buttles

The Race logic is pretty straight forward stuff if you are nifty with a soldering iron. Solder all joins including pins. If you order it direct from the company make sure you say it's for a Corrado. You need the long leads to go from the engine bay (Injectors) back into the car. The control box isn't weather proof so it needs to be under the glove box somewhere. Preparing loom say, an hour. Fitting whole lot to car, another hour and half. It's all in the preparation. Neil

muppetlab, I am away at the mo but I will put up a spec on Friday. Usual stuff though. VF9 Stage 2 and all the gubbins. Neil

Just had the nod from Vince that mine is ready to go in next week for the Turbo. Has been quite a while since first booked in but it will be worth the wait. 'Just' the Stage 1 as I have the old hot wire MAF. I've had the TC for a while now but it just won't bleedin rain. Anyone want a VF9 charger?!!

I have a set of 312 carriers and calipers on sale here now!!

Hi Neil, also got the orange time one. Would you mind pm me the update file? Ta, er, Neil

Really is the easiest job. One round and one square section seal from VW and ten minutes under the car. Just make sure the seals are seated correctly and don't over torque the cap. Neil

Even if they are 312's the previous owner did indeed get had!! Put a tape measure across the brake discs and see.

The ones that cause the problem are the cap head bolts that hold the caliper carrier to the axle. I always fill the hex head with coppa grease to stop them corroding. They are made of cheese so shouldn't rust anyway.

Casual, I have 15 of the original VR wheel bolts and a full set of the plastic black caps you can have for postage. Bolts not pristine but covered anyway. Neil

It's a good bit of kit. Having fun burning out the last of my clutch before it's changed!! It just won't rain here at the mo :(

Still interested as well. Thanks

For those looking to fit the Racelogic Traction Control, the Laptop interface is rs232. If like me you have only USB com ports you will need a converter lead. I have found one that is only a few quid and also found software that will make it work. Took a while to do with Vista 32bit!! If you want info just pm me. Neil. Come on June, hurry up!! Stage one awaiting

Just looked at mine. There are two oval plates that screw down onto the fixed bracket. One is threaded and a thinner one has two flats to lock the cylinder once it has been screwed to the correct height. Also the fixed bracket looks too far forward. Mine is just forward of the power steering reservoir

Ok, this weeks most odd question! How many segments does a VR rear ABS ring have? If anyone has one lying about can they spend their precious time counting. Need an exact number! Why? It's for Traction Control software. And for those that need to know the front has 43. Many thanks, now, where's that life......And the rear has 43 as well.......

I'll have one as well pls. Ta.

Thanks for that. Just hope they can take the sh&te roads :censored:

Hi, can someone confirm that the new topmount bearings from the dealers for a VR6 have a plastic surround? My old ones (original) are all metal like Dr Mat queried earlier. Hope they last as long. 16 years!! Ta, Neil

I have had the same problem in the warm weather and a hot engine. Leave the car for between 15 and 30 minutes and it's a non starter. Changed the whole starter motor and after six months the same thing. I did the relay mod to get a direct link between the battery and the solenoid and have not had it happen in 2 years. There is a thread on here somewhere on how to do it. Search for 'For those with hot start problems - lil update' Quite simple wireing, bits from Maplin.

Sorry to sound like a Dick but the gas flow/pressure is the other way around!! Bernoulli's principle explains it. It's the blowing between two hanging apples bit of Phsycics. Energy will be lost by the compression and expansion of the flowing air. Now, where did that Life get to?

Vag Com will be most peoples first suggestion. It will show up probably 85% of the known symptoms of bad running. Get that checked then report back. If that is clear then there are the known culprits. Neil B

Change 1 and 2. Fix wireing to 3 and ignore 4. (assuming engine not running durind test) Camshaft sensor will cause very poor running if duff. On Number three sensor now. Have you retested after clearing codes?

Weapon of choice...........Long 4mm drill and hammer in a suitable Torx socket on a long extension. Done. Then plenty of copper grease on new screw!!

Funny, just had my FPR go on me. Luckily managed to get car home. Had a spare and was second thing I checked. Thank god for simple and cheap fix. The car is charged so don't know if diaphragm likes vacuum and pressure cycles too much? It was a Chinese made one that came with the Vortech. VW one back in now so fingers crossed.

Got mine from this lot. www.lambdapower.co.uk/default.asp. They are high resistance ones. Worked fine for a few months now.

The Fuel Pressure Regulator is a basic switch. When the car is idling the vacuum generated in the inlet manifold pulls on a diaphragm in the FPR and reduces the fuel pressure at the injectors. When you open the throttle the vacuum collapses and the FPR gives the injectors full pressure. Don't need all that fuel when idling. If air is allowed to leak in that might allow the FPR to think the throttle is open and it will increase the fuel pressure. And run the engine rich at idle. It would have to be a big leak as there is an awful lot of 'suck' at idle! A simple test is to attach a fuel pressure guage at the other (left) end of the fuel rail and see what happens when the car is run and throttle opened. Off the top of my head 3 bar at idle and 4 bar at power. If pipework is good and there isn't any pressure change then FPR is knacked. Hope makes sense!! Neil