StuartFZR400

JMC - its an absolut nark and added with incorrect lane discpline on roundabouts makes it even worse. On the motorbike it is in your own interest to predict these poor manouvers and hang back; its best to take this into the car too. However I can empathise because my drive into Birmingham can be very busy, and if you choose to slow or wait, yet another car will carv you up, so its almost pointless and you have to be brave or stubborn*. Its a loose loose situation; there is a roundabout I take where traffic is very quick (say 40-50) to come round and indicators are a joke - gladly people behind are patient; yet on some T-junctions people behind beep if you wait safely (just cos some car has its indicator on - doesnt mean it is turning in). * so in the brave situation on the roundabout, at very low speeds (5) I use my horn if people mindlessly drift over into my lane whilst Im alongside. Its happened twice this week because its common practice at one roundabout; in both instances the women proceeded to have a hippy-fit and scream at me - when all I was doing was properly using the horn to make my presense known before they side-swipe me and my lovely C. Why do people see the horn as a red rag ???????? :?: In that instance I'd expect a little wave of appology not an arguement. Hang back where you can, as I imagine prooving fault would be tricky. I've got useed to this one too. What most anoying is when you're batting down the outside lane and 400yds ahead Miss-Middle-Lane decides to pop out doing about 55; forcing me to use the brakes. If she read the highwaycode she'd know she shouldnt do that. "The highway.. wot?" I foresee the satelite trackers being not too far off; 24/7 speed check --- time to sell the bike & rado, lol.

195/40 or 205/40 works fine on a 17" wheel. I'd suggest you get a 45 profile tyre since you've got a 16" wheel. As for width I prefer fatter & flatter 205's on a 7j. More grip. Its entyrely up to you; also try Tyre Bible if unsure. Did you read the Sticky TYRE Discussion thread?

Phoned VW = £11 for the rubber boot (D) off VAG - ouch !! Glad that was of help Phill , just ask if you need more help; at least pic 2 shows the piston and the indentations where the *special tool goes. But as said, I never took off the housing/disc and nor did I replace the caliper. I think that work involves depressuring the ABS system and bleeding it. Handbrake cable should be easy enough, although there is a pin that needs lining up once a new one is placed in.

1. as Jay says, check the wheel bolts are tight before you dirve anywhere. ie you must have a spanner in your boot with the car jack. 2. If they were all tight, then think about the wheel weights. Are yours on the outside of the wheel or inner (check all wheels)? If on the inner then you need to take off your wheels. You are looking for a bare (clean) patch where a weight may have been. (if so, then get balanced before you go anywhere, even consider using the spare wheel). None of those? 3. Possibly drive shaft joints? 4. Dead animal wraped around whell/shaft? Funny but could be true. 5. Wheel bearing - quite possibly. I'd avoid high speeds & motorway !!!

Right, thanks guys. I got to the bottom of the problem... I hope. Took me all sunday, hence I couldnt come to Inters both days. The caliper sliding pin had rusted in because the tiny rubber boot was split. Still unsure if piston is working ok, so wait and see. Wish I had the correct turning tool for that, but there were non at Inters either. For anyone who needs pics of the rear discs: , . Not sure I know enough to make a Wiki, however I went as follows: You require: 15mm open spanner, 13mm socket, Copper Grease, Locktite (or locking bolts to replace old), screwdriver, *correct Piston Return Tool. Ensure the car ignition is off before doing this. 1. Having jacked the rear of the car up and taken the wheel off you can see all you need. Ensuring the car is in reverse gear and the front wheels are chocked, you can take off the handbrake cable by removing the holding clip (pic B) and lifting the nipple out of the arm - the cable+clip maybe rusty so WD40 it and give a good tug. 2. Crack the two bolts (pic A) that hold the Caliper in place with the 13mm socket, whilst ensuring the inner bolts (pic C) do not turn with your 15mm spanner. Take these two bolts out. Lift caliper off (maybe rusted on so jiggle). Remove pads (again maybe rusted in). Pending what you are doing will change what you're doing next. I noticed my pin (pic C) that slides through a rubber boot (pic D) was not moving and not allowing the caliper to move thus keeping my brake on. The two pins should move in and out easily. 3. I removed the pin with great difficulty because of the rust. The boot should be pulled back first. I filed it down + emery, including inside the hole and greased up. If you're replacing pads, it seems you need the *caliper return tool. 4. Putting new pads on is easy. However (not so easy) Discs should be replaced if worn - this is a bigger job and I didnt go that far. However, note that the piston needs to be pushed back by using your *return tool. You need the holding spings off your old pads and put onto the new (maybe lightly grease too). Putting everything back in reverse there are a few pointers: a. grease where ever you can but not the face of the pads or disc. You can do the rear of the pad and sides. Ensure the pads slide easily upto the disc. b. ensure the (A) bolts have locking thread or similar.

