect camber with what I have removed as I've not touched the 3 Ball Joint to Wishbone bolts. Picture also shows the Ball Joint tool you need to undo the track rod ends without messing up the thread or ripping the boot.

    [attachment=8:37ypmgyg]DSCF2196.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    MK4 Brake splash shields (to protect brakes from water and grease from a CV boot failure) - I thought these would fit and they clear the ball joint ok but require a 7mm hole drilled where the red dot is, also on an ABS car you would need to cut across where I have put the red line for the ABS sensor to clear. Apart from that thay are a good fit!

    [attachment=7:37ypmgyg]DSCF2199.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Always amazes me how many tools are needed for just working on such a small area of the car!!

    [attachment=6:37ypmgyg]DSCF2200.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Goodridge hoses with stainless ends - I actually fitted these with the calipers a couple of weeks ago... The Stainless ends are a must IMO and worth paying the extra for - the 4 year old ones I took off the car were corroded worse that 10-12 year old VAG ones. Goodridge should really make these standard like on the Bike kits they do.

    [attachment=5:37ypmgyg]DSCF2203.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]
    [attachment=4:37ypmgyg]DSCF2205.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Still looks quite small in the Corrado arch!

    [attachment=3:37ypmgyg]DSCF2206.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]

    Carriers trial fitted again before taking material off the inner part of the left hand side to give more clearance - will see how these go before getting them blasted and painted. Carrier bolts done up to 125Nm and I used the standard Corrado ones - a bit long but fine for a non abs car.

    [attachment=0:37ypmgyg]DSCF2214.JPG[/attachment:37ypmgyg]
    Last edited by Supercharged; 3rd March 2016 at 10:07 AM.


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  2. #2
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ emu's Avatar
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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Very helpful guide
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  3. #3
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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Superb work and superb information dude.. really good read!

    2001 BMW E39 530d SE Touring (Black) | 1999 BMW E39 523i SE (with Sport Pack) Saloon (Black) | Ex-Corrado Owner

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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud


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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    bookmarked,thnks.
    92 G60.

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  6. #6

    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    how did you get on with clearance on the carrier?
    WANTED wheels-16x8 and/or lightweight 16's. Throttle bodies for 16v. 2.0 block 16v tuning bits.

  7. #7
    Super Moderator Supercharged's Avatar
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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Quote Originally Posted by rolex
    how did you get on with clearance on the carrier?
    Hi mate - how do you mean?

    I had to remove 3mm from the mating face of the carrier - this is shown in the first pic and I also filled away some material in the bit where the disc sits to make it more even side to side.


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  8. #8

    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Carriers trial fitted again before taking material off the inner part of the left hand side to give more clearance - will see how these go before getting them blasted and painted.

    sorry, i thought you were going to see how you got on with the clearance? but i guess its right and know need for adjustment.

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  9. #9
    Super Moderator Kevin Bacon's Avatar
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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Quote Originally Posted by Supercharged
    I also found one of my wheel bearings had a slight amount of play (this was noticed when the disc started rubbing the carrier at certain steering angles!!) - I was surprised by this as the 2 fronts were replaced by Stealth less than 40k miles ago but I did know they were non-genuine bearings plus the car is putting out approx 320Nm of torque - also maybe not helped by 10 laps of Castle Coombe the other week
    I think VW have been reducing the quality of things again. I did my rear bearings with the 280 rear discs 2 years ago and they're f'cked already - groaning loudly at 70mph. Fairly sure the fronts are f'cked too as like yours, the discs are rubbing on things at certain steering angles - and they were done about 20K ago.

    So if I was to undo a hub nut and jack it up, can you tell if the bearing's fubar'd without taking it all apart?
    Did have: 94 Corrado R32
    Now have: 2004 Golf R32

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    Super Moderator Supercharged's Avatar
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    Re: 312mm Brakes on a 4 Stud

    Quote Originally Posted by kevhaywire

    So if I was to undo a hub nut and jack it up, can you tell if the bearing's fubar'd without taking it all apart?
    These were schitty old FAG bearings from GSF Kev, new VAG ones are still fine...

    ... yeah basically, mine was fine as far as an 'MOT' check went - no detectable play until I undid the hub nut and the hub itself just wobbled about, both sides were shot to bits!

    If you are going to do yours again I would get 2 spare hub carriers, have them blasted like I did above, get new brearings pressed in then paint and you could also fit the tie rod flip kit while you're at it.


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