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Thread: Sunroof stopped sliding - easy fix Also a grease question

  1. #1
    Enthusiast timmaaah's Avatar
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    Sunroof stopped sliding - easy fix Also a grease question

    Well the other day I got the dreaded tilt but won't slide issue with my sunroof. After doing a bit of research and head scratching I found an easy fix.

    Part of the mechanism consists of a small wheel that sits in a slot in the runners. There is a little rubber that sits on the end, and it would appear that over time, this loses its thickness, so when that part is pushed back, instead of the wheel riding up and over the groove, it pushed downwards, and stops the mechanism from moving back. Research would show that this usually happens on the passenger side, and was the case for me.

    One way to fix it, I guess, would be to find a rubber oring that is thick enough to make the resting position of the wheel a tiny bit higher. I didn't have any o-rings, but I did have some od 4.8,, id 3.0mm plastic pipe that is the perfect size to fit on the metal part and lift it up enough that it works every time.

    Tilt your sun roof, then gently tap back the fabric cover, lower it and push it back out of the way. Now - CAREFULLY try sliding your mech back. See if the wheel digs in. Now try a fingernail under the rear of the wheel and try again. It should lift up correctly this time. I took off the rubber bit, and cut a short piece of my plastic tubing, slipped it on and it works like a charm. Slide back the fabric cover and gently press back into place. Pics below - any questions, just ask.

    The piece I cut was about 5mm or so long. I do have about 1.5 meters of the pipe left, so if people need some I'm happy to post these out (just cover postage).

    Now - a grease question. I have some Klüber Klübersynth UH1 64-2403 silicone based grease specs:

    DIN EN 377 Class D
    DIN-DVGW-Reg.-No. NG-5162BN0547
    NSF H1-registred

    Full data sheet here http://roghankar.com/new/statics/upl...H1_64_2403.pdf

    Any good for the sunroof, or should I just buy this from the bay I can get the Klübersynth foc

    Many thanks

    Driver's side showing the little rubber end

    IMG_20170402_123523_zps5ndbtsfd.JPG
    Passenger side with modification

    IMG_20170402_123508_zpsyis5amkd.JPG

    IMG_20170402_123414_zps5sxspely.JPG
    Last edited by timmaaah; 23rd August 2017 at 8:02 AM. Reason: Because Photobucket is ****
    You'll have to speak up, I'm wearing a towel....

  2. #2
    ⋆⋆ CF Member ⋆⋆
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    I think you've hit on a little miracle cure. One of my previous cassettes was bent on the frame at this point due to the rubber being off.... and broke. I'll happily take a piece of you let me know how to pay you.
    As for the grease, I got mine off of ebay that was recommended on here. Only around £8 for the tube, but free is better


    Cress
    95 VR6
    One day she will drive out of my Garage

  3. #3
    CF-oholic! fla's Avatar
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    That's exactly what i did on my mechanism. Although i used a blue silicone tube! Time will tell how effective it is...
    Hasan
    VR6 Auto to manual conversion, beige leather, aircon, TT comps, blue dash lights & switches, Koni TA/Nothelle springs, OBD2, 264 cams, Schrick

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  4. #4
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    tidy fix well done

    the liqui moly stuff you linked is the one i used & is recommended on here
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  5. #5
    Enthusiast timmaaah's Avatar
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    OK, I'll order up the moly stuff as it's tried and tested.

    I should add I removed the old black rubber before fitting the new bit!

    Cressa, pm me your address and I'll pop a few bits in the post. I'll do a couple of different lengths to ensure you get the right fit and for when you drop one and lose it (ask me why I thought of that possibility lol)
    You'll have to speak up, I'm wearing a towel....

  6. #6
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    The moly stuff is good. Cheers mate

    Cress
    95 VR6
    One day she will drive out of my Garage

  7. #7
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    I also glued a small slither of plastic under the hole into which the wheel drops - has the same affect of stopping the hammer dropping so low that it wont come out - I thought it might stay in place a bit longer than the rubber band - could be belt'n'braces to do both

  8. #8
    CF-oholic! fla's Avatar
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    Good idea. I was thinking of different options as a long term solution but thats a good one
    Hasan
    VR6 Auto to manual conversion, beige leather, aircon, TT comps, blue dash lights & switches, Koni TA/Nothelle springs, OBD2, 264 cams, Schrick

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  9. #9
    CF-oholic! fla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geeba View Post
    I also glued a small slither of plastic under the hole into which the wheel drops - has the same affect of stopping the hammer dropping so low that it wont come out - I thought it might stay in place a bit longer than the rubber band - could be belt'n'braces to do both
    Ive just removed the tube on mine and replaced with two strips of plastic cut from a tie wrap. Its actually working far better than the tube i had used before. Fantastic suggestion Geeba, i'll post some pics of mine shortly.
    Hasan
    VR6 Auto to manual conversion, beige leather, aircon, TT comps, blue dash lights & switches, Koni TA/Nothelle springs, OBD2, 264 cams, Schrick

    my car

  10. #10
    CF-oholic! fla's Avatar
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    Here you go. And aftet greasing the gearbox and output gear its a LOT smoother now. Slides back but doesn't want to come back I think the whole mechanism needs to be stripped and greased properly. But at least the fix suggested by Geeba works well. Let me know if any explanation of the pics is needed. Btw the gearbox needs a t20 torx bit
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by fla; 13th April 2017 at 6:09 PM.
    Hasan
    VR6 Auto to manual conversion, beige leather, aircon, TT comps, blue dash lights & switches, Koni TA/Nothelle springs, OBD2, 264 cams, Schrick

    my car

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