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Thread: Ant's VR6 - back on the road

  1. #11
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ v8rumbler's Avatar
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    Good luck this weekend!!


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    16v TSR::Supersprint::Miltek::Vibratechnics::Weitec::C ult Society::K&N

  2. #12
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    Well, it's been a long weekend wrestling with the car. A battle of wills... Ended in a draw.

    I started at 10am on Saturday morning. I got the bumper and slam panel off okay, and the radiator bolts came out in the end with the help of the dremmel.

    Unfortunately almost all of the thermostat housing bolts rounded, which held me up for a while. The crack pipe itself came out with little persuasion, though the end had disintegrated in the block. Dremmel time again to clean up the block connector.

    Getting the crack pipe in was a bit of a struggle due to the corrosion. I rebuilt the new thermostat hosuing and eventually got it on, but the seal between the crack pipe and block looked distorted. So off it all came again and I replaced the seal. On went the rad, and all the hoses... finally ready for testing!

    Testing didn't go well. I started to fill the system with water, and immediately water started dripping out of the new housing. So off it all came again. I put some bathroom sealant in the leaky part, and put it all back together yet again. This time I started to fill from the rad pipe before putting the radiator on, so I could test it was holding the water... this time it was fine, so on went the rad and I topped up with coolant. Finally ready to start her up

    She started first time, and I ran her up to temperature, trying to bleed the system as I went. The thermostat opened when it should have done, but the fans stayed worryingly silent, so I gave up when the water was up to 105 degrees.

    With the front of the car off, I decided to have a go at fitting the schrick. It went pretty well, though I wish I'd have done it before putting the rad back on. With darkness drawing in and with no lights in the lockup, I decided to call it a day. I also needed to look into the fan problem and where to connect the last Schrick vac house.

    ---------- Post added at 11:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 PM ----------

    Today, I started really early. I was up at the lockup for 7.45, agian full of optimism.

    I tried the fan by shorting the thermostat switch plug, and it came on like it should, which is kind of good as it narrows it down to an airlock or rad stat. I'd also worked out where the last schrick vac pipe went, so I connected it up, and braced myself for the big switch on

    She refused to start. She just turned over and over, and I could smell the fuel, so that was one of the triangle of fire ruled out :-) I checked and checked again, and found the problem - the big intake hose for the throttle body wasn't on properly - it seemed attached at the top but there was a gaping hole in the bottom. I resecured it and tried again, but nothing. So off came the manifold and I tested for spark. Plugs were covered in fuel but I cleaned up the first one, turned it over, and got a spark, along with an explosion as the fuel in the engine shot out of the lower manifold. I cleaned up the rest of the plugs in the front bank, put everything back together, and.... hurrah!... the sweet sound of the VR6!

    The coolant level was pretty high, but the header tank was soon empty, so I kept it topped up. Once the level stabilised, I put the cap back on and let the system get up to pressure. And then the fans came on at 100 degress - more success!

    Making reasonable progress I decided to try fitting my new Koni TAs and H&Rs. Having done the rear bump stops recently, I was confident that the rears would come off okay, so I started on the fronts. The hub bolts were tough, but they loosened up eventually. Then I got to the top mounts.. problem was I didn't have the right tool to get it off! I gave up - I was already a little pushed for time anyway.

    So time to rebuild the front end... Everything went back together pretty well, and I was ready to roll after an hour or so. It was getting into the late afternoon now, so I decided to crack on with a couple of other jobs. I replaced my black tunnel trims with the beige bits I'd been collecting, then gave the car a wash. I kept the engine running while I dried it so it would be up to temp and ready for a test drive when I had done. Looking good, and I was looking forward to what the schrick had in store!

    Then disaster... I noticed a small plume of steam coming from under the bonnet. Great. What was the problem now? I took a look and it seemed to be coming from the top of the radiator. I wished, hoped and prayed it was just a bit of water left over from my various water drops over the past two days, but the steam smelt like coolant, and was coming from a specific point. I checked the coolant level, and though it was a tad low, it was stable, so I decided to take it for a test drive and see how it went.

    The water temp behaved itself, though I swear the heater is much hotter now. I checked when I got home, and the coolant level was still the same, and the steam seemed to have gone. I haven't had a chance to fully test the Schrick yet, but there is some serious grunt low down now!

    Another problem manifested itself on the test drive though - there seems to be a whistling coming from the engine - it's more pronnounced on overrun, but it does it all the time. At first I thought it was the ISV, but now I think it's coming from between the Schrick and lower manifold. Now I think back, I don't remember torquing the bolts up properly, and I left the bottom-left bolt out because it was a different shape. I'll need to get it fixed within the next couple of days as it's really loud, and very noticable to people in the street. Hopefully it is just the bolts that need tightening.

