Jump to content
jenkiam

Electric windows

Recommended Posts

Can anyone point me to a definitive explanation of how to replace the electric window regulator on a 95 car? Lots of threads on here with broken links so I'm not having any joy finding wat i need

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not an easy one I'm afraid - but doable with a bit of patience and double jointed elbows.

- inner handles and door card off (watch for hidden screws at front and behind the speaker trim)

- remove what's left of the waterproof membrane, if any

- remove inner and outer door scrapers to remove glass for access if needed (can be propped up but is very heavy)

- disconnect loom to regulator

- drill 3-5 rivets holding regulator and motor in place

- test new regulator on bench to be sure it works

- replace, mounting with new rivets and rubber bushes (can also use bolt/nut combination for the rivet mounting which can make life easier in future)

- replace the plastic window rollers with poly items while in there, clean and grease the rail 

It's not possible to replace the motor on it's own, it comes as a compete unit with the cables and guides attached. Sometimes they just stick, and a good working over with a mallet will sort them - also check your switch and control module  is not faulty by running some current from a 12v leisure battery to the motor while in situ to check (reverse polarity to open and close).

Hope that helps - been a while since I did it so sure to have missed something - there are some vids on YouTuve, but the best write up was on the Canadian Corrado web site.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The motor has 2 connections, I suggest before you remove the whole assembly you apply 12v directly to it to se if you actually need to remove it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Dox said:

The motor has 2 connections, I suggest before you remove the whole assembly you apply 12v directly to it to se if you actually need to remove it.

This.

My passenger side window was stuck (battery had been out of the car for a while)  applied 12v from a small battery, didn't move it.  Assumed that the motor was seized and proceeded to drill out the motor rivets.  Just thought i'd spray the the window channels and runners just i case they were where the window was stuck.  Tried my spare car battery and guess what, the window moved down.  Needed a bit of persuasion and proper cleaning of the channels but it was fine.  Some scrubbing and silicone spray later and its all fine.  Just had to replace the motor bobbins - managed to get two out but the third didn't want to budge - access is difficult when the motor is fitted. Used some 15mm bobbins with an m6 female thread on one side so you can used screws from the inside.

But obviously it turned out to be unnecessary to have drilled the motor rivets if i had used a proper battery and common sense first!

Edited by fla

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol:

You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Edited by fendervg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, fendervg said:

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol:

You definitely don't to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Sorry, I missed that. I’ve a pair of croc clips (ex battery charger), in-line fuse and the two common sizes of female spade connectors, I power up many things with them to test off the car. A worthwhile addition to any workshop and free

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed. I use my ctek battery charger on supply mode with a pair of wires with spades for this very purpose. Inbuilt trip so no need for fuse. 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, fendervg said:

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol:

You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Agreed.  When my d/s mech failed i stripped the motor down and cleaned it all up before refitting.  I would certainly recommend doing this with any second-hand unit.  Not difficult at all, and quite satisfying when its done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...