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Thread: 1.8 kr overfuelling loads

  1. #1

    1.8 kr overfuelling loads

    hi , newbie so appologise to come in at the deep end
    bought my first corrado(non runner) guy said it had beenn running fine then taken off the road for some body work
    so in my wisdom i bought it blind on his word

    got the car back home ,bought a new battery and tried to start the car , car just turned and turned
    so made the mistake of buy then try
    started with plugs,leads,rotar,dizzy then coil,all replaced brand new
    car still exactly the same turns and turns
    so checked the spark and all was fine ,very strong spark. noticed the new plugs were soaked in fuel so thought i best check the injectors and fuel side.
    started with fuel pump relay then
    removed each injector and done a spray test all seemed good.
    then checked the 5th cold start injector and this also seemed ok
    had all the timing checked and was all ok ,previous keeper had just changed the belt and done the head etc
    i noticed when i try to start the car i get a big puddle of unspent dirty fuel actually leaking out the air filter housing box, i popped the top off to see the filter soaked though,the rubber pipe leading to the throttle body soaked and the inlet all soaked in fuel,so im guessing for some reason fuel is being pushed up through the inlet manifold all the way down and coming out the airbox as bad as a radiator type leak,
    so i had bought alot of parts and spare engine anyways so i changed the whole metering head,the inlet manifold,throttle body,fuel lines ,injectors the lot but still got fuel pouring out the bottom of the airbox ??????

    am gutted because it looks like am gonna end up selling this car even before a get to enjoy it
    am not much of a mechanic but any help would be appreciated
    ah yeah also changed the ecu lol

  2. #2
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
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    Fisrst, welcome aboard!
    Jesus, what's left to change?!
    Try starting it with the 5th injector's plug disconnected, it maybe jammed open as they rarely turn on unless the outside temp. is really cold.
    Sounds like the intake cam is a few teeth out of phase, probably isn't but check the actual static timing anyway, a quick way of telling if the inlet cam is roughly timed is when you remove the oil filler cap, the lobe for the inlet valve can just be seen, it should point towards the 10 o' clock postion, if you can't you'll have to remove the rocker cover and check the inter cam alignment scribed lines on the camshaft's chain wheels, both should be flush with the cyl. head outer edge and inline with each other at TDC.
    To check the engine's timing, align the scribed line on the flywheel/crankshaft pulley that corrispondes to TDC obviously, your going to first get no. 1 piston on its firing stroke, Remove no.1 plug and put a screwdriver down the plug hole to deterime where the piston crown is.
    Failing all that, as a last attempt pull all 4 main injectors out of the inlet manifold and put them into plastic containers, turn on the ignition and see what happens, possibly 1 or more injectors stuck open and pi$$ fuel into the engine, it happens.
    Go through that lot first then report back mate.
    Last edited by VEEDUBBED; 5th January 2017 at 1:28 PM.

  3. #3
    Hello

    As above first check your timing

    Fuel lines correctly installed at metering head?

    i had a problem like this several years ago with a mk2 16v golf - the car had been sitting unloved for many years

    when i came to eventually start it it would not go and the plugs were saturated with fuel and the oil in the sump eventually was contaminated with fuel.

    The problem was a faulty metering head. (JUST NOTICED THAT YOU HAVE CHANGED YOURS!)

    If i can remember i tested mine by removing an injector and turning the ignition to live where you will hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds and i can recall at this point there should be no fuel spraying from the injectors - the fuel will only spray once you turn the ignition further to start the car (mine was spraying fuel with the pump priming)

    i located a replacement metering head and changed the oil and my car fired into life instantly.

  4. #4
    already tested the injectors and checked the timing tdc etc all fine
    i replaced the 5th injector also ,i have a full engine for parts so im abble to swap alot of parts over .
    the last keeper had the engine out is it possible the fuel lines from meter head to engine could be wrong as it seems like any unused fuel is not being sent back to the tank and instead heading out the airbox ??

  5. #5
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
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    Try cleaning out the metering plunger inside the actual fuel meter Unit, sometimes they gun up and get stuck open allowing fuel to be constantly injected into the engine, flooding it.
    I think it'd be pretty obvious how the fuel lines connected up, afair the banjo on the fuel inlet is bigger than the return anyway.
    Check also the actual resistance of the funnel arm with the air flow disc fitted to it., if plunger is stuck in the full load open position, the arm will be free with no resistance 'cos the plunger is fully up.

  6. #6
    whole meter head was changed and checked, and know the new one is working ok as used it to test the injector spray pattern

  7. #7
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
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    Could you make a short video clip and maybe put it up on Youtube?
    Totally baffling this one..
    Last edited by VEEDUBBED; 6th January 2017 at 11:57 AM.

  8. #8
    yeah be tomorro, was thinking if there is a feed and return for the fuel on the block could they be in wrong places

  9. #9
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
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    The only thing on the block would be the warm up regulator, if it's an early KR 1800cc model, even then (going by memory) the banjo bolt diameters are different.
    Defiantly very unusual this problem, I've seen loads of problems on different Vw engines but nothing like your problem..
    Try and get a clip uploaded showing what the hell is going on and we'll see.

  10. #10
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    Where did you check the spark; At the plugs or from the coil lead?

    The only reason I ask is I have had a couple of rotor arms fail on my G60 where the spark goes to earth through the distributor drive.

    One arm was brand new and had only covered 100 miles before it failed.

    Spark + fuel + correct timing usually results in the engine firing.

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