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Thread: Wiring in electric recaros

  1. #1
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Portent's Avatar
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    Wiring in electric recaros

    I believe all I need to to is supply a live with 20 amp fuse and then an earth. Is this correct?

    My fusebox has a couple of 20 amp lines already. So would it be safe to splice off of one of these (with appropriate connectors, not just taped together), provide an in-line fuse, and then earth to any part of the bodywork?

    Or have I got it so badly wrong that I should just call someone who knows what they are doing

    This is for electric movement, they are not heated.

    Thanks.
    Storm grey VR6 | BBS RX2 16" | Milltek | D&G cams and map | Black cloth Recaros | Audioscape | Huge grin

  2. #2
    CF Nutter RW1's Avatar
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    No, dedicated 20 amp fuse as per this.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.ph...460#post737460

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  3. #3
    CF-oholic! KADVR6's Avatar
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    well thats exactly how i wired in my electric edition 1 recaros in my mk2 golf, worked just fine for years.
    need another corrado in my life, much less hassle than a woman.

  4. #4
    CF Nutter RW1's Avatar
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    What else was on the fused circuit and were they all switched on and it still worked?

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  5. #5
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Portent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RW1 View Post
    No, dedicated 20 amp fuse as per this.... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.ph...460#post737460

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    I appreciate the original wiring had a dedicated line but is it absolutely necessary? Do you know if it was dedicated for a reason, or just because it was an optional extra?


    Quote Originally Posted by KADVR6 View Post
    well thats exactly how i wired in my electric edition 1 recaros in my mk2 golf, worked just fine for years.
    Do you mean you spliced from an existing 20 amp line, so you had one 20 amp supply shared between two 'things'?

    Oddly mine does have a 20 amp fused connection at the point I would expect the factory installed electrical seats to be wired. But I'm not sure what it's feeding. It does have some very original looking german writing on a label and I'm half wondering if it had electric seats at one point in the past and they have just been cut off somewhere.
    Storm grey VR6 | BBS RX2 16" | Milltek | D&G cams and map | Black cloth Recaros | Audioscape | Huge grin

  6. #6
    CF Nutter RW1's Avatar
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    Optional extras do get fitted to other fuses, so its more the full electrical load on a fuse being overloaded the circuit fuse as I posted above.

    If you are going to splice a wire at the fuse box, you may as well pick up off the back of the fuse box on a battery spare connection as in the link and use the separate fuse.


    If its that yellow 20 amp fuse on the very top of the plate, thats the Lambda probe heating.

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    Last edited by RW1; 28th August 2011 at 2:41 PM.

  7. #7
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Portent's Avatar
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    Ok thanks. I'll go with the dedicated line. Yes it was the 20 amp at the top of the plate.

    And can I just earth anywhere?
    Storm grey VR6 | BBS RX2 16" | Milltek | D&G cams and map | Black cloth Recaros | Audioscape | Huge grin

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    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Portent's Avatar
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    Popped to the dealer yesterday to get the plug to fit into the back of the busbar. Apparently they are now on back order and it may take a couple of weeks to get them The weird thing is that I took the part number from another plug that was in use on the back and it apparently came from a car with air con (according to the dealer).

    Anyway... the seats are 90% in the right position so fine for driving until the part arrives. But if I want to adjust them then could I just connect them to my battery charger and get power that way? I'd obviously wire in a 20 amp fuse if I did it.
    Storm grey VR6 | BBS RX2 16" | Milltek | D&G cams and map | Black cloth Recaros | Audioscape | Huge grin

  9. #9
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Portent's Avatar
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    Ok, I finally wired these in today. It was easier than I expected and I ran a new connection off the back of the fuse box, with an in-line 20 amp fuse, as recommended. It worked first time and the car has lasted several hours without bursting into flames. So thanks fot the advice.

    Now my question...

    I don't need the ignition turned on to move the seats. Is this correct, or have I taken a feed off the wrong part of the fuse box? I had assumed that I would need the ignition turned on for there to be power. Obviously it only uses power when I move a switch but I thought I'd check if I've done it right.
    Storm grey VR6 | BBS RX2 16" | Milltek | D&G cams and map | Black cloth Recaros | Audioscape | Huge grin

  10. #10
    CF Nutter RW1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portent View Post
    Now my question...

    I don't need the ignition turned on to move the seats. Is this correct, or have I taken a feed off the wrong part of the fuse box? I had assumed that I would need the ignition turned on for there to be power. Obviously it only uses power when I move a switch but I thought I'd check if I've done it right.
    As per my link in my 1st post......
    The supply before fusing in the factory build is taken off connectior Y position, pin 1. This is a connection to busbar 30 which is the battery supply busbar.
    So OK!

    .

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