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Thread: Right throttle for 2.0 16V

  1. #1

    Right throttle for 2.0 16V

    Hello guys,

    Please help me clarify which one is the right for a 2.0 16V Rado.

    One has a potentiometer the other has 2 microswitch(one for start the other for full open)

    I have on the car the micro switch version.
    Today I fitted the potentiometer version. Lower rpm nice 1500- 3500 nice end smooth but when the second valve opens cannot feel a big
    kick. (Kr cam and bigger manifold fitted). Usually over 4000 I feel a big kick until 6000(With the other throttle.
    But my biggest issue sometimes. Sometimes it goes really nice and powerful sometime feel like something holding back the car.

    Please find the pictures below


    Any help much appreciate.

  2. #2
    Please help

  3. #3
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
    Join Date
    21st December 2004
    Was that the throttle body i sent you?
    The correct version is the one with the throttle pot. fitted, might be a duff potentiometer that is at fault.
    Try checking the resistenze range with a multimeter to see what kind of signal exits the sensor.

  4. #4
    I bought it from the forum but from someone else.

    Are you sure the the throttle pot fitted one the right version? What this for the micro switch one?

    Thank you for your answer.

  5. #5
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
    Join Date
    21st December 2004
    My old '92 16v 9a engine only ever had the throttle pot. version fitted, along with ke motronic injection.
    The microswitch version was fitted to the older KR 1800 16v mill.
    What injection system is actually fitted on your Corrado?

  6. #6
    It has the the original injection system. I fitted the tps sensor throttle at the weekend but does not work very well. Idle is lumpy and low rpm better than with the other throttle but after 4000 rpm no power. When the microswitch one fitted the idle was ok but sometimes I had a lot of power sometimes not. Looks like the wiring loom changed as well. I do not even know what ecu it has. Stealth racing have fitted the kr cam and the bigger manifold so maybe that time fitted the kr throttle for some reason. I am taking to pieces the throttle and give it a good clean and put back. I will see. Do you know how can I take the throttle valve out?

  7. #7
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
    Join Date
    21st December 2004
    Be careful about the throttle valve disks, the small fixing screws are normally 'peened' into position, when you unscrew them they chew up the throttle spindle's screw thread..
    Getting the screws back in again can be challenging.
    Just use a good quality carb cleaner, I used to use products made by Cyclo, nothing came close to their cleaner, cut through everything.
    Could also try getting the body ultrasonically cleaned too.
    Personally I don't think the coming and going of the power curve has much to do with the throttle body, I'd be checking other areas first.

  8. #8
    MAybe you are right. This morning one point the car was running very well other moment was not good. I think might be an electric issue or fuel related problem
    Hal of the car already changed : Fuel filter, distibutor cap, rotor arm. 2 different set ht lead tried, injector replaced, cleaned the inlet manifold, ecu sensor changed in the engine,spark plugs, fuel relay.
    Vacuum hoses checked and replaced(2.0 16v does not have too much)
    No idea what else I can check or change.
    I do not want to give up but really annoying.

  9. #9
    ⋆⋆ CF Donator ⋆⋆
    Join Date
    21st December 2004
    Change the Hall Sensor inside the distributer mate, they often play up.

  10. #10
    I can see where some confusion is coming in here.
    On my 93 2.0l 16v 9a with ke motronic the throttle valve (where the throttle cable attaches to) has a black box underneath which houses 2 switches, but some people refer to this as a potentiometer which it is not.
    The only potentiometer that I know of is on the side of the MAF (nearest to the wing) and this measures directly how far open the MAF is and feeds this info to the ecu.

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