    So here we are after a whole weekend of work. Ass I said - I think it's a draw. Really not looking forward to the replay as I'm going to have to drain the system again and strip down the front end again to change the radiator.

    At least the car is running again now... I declared the Schrick on the insurance and it cost a whopping £10 extra, so I'll take that!
    1995 VW Corrado VR6 Classic Green - Koni T/A + H&R springs, BMC CDA, Jetex resonated stainless exhaust, Climatronic, 288mm brakes

  3. #13
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    New rad is £240ish inc VAT from VW.

    Hell of a lot of money.

    It arrives on Wednesday, along with new rad bolts and rad fan switch (£26!)

    I'm just dreading which part of the cooling system will fail next... at least the matrix was replaced recently
    1995 VW Corrado VR6 Classic Green - Koni T/A + H&R springs, BMC CDA, Jetex resonated stainless exhaust, Climatronic, 288mm brakes

  4. #14
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    A small update...

    I've not collected the rad from VW yet. I've done 120 miles since the weekend - I checked the water level a couple of days ago and it was right on the money, but I need to check again. No warning light yet though, so it can't be too bad. I'm going on holiday in the car next week, and going to visit the folks this weekend, so the rad will have to wait until I get back.

    I've had a play with the Schrick now and I like it a lot :-) It flies from about 2.5k rpm and it sounds better too. I was expecting a massive flat spot at 4k rpm having read other people's experiences, but it wasn't too bad. Still want to get some Schrick 268s and a remap when I can afford it though.

    The biggest surprise has to be the solid mount I fitted. The car feels so connected now - it feels tighter in the corners and tighter on the power, and is just so much better to drive. I haven't really noticed an increase in vibrations, so all is good!

    I'm picking up some new wheels at the weekend too...
    1995 VW Corrado VR6 Classic Green - Koni T/A + H&R springs, BMC CDA, Jetex resonated stainless exhaust, Climatronic, 288mm brakes

  5. #15
    Newbie little andrew's Avatar
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    Slow down a bit! Your putting the rest of us to shame

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by little andrew View Post
    Slow down a bit! Your putting the rest of us to shame
    When it's all fixed I'll slow down!

    May be a long wait...

    I looked into the whistling the other day. Some of the manifold bolts were loose, but it wasn't that. I narrowed it down to the left-front of the engine bay, and it dawned on me that it was one of the aux pullleys - it actually turned out to be the tensioner. It squeaks constantly, but you can only hear it on idle and overrun as it is otherwise droned out by the induction noise from the airbox

    I took the tensioner off and gave the bearing a spray with some grease - I needed to quieten it down as it was embarassing to drive. It's quieter now, though not silent. Looks like another part to replace...

    I also checked the water today and it was almost at the bottom of the header tank, so there is a leak from somewhere. The car is also leaving water patches after being parked up. They appear to be from right at the front, so I still think the radiator is to blame (I've now collected the new one from VW, and my wallet feels so much lighter..). I've decided to change the water pump too - I'm getting tired of refilling with coolant now, so surely once the rad and water pump are done, there's nothing left to go wrong with the cooling system?

    The good news is that the crack pipe and thermostat housing appear to be bone dry.
    1995 VW Corrado VR6 Classic Green - Koni T/A + H&R springs, BMC CDA, Jetex resonated stainless exhaust, Climatronic, 288mm brakes

  7. #17
    CF Nutter VW_OwneR_85's Avatar
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    good stuff, im kinda going through the same thing, picked up a banger last week,already replaced the following.
    :-new leads :-plugs:-rotor arm:-bonnet cable:-oil and filter change:-oil cooler seals:-alternator belt:-rear discs and bearings:-rocker gasket,

    hopefully this week i can get my mk4 golf rear calipers on and finnaly have a hand brake,{where i live you need one}
    also picked up some mk4 golf steel wheels on ebay,which im getting banded, still unsure of the dimensions but standard there 15" 6j and have a 38et, might get a tyre on and see how it fits?,

  8. #18
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    I had a revalation whilst lying in bed this morning - it dawned on me that the car was leaving the water patches on the driver's side, and not on the passeger side, which was where the radiator leak was. The plan today was to clean the car and then head off to my folks, before heading to Wales on Monday on holiday. I thought I'd better check to see where the leak was coming from, just to put my mind at ease. I noticed the patch was under the water pump, and the frame under the water pump was dripping. It all makes sense now - the leak which I assumed as a weep of oil on the driver's side of the engine, was actually a mix of coolant and grime. The squeak of the belts and pulleys was probably the coolant interfering with the operation of the aux belt.

    I quickly realised that the car would be lucky to make it to my folks' 50 miles away, let alone a 500 mile round trip to Wales. I had to cancel my plans. A nice relaxing day in the pub with the family and friends would give way to a day at the lockup yet again.