Got any pics of it James? What is it running on for wheels and is it lowered atall? You can ruin any car. But I expect a reasonable slam would make handling better, as would some 17x7 alloys. But dont forget the ride will be much harder/harsh/bumpy.

How far slammed are you? ... but in a word (as long as you're not very low) yes. Try looking at the Wiki here (CLICK). See the offset diagram to understand the effect of ET35. And Chris's tyre guide may help some of your issues.

Right, did a search... - Clonk sound. - Clunk 2 - Steering Clunk - knocking _these tending to be more bearing related maybe. The Clunk/Clonk/Bang whatever tends to be naffed mounts allowing metal to hit metal or shot bearings. Is yours happening when cornering only? As said, jump on you car. eg open car door and stand on sill. Alternatively firmly lean on wing, being very careful. Hope it helps... although wishbone is a top idea Stu

I know you have searched, but I know this has been raised before. Will try to find it. Meanwhile - have you tried jumping up and down on that side of the car to make it creak? To try and pin-point the sound? Or is it forward motion related? ie - wheel hub/drive-shaft. I presume the mechanic you went to couldnt find it either....... ? From memory it could be: Engine mounts, top-mounts to suspension, wishbone mounts... seeing a Mount trend here, lol

David. The only reason I can think you ride would become harsh in your instance - as I presume "higher" means firmer - is because a shock that is too firm/stiff would prevent the car returning to its original hieght (ie shock & spring only half compressed) before you hit another bump, thus you are at the strong part of the spring much sooner - a recipie for a harsh ride on Brit bumpy Rds. Adjustables would be lovely; its all about budget for some people ;)

I know its "all about the girth" , but this is extreme. IMO the lights look too small.

cheers guys, WD40 + brakes = bad idea , lol. I know. Thanks Toad, shock can often break rust on a bolt, even hitting it to tighten firstly can really help. Will use Locktite to do them back up too - as The Book says to buy locking bolts. Copper slip on the shaft of the pins & bolts will prevent future rust. Glad to hear that the piston might wind back in with other methods. Obviously avoiding boooogering the outer shaft. Im still not super clued up on the piston. I take it that the piston should go back slightly of its own accord, to allow a cap between pad and disk in normal use. If I wind the piston back in, will it push back out when I put the brake on - will it need pumping?

Meanwhile Im taking the current ones off to see if they are just in need of a clean up. I checked my Lindsey book (so poor) and its fairly vague. I get the idea all you need to do is: Can anyone confirm? 1. Take the brake-cable off (how? is it screwed on) 2. Remove the two holding bolts on the caliper top part and lift off, showing the gubbins of the pads etc. Remove entire caliper. 3. Take pads off caliper (cant see any spring clips in book) 4. clean up pins, pads 5. look at piston, see if it has a rubber sheath over it. See if piston is rusty and thus broken seal. If not... 6. put back together* * do you have to screw the piston back in? And if so, does it require a special tool?

