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MJA

288 Calipers - pad slap/clonk ?

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Side tracked today with house chores but made a video trying to make it clonk with a ramp but nope.



Hopefully a bit later I will do the following:

Strip and clean rear brakes. They squeek so not releasing fully.

Check driveshaft bolts

Re torque top mounts for the millionth time (lol).



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You need to chock the rear wheels and use the powertrain to force suspension etc backwards / forwards with some slightly brutal clutch control.

Check engine mounts too

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OK I've done another test with the chocks (will be uploaded in about 40min). Didnt do it though. Wish I could get it on video. Will try again after taking it for a longer drive.

I will have a look at the exhaust again. Stealth did push it back a bit back in April as it was hitting the beam.



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1 minute ago, MJA said:

OK I've done another test with the chocks (will be uploaded in about 40min). Didnt do it though. Wish I could get it on video. Will try again after taking it for a longer drive.

I will have a look at the exhaust again. Stealth did push it back a bit back in April as it was hitting the beam.



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I have a stealth made and fitted exhaust 

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There is part 2.

 

 

 

This car is a love hate relationship but it does look pretty sweet as in the video in my eyes.

 

Messaged Vince yesterday when I got back from Silverstone about the issue and ringing next week to book in and he said check the gearbox mount. He's great for getting back to me on a Sunday.

 

Car is annoying me right now and since April. Can't get an alignment until solved and can't push it for fear of it falling apart. It was nice to have keyo in my rear view mirror yesterday enroute to Silverstone - these cars have such presence on the road but must admit an oak green mk2 16v stole the show in my eyes on the day... a car I have waiting in the wings once mk3 16v finished and this white corrado not demanding such attention.

 

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Posted (edited)

Yes they have great presence- can always get a bit low when you cant resolve something and keep chucking money at it. 

My Vr will most likely come up for sale over the next 12 months as Im looking to try other classics - I should say im looking for a more outright sports car for the weekend as I have my mk2 as a classic hatch and want to mix it up a bit - 2 garage spaces and want at least one change- in fact its part of the fun buying a new used car or classic. 

What I have learnt is buy a classic that is in mint condition or has been restored - its an easy car to sell on and you will not be faced with a thousands pounds loss ( restoration job) if selling. Also a big factor of a happy ownership is part sourcing - how hard parts are to get - quality of parts that are available.

My car will most likley be sold with all the rare parts at first sold as a one of one - my man maths say a fully restored car is 15 k these days especially if it has had a top and bottom engine rebuild from stealth with little miles done after build. My issues is the car has 10 k worth of collectable genuine vw rare parts on it - vsr - geminin box and so on - I really dont want to take the parts off the car - I might try it a 25k first but then will have have to take the parts off if there is no buyer - who knows from my experience corrado buyers think they can get nice bits for free on a car so you have to take them off- never known a car like it !!!  Whatever the car sells for rare parts complete or taken off  I will be looking at a 15k loss - how do I know this is I have recorded every expense from day 1 . Alot the parts didnt need changing but got them whilst you can things like a bosch fan and complete spoiler mech- some of these parts are £550- £350 and so on - it soon adds up. Rubber seals if you add them up can come upto 5k - my cars has mostly new seals etc- easily get up there. 

Edited by Keyo

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Well, an update. I went to have to car aligned this week thinking it was just that causing my issue. The garage said the track rods did not seem right for the car and there was some dodgy-ness with the gaitors. I cant be sure it wasn't them that caused this or the people who aligned it back in April, however as I understand it the cable ties (ideally proper clips but nk space to install when sub frame on car) should have been removed for the alignment otherwise the boot just twists with the track rod arm.

The gaitors were hanging off the rack on one side so perhaps my inner track rod joint had failed causing the clonk. No movement at 9 and 3 on the wheel though.

Anyway I went ahead and changed the inner and and outer track rods today and will get it aligned next week. Fingers crossed it solves the issue. There is nothing else left to change now. I did make special effort to ensure the little tube that runs from each side seated nicely in the gaitor. Not a fun job with limited space.

69f33a24b93c75f64c7bcab8d574a076.jpg5b6ff04bf3e9c50c43172b342fbf9652.jpgcfcd889dec31edf97185386de388fe4f.jpg

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Garages do that all the time with gaitors unfortunately. But the new track rods do look great and hopefully the issue is now solved.

Hasan

Edited by fla

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Thanks Fla. A shame as the trackrods prior are only 3 years old/less than 5k. I've left the clips off the ends so I dont end up in the same place come new alignment.



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Update in this comedy sketch. Inner/outer track rods did not solve it. It did it driving forward off the drive this time.

Will have to wait until 20th now as that's when it is booked into a local 80/90s bosch specialist garage.



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Keyo suggested a good shout actually- front crossmember/rad support bushes or bolts. I havent touched them but also haven't checked their torque (anyone know what they should be?). I have had the bumper off in the past. The car has a vibratechnics front mount.

 

I do not feel this in the steering wheel.

 

I am loathed to change the rear engine mounts they are brand new looking still. No rocking on engine either.