    I headed to GSF as soon as it opened for the pump, and opted for the more expensive of the two on offer. I checked and it had a metal impellor. A VW one would have been better, but options are limited on a Saturday morning.

    Once at the lockup, I checked the water again - it had used half a litre in about 10 miles - it was getting worse. I wasted no time stripping down the front end again - I decided to change the radiator at the same time. It's amazing how easily it all comes off when you know where all the bolts and screws are, and you don't have to deal with seized bolts. 30 minutes later, I had a naked VR



    With the radiator off, it was pretty easy to spot the damage. Other than this the radiator was fine, such a shame that it's scrap now



    Next I turned my attention to the water pump. I did the front mount last week, so the bolt for that came out easily. The rear mount was a bit more tricky. I took the airbox and pipe off for easier access, but I didn't have an extension long enough to clear the bay. Luckily I had just enough room to crack the nut loose, and with a little more perseverence, it was off. I jacked up the engine to give me access to the water pump. Out in the open, the leaks were all too obvious.



    The pulley came off easily enough, and the bolts for the pump weren't a problem. However then I hit my first problem of the day - the pump had somehow managed to seize itself into the block! I tried to get a hammer and chisel behind it to chisel it off, but just ended up breaking the pump casing. Next I tried cutting into the casing to get better leverage, but soon realised that wasn't going to work. Finally I decided to throw caution to the wind and just hammered away at the pulley bracket. Slowly it started to tease out, and eventually it was free

    Old pump



    The impellors were pretty good given they were plastic, and given the condition of the rest of the pump



    New pump now ready to go on



    I slipped a little bathroom sealant onto the o-ring just to be on the safe side. The pump in, bolts in, pulley on, belt on.

    Next I put on the new radiator - really straight forward, and it even came with the top elbow which I wasn't expecting! I also fitted a new VW fan switch. All went on okay (except I forgot to put the fans and rad cowling on the first time - d'oh!), and I was ready to start filling.

    Again, I put in about 2-3 litres of water first to make sure it was all leak free under normal pressure. Then I topped up with a couple of bottles of G12. Time for the big switch on! She started fine, and I let it run to temperature, while bleeding the system. Thermostat came on as normal. The fans were a bit late again, kicking in at about 100 degrees but I put this down to air in the system while I was bleeding. I had the radiator box under the car to collect any leaking coolant, and checked it when I switched off the engine. Not a drop!! Hurrah!

    Bleeding the system under Bentley's watchful gaze..



    I put the front back together in no time, even put a bit of copper grease on the bumper bolts this time, and torqued them according to Bentley.

    She drove home fine. The whistling seems to have gone too now (I cleaned the belt and pulley while doing the water pump). Hopefully the cooling saga is now over!
    1995 VW Corrado VR6 Classic Green - Koni T/A + H&R springs, BMC CDA, Jetex resonated stainless exhaust, Climatronic, 288mm brakes

  9. #19
    CF Nutter VW_OwneR_85's Avatar
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    awesome job dude, very inspirational!! i want to replace my thermostat houseing soon, how easy is it to remove the front like you have? cheers.

  10. #20
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    Aide - I'm starting to think that the tensioner is fine now the water pump is fixed.I think the coolant was getting into the pulleys and belts causing slippage and squealing. so far the tensioner has been quiet since the water pump was done.

    I had considered just changing the bearing, but would have replaced the whole thing at the right price. £120 is not the right price though so I'll opt for a bearing replacement if it does need changing!

    VR_owner - Like most jobs on the Corrado, it could be really easy, but then you're stuck if you come across a seized bolt. When I took it all apart the second time,it took me about 30 minutes, as I knew where every bolt and screw was, and they all came out easy as they'd been out the week before. The first attempt took about 2 hours though, and to be honest I still didn't hit any major problems.

    The biggest two dangers with the job are the radiator bolts into the slam panel seizing/shearing, or the bumper bolts seizing. I was lucky with the bumper bolts as it looks like the bumper was replaced recently, but on both MK2 Golfs I've had, which has the same bumper set up, I've run into problems.

    For the radiator bolts, a dremmel will be useul to cut the bolts off if they give you trouble, and new bolts are pence from VW

    For the bumper bolts, I would soak them in WD40,or even better - Plusgas the night before to give them a chance of coming off. I have a 4 foot long 1/2" drive breaker bar to get the bolts loose, and a set of Irwins on standby. The biggest risk with the bumper is snapping the captive nut on the bumper bracket that the bolt screws into as you'll then need to access the nut while it is sill in the chassis leg.

    Once the rad bolts and bumper bolts are out, you're pretty much home and dry!
    1995 VW Corrado VR6 Classic Green - Koni T/A + H&R springs, BMC CDA, Jetex resonated stainless exhaust, Climatronic, 288mm brakes

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