No, they dont have a bad rep. Im running some Bilsteins now and they are doing thier job very well.As my Bilstiens have a full length stroke, I can afford to drop the car on new springs by 20mm and use the same shock (you can't, as yours are broken /// either that or the person who fitted them chose a shock too soft, which is very unlikely). Just to clarify, as Im not sure if you're confused (as Mike E thinks too) - the SPRINGS are what will lower your car and give the harsh ride. The dampers are simply there to control the bound and rebound; the rebound being the rate at which the car springs back up having just run over a bump. Worn/knackered shocks mean the car will bounce back up on the springs and go back down a bit and up again (ie oscilating) ; like we often see American cars doing, lol (bouncy castle). However if you do lower the car, the correct length shock would be best advised. So yes, REPLACE your shocks, as they sound knackered. Even though they are not old, they've done a few miles (although 80k would be better). Good idea - see what else you can buy and afford. VR spec'd H&R springs on a Bilstein or Koni shock should be lovely!! ps - 25mm drop .... ooooh, I wonder if they does those for the 2.0L 16v ?? where did you see them?

Would love to know how they go RADO. asap There are a set due to go tomorrow with no bids on them. However he seems to sell them often - I saw some of his sell about 6 months ago; but bidding went up that time. If I miss these , I just hope the next set doesnt get bid on too - IF you say they're good. pics would help too (he doesnt show the backing)

Have you got this done? Is it worth doing? - my wish list just gets bigger every week on herelol

Just bought that cos my PS2 was so boring. Not impressed with GT4 that much but NBR track is cooooooool.

AGREED - I saw 120 for the first time in 12 months just the otehr day sat in traffic; but it came down to 100 once moving quickly. I was close to pulling over, but instead whacked the heater on full blast and had the sunroof open - it dropped to 117 straight away.

Perfectly normal. Mine does the same. As long as the fan kicks in up over 110, then it should be fine. Keep an eye on the water temp too - possibly consider pulling over and cutting the engine for a short while if you're in a traffic jam on a hot day and the temp goes over 115. This is when you find you had a dodgy hose and splits - so make sure they dont look shoddy now. As for the thread starter, a fixed fan will do the job (mostly).

ie - do you mean from the centre of the wheel (/hub) upto the arch (centrally)? Daytona has given from the top of the tyre there; at a guess it looks like 100mm (10cm). Does this mean we gotta do the maths now? LOL EDIT - sorry, he's posted again - me too slow. And yes Daytona, it DOES look quite high. Nothing stopping you dropping it a touch !! But what do you think of the current ride? --- atall harsh?

205/30 would be closer Mat. It might as well be a solid rubber like the old Penny Farthings, lol So is the VR offset 43 as standard? Either way cnut, you're talking tiny little milliteres, so 5-/+ can't make much difference. Sheesh, just look how people run either 195 or 205 tyres, theres 5mm (inside & out) straight away.

that almost looks like a CBR-RR (bike) on the floor on the pic. Nasty business. Porsche did fairly well I think. How long does it take for paramedics to get to said part of track?

I thought there was a guy there called Pete or somthing, who only works 1 day/week as hes gone over to the Commercail/Van dept.

Bally - what are the winter BBS you're running? They look just like the RC's still nice looking wheels. Need rid of them? The sebrings look nice and tat; as does the car. But thats gloomy winter weatehr for you. Whats with lack of # plate & electrical tape on fogs? I'm taking the BBS off this summer too. [did a search for Author: Bally , Topic: Gallery = 680 results] - lol

I'd rephrase your conversations in future. I hate calling people to sort stuff, its much better to go in person. Even my trust VAG dealer & GSF both manage to quote one price and part # then give a completely different one when I turn up. Conversation should go... -------------------------------- Me: Im after some quotes of spare parts for my Volkswagen Corrado VR6 (199X model), engine code XXXX? VW: Whats a Corrado? Me: Probably the best coupe car VW have made. VW: Are you sure? Me: True, its a matter of oppinion. Do you want the chassis number to prove it does exist? VW: Yeah, go on then. Me: An internal electric mirror switch, part of the drivers side door handle within the car door. VW: Hmm, can't seem to find it. Me: Ah, you must be new to the VW IT system; call in a senior member of staff please. ------ Me: Ok, I'll order these parts................, thanks. VW: Do you have the part numbers? Me: No, but you do. Click back and call them up again. VW: Sorry, what we're you wanting again? I've shut the system off and I haven't written down any of the part numbers, thought you just wanted a price. Me: Parts for my beloved VW. Whats your full name sonny? And get me your manager on the line. VW probable response: Billy, Billy-Joe-Bob. Whats a manager? I'll go get my daddy... :lol: