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Cressa

Karmann the Corrado

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Vgi vac reservoir can be deleted and use the servo instead

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On 2/28/2022 at 11:00 AM, fla said:

Cressa, would you mind advising how you've routed your cable for the uprated loom, and where you've located things for the Schrick pls? My bay is quite a mess especially around the battery.  I've put the vacuum control on the bulkhead although it looks like you found a good place below the aircon relays.  I've tied the solenoid to the side of my aircon relays but not really happy with it tbh..

With the loom, have you clipped it to the front wing or let it run down behind the battery? Or indeed any other route?

 

Thanks

Hasan

I've attached a picture the uprated loom. I removed the front grille and tyrapped it out the way to the bottom of the slam panel. Quick, easy and more importantly to me is that you dont see it. 

The relays I have stuck to the front of the battery inside the battery jacket. Again you dont notice it, but I will try and get a pic posted.

As for the schrick,  you've seen my reservoir position. As Dox mentioned, the brake servo is a good idea and one I wanted to try. I extended my wires to the switching unit and hid it up next to the ecu.

Screenshot_20220302-222452_Samsung Internet.jpg

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Correction... I stuck the relays to the front of the battery as shown in the picture

Screenshot_20220302-224104_Gallery.jpg

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Birthday treat,  a Schrick oil cap 🎁

 

20220703_121529.jpg

20220703_121535.jpg

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LOVE it!  Never seen this cap before. And happy birthday to you, cheers! 

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Very nice. It’s the little things that bring joy sometimes. 

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Posted (edited)

And today some bad news. Admittedly I have ignored the Corrado lately due to a mk2 golf project blocking her in. Because of this I haven't done my usual weekly starting to get warm. 

Watch the short video of her complaining about this.. I am a big believer that these should be driven and not parked up. Damn

I started her up today and she was not happy. Rough idle and stinks. Perhaps bad fuel I am thinking but then it starts to smell of  burning rubber / PVC / electrical maybe.....  I turn her off and have smoke rising from the rear of the engine bay (see video) BOLLOX 😫😫. I cant see where from so tried to start it again but something went pop at the rear of the engine. Now she just turns over. Occasionally fires once but then nothing 

🤔🤨😭😭😭

 

Edited by Cressa

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Has the damper box thing blown?

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Dox said:

Has the damper box thing blown?

It is that sort of area.. tomorrow I will dig deeper into this. 

1st port of call is to see what Vagcom says

Then I shall start taking parts off...

Disappointed. 🤬🤬

Edited by Cressa

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16597279078649156090406768661245.jpgDox, are you thinking item 15? I'm about to read up on all these items

 

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30 minutes ago, Cressa said:

16597279078649156090406768661245.jpgDox, are you thinking item 15? I'm about to read up on all these items

 

Yes, I'm sure a faulty crank sensor allows fuel to be injected with the inlet valve open and a wrongly timed spark blows the box?

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I will look at that tomorrow.  Annoying that due to lack of use she wants to do to me .....

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And so the day starts.

Plugged into VCDS, 4 faults found for engine, see pic.

00515 hall sensor 

17978 engine start blocked by immobilizer 

00545 Engine transmission short to ground

00513 Engine speed sensor

Not worried about the last one. Time to start looking 👍

 

16597807027224752924253099214046.jpg

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The damper box has definitely had a bad day. I have a Schrick and have just read this should be removed anyway!!  So shall try and clean the ISV and put it back together without the box. 

I need to look how to test this hall sensor?

20220806_112540.jpg

 

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You’ll get an engine speed sensor code if you scan without the engine running.

someone here contacted Vince after popping a few and his recommendation was to replace the crank sensor as it was still ok most of the time but gave false info on occasion causing a backfire into the inlet. 
 

generally if the dash reads rpm when cranking the sensor is picking up (which doesn’t mean it’s timed correctly for suck, squeeze, bang, blow - a bang during suck would cause your issue).

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Check the wiring to cam and crank sensors, faulty cam sensor usually gives long cranking before eventually starting - Roger Chatfield had this many moons ago.

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Thanks for your help Dox. 

I cleaned and tested the ISV. Works fine and is just over 8ohms as ABV finds with his

I cleared the fault codes and they stayed off. The car started perfectly and instantly, at 1200, then 1000 then slightly lumpy. Definitely not right. It is also very noisy without the damper box

Just done a rescan and got 

00553 mass air flow sensor(G70) 29-10 short to ground- intermittent

00518 throttle position sensor(G69) 30-10 open or short to plus - intermittent 

01257 idling speed stabilisation valve(N71) 31-10 open or short to ground - intermittent 

00513 Engine speed sensor (G28) 03-00 No signal

I need to look where this crank sensor is. Hopefully due to short cranking I can discount the cam sensor. 

I shall have to dig out some wiring diagrams to find where connections go to and test the wiring properly,  not a 2 minute job though

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15 minutes ago, Cressa said:

Thanks for your help Dox. 

I cleaned and tested the ISV. Works fine and is just over 8ohms as ABV finds with his

I cleared the fault codes and they stayed off. The car started perfectly and instantly, at 1200, then 1000 then slightly lumpy. Definitely not right. It is also very noisy without the damper box

Just done a rescan and got 

00553 mass air flow sensor(G70) 29-10 short to ground- intermittent

00518 throttle position sensor(G69) 30-10 open or short to plus - intermittent 

01257 idling speed stabilisation valve(N71) 31-10 open or short to ground - intermittent 

00513 Engine speed sensor (G28) 03-00 No signal

I need to look where this crank sensor is. Hopefully due to short cranking I can discount the cam sensor. 

I shall have to dig out some wiring diagrams to find where connections go to and test the wiring properly,  not a 2 minute job though

White plug by the oil cooler I think. I’d remove it and wipe it, being a coil (electro magnet)  they can pick up swarf / metal debris, 4 or 5 mm Allen bolt I think

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Have good check of the cabling- can you see any mouse droppings in the garage. 

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10 minutes ago, Keyo said:

Have good check of the cabling- can you see any mouse droppings in the garage. 

I will have a better look tomorrow as anything is possible. Although I thought I mouse proofed it last year with a rubber draught strip that stuck to the floor

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13 minutes ago, Cressa said:

I will have a better look tomorrow as anything is possible. Although I thought I mouse proofed it last year with a rubber draught strip that stuck to the floor

Check they aint had a nibble on that draughtstrip and built a tunnel - thats how mine got in. 

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Glad to see there is a lot of room to see things 🙈😭😭

20220807_114553.jpg

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What's the pipe with the blue clip on? I don't recognise it.

If you're looking for the crank sensor you're best off going from the underside of the car. As Dox says it is by the oil cooler, and just above the sump. I changed mine not too long ago and this was really the only access. There is a small socket head cap bolt that secures the sensor.

Cam sensor is, I think, in the chain cover housing towards the rear.

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