tonedef

When the timing was out on my valver by a tooth it ran pretty smooth but was flat until reved hard. Oh, and it used shed loads of fuel too.

You have to admit the letters are gonna put a lot of people off......................and you're going to get a bung???? :lol:

Pretty much like looking for any rare stuff for Corrados really, you just need patience to wait it out! Took me a year to find grey leather recaros but a pair came along in the end. I did see quite a few beige leather interiors while I was looking but the colour of many of them looked a bit patchy, I can certainly vouch for the refurb gear from http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/ if you do find some that look a bit tired don't be put off as it made mine look like new :)

Seconded :lol:

Which are now sitting in my garage waiting for a refurb and fit ready for next summer when I finally get away from this job in the desert :D

Yeah, but like Andy says above, the main benefits are from the dip beam, which should be pretty reasonable with the projectors in the In-Pros. What you might want to do is look into wiring them so that the dip stays on when you switch to main beam, so you have main and dip on at once. Depends how much out of town driving you do, I guess. That's just what I did, spliced a wire into the main beam feed to drive a relay and then spliced the output from the relay into the dip beam feed. That way I get dip beam staying on when main is on and if the relay ever fails the only thing I lose is the dim beam on main. Next step is to put HIDs into dip only for the full effect.

I did mine when I first bought them as I thought they were a bit too bling. I planned to do it by masking off what I didn't want to paint and then spraying with plastic primer/satin black after roughing things up a bit with a schotchbrite but found that my masking tape pulled off the silvering on the bit I tested. I could have waited to get some not very sticky msaking tape but instead was very careful with a brush and a couple of coats of hammerite smooth. Given the chance I think I'd have waited as I'm not 100% happy and may one day strip them and have another go! They strip down pretty easy and the angel eyes pop out too so that you can mask it up neatly, you just need the non-sticky tape.

So they're very out of sync too as mine was registered 1/11/05 but it's S 3701. Anyone know how many were made under each year?

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Well done that man 8)

Glad to see that cheese is challenging for the lead. C'mon cheese!!! :lol:

cheers for the link, had seen it listed on the bay before but wasn't sure if it was a kamei one or not Mine's an original kamei one bought around 12 years ago for almost three times the price of the one on the bay, looks like the same thing I'd say?

I used to own a Pearl Blue 16V the same as yours which was an L chassis number 6483, still wish I'd kept it when I bought the VR!

Can't make my mind up yet, some days I like the chrome badge as it sort of matches the black rimmed angel eyes, other days I'm not so sure. I'm 100% though about having to swap the indicators/fogs for some inpros, they look too old now!

I bought one from Halfrauds years ago for about £20. Used it all the time outside for maybe a year. Only use it now when I have a motor parked up in the garage and I don't want to have to keep dusting it. I'd say go for it, can't really go wrong at that price can you?

I'm going to have to get that cheque sent to rejoin CCGB, then I can see the website!

That's a bit like "Light Blue Touch Paper & Retire to a Safe Distance" :lol:

OK, so how's that work then? Mine's got to be one of the last made, sticker in the back dates it to 18th May 95, last digits of VIN: 003701 so as they made 97,521 Corrados how does my number figure?

That looks like something worth trying, I'm really impressed with the Jetex pollen filter the way it keeps the inside of the screen clean but as you say it's pretty small and rather pricy to swap out every year or so. How different are the fixings and do you have a part number on the moulding, might be easier than dragging round scrappers looking for Passats!

That's a thought, I'll check the clearance in the tensionner although it does drive the a/c compressor OK so I'd imagine it's fine? It's out for the day now so I'll have to check tonight.

I'm thinking that'll be the answer too, shame I tried to be clever and just swap the reg, means I have a spare one for the new alternator I guess!

Oh yes, and the battery is about three weeks old, damn forgot that bit, my dad picked it up for me while I was still away in Saudi, and it was £93 from Halfords! It's been like this for ages, could be a couple of years as I had it off the road last winter but for all that time it's been fine as long as you remember to start it charging by reving it (as soon as it's warm obviously). I'd finally decided to do something about fixing it and it turns out to be not as simple as it originally seemed.

I'm using a calibrated multimeter and could quote accurate figures too if you like! But seriously, yes the light works fine and I know it's not charging until I rev the motor, numbers in the region of: 12.8 volts everything off, 12.2 volts after it's started and 13.4 once the revs have gone over 3000 then everything's fine even at idle with lights and a/c etc switched on.

For ages now my alternator has not started charging until the engine revs go over 3,000. Pretty simple problem I thought, either the blue wire has no supply or the voltage reg is goosed. I checked the blue wire and found 12 volts so ordered a reg which I fitted this morning, start it up and I still have the same problem! Anyone had similar?

I swapped mine out when I did the cam chains job at 112K, the plate thickness of new clutch I bought looked identical to the one I was taking out. At the time I'd already owned the C six years and bought it with less than 50K on the clock so I can't believe it had one before.