how much brake fluid

[ger040 3]

after a recent clutch master cylinder replacement i have decided to give my car a complete brake fluid change,

my last mot the tester said that the rear brakes were not operating to their required efficiency but as the car had recent disc and caliper replacement he let it pass (just)

so today using a pressure bleeder all was going well until i got to the offside rear - plenty of air bubbles 

however some 4 litres and several hours later still getting micro bubbles 

does 4 litres seem excessive - had to stop as i have run out of fluid.

how much fluid should it roughly take?

[Dox 23]

Are you vacuum bleeding? 

[1xshaunx1 27]

I’ve just done my rear calliper upgrade and used about the same amount maybe a bit more. Drivers rear seemed to have more air in it too. Used a pressure bleeder that uses 20 psi out of a tyre. 

[ger040 3]

5 hours ago, Dox said:

Are you vacuum bleeding? 

using a sealy 820 clutch and brake bleeding kit

Has a internal hand pump i boost to 1-1,5 bar

[ger040 3]

2 hours ago, 1xshaunx1 said:

I’ve just done my rear calliper upgrade and used about the same amount maybe a bit more. Drivers rear seemed to have more air in it too. Used a pressure bleeder that uses 20 psi out of a tyre. 

seems to taking a lot of time and wasting a lot of fluid

yes its the drivers side rear too

Edited June 18, 2020 by ger040

[Dox 23]

39 minutes ago, ger040 said:

using a sealy 820 clutch and brake bleeding kit

Has a internal hand pump i boost to 1-1,5 bar

I’m on my second one of those, on the original nut that holds the pump to the reservoir cracked.

whats the pedal like?

 

[ger040 3]

1 hour ago, Dox said:

I’m on my second one of those, on the original nut that holds the pump to the reservoir cracked.

whats the pedal like?

 

pedal feels good always has.

i will give it another hour this evening see how it goes

[seanl82 23]

I've got one of those too. Was hoping it would be better than an e-z bleed. 😬   Will be using it for the first time when I get my MC back in the next couple of weeks hopefully.

Might be worth checking the fluid in the reservoir, when I used a e-z bleed last time, it was introducing a lot of air into the fluid at the reservoir side. Thought it could have been to do with either too high pressure, or a leak so sucking in air somewhere within the pressure side.

Edited June 18, 2020 by seanl82

[ger040 3]

4 hours ago, seanl82 said:

I've got one of those too. Was hoping it would be better than an e-z bleed. 😬   Will be using it for the first time when I get my MC back in the next couple of weeks hopefully.

Might be worth checking the fluid in the reservoir, when I used a e-z bleed last time, it was introducing a lot of air into the fluid at the reservoir side. Thought it could have been to do with either too high pressure, or a leak so sucking in air somewhere within the pressure side.

strange its only the rear drivers side

the reservoir is 28 years old and is cloudy so cant really see things inside.

[Dox 23]

You could try and wipe a little grease around the nipple to prevent air ingress via the nipples thread - this can happen when vacuum bleeding (drawing in air instead of sucking through the fluid). I've never heard of the same via pressure bleeding but you never know (we use compressed air through venturis at work to create vacuum - a bit like the theory of a carburettor.

[ger040 3]

i will try it and see

 

[ger040 3]

3 hours ago, Dox said:

You could try and wipe a little grease around the nipple to prevent air ingress via the nipples thread - this can happen when vacuum bleeding (drawing in air instead of sucking through the fluid). I've never heard of the same via pressure bleeding but you never know (we use compressed air through venturis at work to create vacuum - a bit like the theory of a carburettor.

Cant believe it DOX,

Took the bleed nipple completely out put a few turns of PTFE tape reinstalled a hey presto NO BUBBLES

as you say vacuum yes positive pressure no 

THANKS