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Thread: Replacement Fuel Pump - VR6, 2015 and onwards

  1. #21
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Keyo's Avatar
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    Agree I want it to be 4 bar. I have fitted a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator and the whole point of me doing it is to get the mixture adaption fault code 00561 deleted for good. I was tempted to get the VDO but it was nearly four times the cost.

    I will ring Bosch on Tuesday and try and get it out of them and post on here, also if it is 4 bar post how it went getting it fitted to a VDO housing.

  2. #22
    I looked into this a while ago, and the Pierburg pump that came with the car seems to be listed as a 3 bar, 4 bar and 3→4 bar depending on where you look. I doubt you need a 4 bar pump, and even if you find one listed as such, perhaps it is or perhaps it isn't. I don't think VR6 engines require a ton of pressure, and how the pump pressure is listed is also up for debate. Is 3/4 bars referring to a minimum, a maximum, or average pressure? I've never been able to find out and it doesn't seem to matter much as far as I can tell. I was looking at one listing and it said the maximum fuel pressure for the 3 bar pumps was 4 bar, and the maximum for the 4 bar is 3.8?!? So there's not a lot of clarity out there.
    Last edited by a_riot; 22nd April 2019 at 1:57 AM.

  3. #23
    CF Nutter fendervg's Avatar
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    Pierburg and VDO were both fitted at different times, in 3 and 4 bar versions. I've pressure tested both a 2.8 AAA and a 2.9 ABV and they run at different nominal pressures, so definitely a 4 bar pump for the 2.9 engines. The engine info sheet from VW for the 2.9 also specifies a 4 bar, as does ETKA. What throws a lot of people off is the info in the Bentley manual - this is for an American spec car, so essentially the same 2.8 engine as the Golf VR6, hence 3 bar.

    I'm not really sure why, but I imagine the fuel maps and injector timings would be different to accommodate this and maybe VW were hoping to extract a bit more power from the 2.9 (although later 2.8 OBD2 cars make nearly the same as a stock ABV) - not saying it can't be done, but might need a few other bits to be changed to run right.
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  4. #24
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Keyo's Avatar
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    I will be contacting Bosch tomorrow, just hope they have a definitive answer whether it is indeed a 4 bar.

  5. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Keyo View Post
    I will be contacting Bosch tomorrow, just hope they have a definitive answer whether it is indeed a 4 bar.
    I'll be surprised if you get a definitive answer. Here is the excerpt from a Pierburg catalog. You can see a 3 bar pump is listed for the 2.9 engine.



  6. #26
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Keyo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info Riot, what I'm asking Bosch, the pump your manufacturing what bar is it, because for a late model VR6 you want a 4 bar.

  7. #27
    CF Nutter fendervg's Avatar
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    I just did the replacement on my car this afternoon - original pump was a Pierburg, replaced with a VDO one and matching sender for the fuel gauge.

    Fairly straightforward - when you get the metal cover off the tank hole, disconnect the loom and run the engine until it dies to empty the lines and then the lock ring can be undone with a large flat and a mallet by tapping it gently counter clockwise. Most of the hose clamps won't be reusable, so make sure you have some replacements handy.

    The spade connectors for power to the pump itself will swap straight over, they are different sizes for earth and +12V, so you can't mix them up. The sender ones you will need to cut and splice - I made up some short leads with spades on the end and crimped them to the two existing wires - the Pierburg unit has the wires connected inside the sender, so no way of getting them out easily - I don't think it matters which way round they go.

    Hardest part was mounting the new pump into the lock ring in the tank floor, and then fitting the seal on the white cap - a little bit of petrol helps, and the easiest way was to peel the seal off the cap, fit it to the metal opening and the gently lower the lid into place - if it's not on right the lock ring won't go on properly.

    Reconnect, run engine and check for leaks with the metal cover still off, if good, stick it back on and job done.

    It might just be in my head, but the car definitely feels stronger now on a short test drive with the new pump fitted, and seems to run happier overall - I guess the 25 year old original pump was probably pushing on a bit and might not have been keeping a steady flow. Time will tell.
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  8. #28
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Keyo's Avatar
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    New fuel pump another bit of reliability that's what you need in a Rado ha.
    Last edited by Keyo; 23rd April 2019 at 1:11 PM.

  9. #29
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆ Keyo's Avatar
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    Right just to confirm I spoke to Bosch earlier and I have returned the pump as it is 3 bar even though Euro car parts advertise it a 4 bar.

    I believe this is the correct pump ? If so anyone know anywhere to get the same one cheaper. ?

    Cheers.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VDO-Fuel-...0AAOSwwJJcoDwx

    Here is the cheapest place to get the sender that I could find, and good service arrived in a few days.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUI...frcectupt=true
    Last edited by Keyo; 27th May 2019 at 2:51 PM.

  10. #30
    CF Nutter fendervg's Avatar
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    Yeah, that's the correct one, identical to the one I fitted yesterday. The cost price over here in Ireland was €185.00, ao I don't think you will get it much cheaper, but worth checking around. Have a look on German eBay with that part number.

    If you can get the pump body insert on it's own, it's very easy to swap over but I wasn't able to find one.

    The sender unit on your old one should be a white plastic rectangle with the float arm attached that clips into the body of the swirl pot, you'll need to swap this over.
    Last edited by fendervg; 23rd April 2019 at 12:46 PM.
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