 

 

 

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Have found something in this area - passenger side outer 17mm bolts that hold the bumper and cross member to the car were loose, not finger loose but also a long way from being torqued up (85nm). The driver side were at the correct torque. This will highly likely by my error as i did remove the bumper last year and remember just using my socket wrench to tighten thinking I was just holding the bumper on, but can now see these are structural bolts.

The smaller 13mm was fine at 25nm. I also checked the other 17mm holding rad support to chassis and both sides needed a little bit more to tighten.

On a side point I thought the bolts and framing were in great condition considering never been powdercoated etc. My car has always had the air duct installed on the lower bumper perhaps that is the reason why - my mk2 and mk3 frames needed blasing and coating and the bolts required Irwins to get them off. 

 

 

20220908_074737.jpg

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Hopefully this is the issue, i also have a slight clunk from the front that i cant identify - I'll certainly check those bolts too.

Btw, should these structural bolts have any antiseize applied to them or will this adversely affect the torque and hence bolt tension (like wheel bolts)? I'm always concerned by either rust-welding on the one hand, or over tightening on the other

Hasan

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It's a good question. My thought with these is it is probably not a problem either way - yes the anti-seize will perhaps allow a bit more clamping force to be applied but this equally might be offset by the fact that the threads are now probably a bit grubby. Dirt and corrosion in there is going to mean they are not perfectly smooth like new.

Additionally, I don't think these are critically torqued bolts, or torque to yield. Different with, say cylinder head bolts, but given these are pretty hefty bolts and grade 8.8 (if memory serves) it would need a lot of torque to get anywhere near yield. Certainly more than the 80Nm odd for these. So you may get some additional clamping force, but in this application - does it matter? Probably not.

I imagine there is some tolerance in there from VW as well, acknowledging the fact that torque wrenches may not all be calibrated the same and conditions will vary. On balance I'd rather be able to get the bolt out than have it rust itself in.

As for the clunk MJA, I wish I could offer something but I've got no idea. I know how frustrating it is when you have an ongoing, intermittent and seemingly unsolvable problem. It did sound like the brakes were the issue - is it definitely coming from the front? Nothing to do with the rear brakes/handbrake not releasing properly? I imagine you've had a look there already but wasn't sure from the thread if it was just the fronts you looked at.

 

 

 

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Cheers chaps! I took the car for just a £30 tracking jobby at my local garage and sadly it did clonk on the way. However post tracking it feels much better and hasn't clonked yet. Admittedly it's only done 2 miles max. It was well out of tracking alignment though the struts still need a laser camber jobby to be 100%. 

I feel like the noise is coming from the front passenger area but tbh it could be anywhere. I don't feel it in the steering wheel or in the seat.  

However what was great this AM is behind the garage i went to (had good reviews from the local community and very local) is a vw audi master tech setting up self employed who worked on these cars and mk3/mk4 when at the dealer, he also spent time working at an air cooled place too. He doesn't do private work generally but we got introduced and chatting and he will take a look in a few weeks if it is still happening and said he'll help me with my cars too. I had lots of car related compliments which has picked up the mood up. 

Plan is to just use the thing and monitor. I don't think it is unsafe as it's been on a MOT shacker machine and drives tightly. The mechanic took it out today post tracking for example and no issues found. 

RE copper slip - i do use that on bolts such as the ones that go into the wishbones, outer track rods and these ones that also hold on the bumper. I also used it on the stub axle bolts on the other cars as they are a right pain to get out and are also a very very tight fit to get in as well. 

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30 miles done today no clonks or noises. Perhaps it was a combination of bad tracking, loose front cross member bolt and new inner and outer track rods.

Car is driving excellent after tracking, something I have not experienced since April since it has been apart so much. And that was just tracking rather than alignment.

Definitely gelled with it again on the drive today.

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Over 100 miles now done and no issues. Mot on 28th plus proper 4 wheel alignment as only done the tracking last week.

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Glad you are enjoying it again. I am in the process of building up my mk2 golf steering rack and had in the back of my mind about your twisted boots. Surely this should never happen as the inner tie rods sit up against a locking nut and only the outer tie rod end should be adjustable. A very poor job by someone turning all of it.

Well done in persevering 👍

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Yes life is a bit better again now, my own Golfs have suffered with time spent on the Corrado though! The inner track rod sits inside a ball and socket on the inboard side so does twist on adjusting - the person doing the tracking needs to either spray some lube at the gaitor or go gentle.

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4 minutes ago, MJA said:

Yes life is a bit better again now, my own Golfs have suffered with time spent on the Corrado though! The inner track rod sits inside a ball and socket on the inboard side so does twist on adjusting - the person doing the tracking needs to either spray some lube at the gaitor or go gentle.

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On my golf the inner fits up to a measured distance of the rack then is locked in place by the nut. Adjustment is made by the outer tie rod only. The ball joint allows for the flexing movement of the suspension. Any movement of this would need the locknut backing up to it. Although mine is an early one. I understand that if someone turning this  they would be unscrewing it fitting onto the rack. 

Out of curiosity I need to check the Corrado Bentley now.

Must be so nice not having the rattle 

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Oh I see i haven't looked at my mk2 yet there. I have heard it is only adjustable on one side too. Do you have to take the outer track rod from the knuckle to adjust then or is there movement on the outer to set tracking?

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