VR6 Water pump replacement guide

[Funkster 0]

'lo all,

 

I have finally gotten around to writing up my water pump replacement guide. It is on my website:

 

http://www.funkster.org/

 

Click on Cars on the left, and you'll see it under the Corrado section. Sorry I can't give you a direct link- I like to keep the frames but my cheapo hosting doesn't support referrer info so I can't make it very slick )

 

All feedback appreciated!

--

Olly

[tonytiger 0]

Thanks for the write-up - very useful. I replaced the water pump a couple of months back using this and it was pretty straight-forward (though I did snap a bolt in the front engine mount when putting it back together).

 

However, I had a problem with the car this week as result of me doing this - sounded like problem in the head somewhere - a very loud clatter/rattle/knock, which increased with engine speed :shock: I couldn't see any obvious problems, neither could a mate - so I took it to a garage fearing the worst. Initially they also thought it was a problem in the head and we were just discussing options when one of the guys realised it wasn't that at all. Fortunately, it turned out that 2 of the water pump pulley bolts had come out (completely) and the third one was loose and it was just the pulley clattering. So, might be worth using some threadlock on those bolts when refitting to make sure this doesn't happen.

 

Cheers,

Tony

[Roger Blassberg 0]

Was it the bolts holding the pump onto the block or the ones holding the pulley onto the pump? It might be worth taking the pump out and having a good look at the vanes if it had been clattering like that; if they are damaged, the pump will not be doing its job properly, with all that that entails. It would be a good idea to inspect the serpentine belt for damage too if the pulley has been running out of line.

 

Best wishes

 

RB

[craigowl 0]

Yes, I used funkster's useful write up, too. 8)

 

I broke a mounting bolt, too, when tightening up to torque and further research revealed that VAG recommend putting new bolts in after removal/turning of old ones as they are deemed "one use only". Probably best to have 2 or 3 handy - they only cost about a quid each - just in case you are unlucky. Personally, though, I would change them. You can bet yandards, cheesewire and others will agree!

 

Did a brisk 130 mile round trip, mostly motorway yesterday, and no leaks after my novice-style installing of Gruvenparts crack pipe, new oil cooler hoses and new thermostat housing. Bloomin' miracle, I thought! Fingers crossed it all remains leakproof.

[craigowl 0]

Pic shows from (right):

 

1 - sheared engine mount (rear) bolt

 

2 - original water pump after 105k miles and 12 years. Early generation plastic blades in perfect condition - as was whole of pump and thermostat housing. Even all the O rings were indistinguishable from the new ones.

 

3 - Box of new pump by Hepu - made in Germany. Metal blades. Cost £33, including VAT and delivery from Herts.

[tonytiger 0]

Was it the bolts holding the pump onto the block or the ones holding the pulley onto the pump?

 

It was the bolts holding the pulley to the pump - so I'm sure the pump will be okay.

 

Annoyingly, I needn't have even changed the pump - I did so because there was a noise in that area and I had a bit of a panic that it might be the pump - but it wasn't and the original plastic pump looked just fine. Turned out to be the belt tensioner.

 

Still, at least I know the water pump is okay!

 

Problem with getting new bolts is they're usually dealer only, and always have to ordered. And one or two quid each (or towards £5 for suspension bolts I think) doesn't sound much until you end up buying quite a few.