tonedef

But does a folder full of receipts and a stamped service book stop a twelve year old car breaking? I think not. I used to live over the road from a fifty something year old guy, always bought his cars new, had them serviced on time at the main dealer, sold them after about three years, all looked well to an outsider. But there's no way I'd ever have bought one from him as he used to start it up every morning with his foot flat on the floor. Once it bounced off the rev limiter he may have lifted his foot off, sometimes his reactions were not so good and it may have stayed there bouncing for a couple of seconds, I'd be laying in bed cringing! None of that was ever documented in the service history.

I undertake all the time as I am not prepared to sit in the 65mph train running down the outside lane. If people cannot be courteous enough to move over it's not my problem, I move over for anybody who wants to pass me (not that it happens too often!) as I feel that maybe the next time they'll move over for me. We must be one of the worst countries in Europe for ignorant motorway driving, most other countries manage with mainly two lane motorways that flow at a higher speed than ours, I wonder why that is?

I did exactly the same job last winter although mine only got a new clutch as the gearbox is fine. Even then the clutch was a waste of money, at 113K it was no more worn than the new one I put in but you have to do it when it's in pieces don't you? The head gasket you're looking for is the one steel one off the Sharan, p/n 021 103 383 N £41.86 + VAT when I got mine 27th Oct last year.

How much is that in old money? :lol: :lol: :lol: Call it £1.60 per 4 litres, ball park.

102.9 for V-Power in Chesterfield. I filled the pickup with diesel at work two weeks ago, 60 litres for 12 Saudi Riyals. Exchange rate 7.6 Saudi Riyals to £1.00. Petrol doesn't cost a deal more, are we getting ripped or what???

You gotta say that was worth the effort, a real result 8)

I already went through this process and bought an S3 as a replacement. I figured at the time it was as close as VAG had come to a new Corrado and my VR was in need of retiring. After 15 months and some investment in the VR I sold the S3 even though real world it was the better car by a long way. Can't decide what I'll try next, probably a chipped diesel dog of a Golf/Bora/A3 for the big miles I'll probably pile up on the next contract. I'll not try getting rid of the Corrado next time though cos I'm know that's just not gonna happen :lol:

Just bolted a couple of my new wheels on for a quick check before they go for refurb. Always had a thing for Borbet Cs, about time I bought some :D

I bought one supposedly for a Corrado from ebay, turns out it's too big and I don't like the look (Golf I guess, p/n 1H6 853 679C) If anyone wants it, it's yours for the price of P&P.

Got the recaros in last night, well some time this morning when I'd done. Impressed with the refurb, they look quite a bit lighter on the photos but much closer in daylight, of course it'll take a few years for them to develop a bit of patina! But compared with standard, are they comfy or what???

No problem with all the questions, it's not like there's a lot of stuff to do in Saudi to keep me occupied. For the relays I used some from Halfrauds with a fuse in the base, will have to check the part number. I didn't cut any wires, just spliced into them so that the main beam power drives the relay, then I took cables direct from the battery through the switched contact and spliced them into the dip beam power supplies. That way if a relay dies or it's fuse blows dip and main will work just as before, it'll just not switch on dip with main. That's opposite to the way most uprated looms work as they are designed to supply full voltage to the dip beam. I fly home tonight so I'll check the wire colours, relay details etc and post them some time tomorrow night.

Picture me standing looking at my computer upside down :lol: Yes I think you're right and it is set for LHD in the picture, rotate the deflector in the direction of the arrow all the way to the other end of the slot then tighten the screw. Looking at your light from the back (as you'd be when driving your car) turn the whole thing upside down and the deflector will show which part of the beam it's going to cut off, you want the beam to be high on the left (curb side) and low on the right for oncoming traffic. To extend my adjusters I got some 10mm diameter bar 25mm long, drilled it 5mm through the centre and tapped it M6. Cut the adjusters in the centre and screwed each end into the extension pieces with locknuts to secure everything. I've got a fair bit more stuff in my garage than a lawnmower though! Once you've got them in the car you'll notice that on main beam only one half of the lights comes on, that's because the dip beam uses a single fillament H7 bulb rather than the standard H4. I fitted extra relays so that the dip stays on with the main beam, much better than before now. Next I'll be fitting HIDs into them for full effect :)

There's a circlip holds them in, just get hold of the loop and pull, it should come away pretty easy. Then the sensor pulls out. Did you get a new O ring for it too? Old ones don't like being disturbed too much.

Man you've taken them to bits further than I did and I painted the insides black! The deflector needs to stay at the bottom as the beams's inverted by the lens so if you put it at the top the road'll be black in front of you and nobody else will be able to see anything but your lights. It just adjusts from one end of the slot to the other to set the cut off from left side of the road to right, that's what it means by loosen the adjustable screw.

Mine's pretty low on coilovers and I used to get probems with the magnex hitting the body or rear axle. I ended up fitting extra rubbers wherever I could just to stop the exhaust bouncing so much over bumps.

Sounds like it could be in the fuse box/relay plate, sure someone'll be along soon with a good idea of where to start looking, I'm seven hours on a plane from my wiring diagrams or could have a look! Welcome to Corrado owning and the forum anyway, you're in the right place for answers :) This might help

My speedlines were just over £200 at Pristine and one of them needed a repair

Mine came set for RHD already although everyone says how easy they are to swap. Biggest problem I found was getting them to dip far enough, I ended up extending the adjusters by about 15mm to see anything but trees!

Or visit them with a baseball bat if they're not :lol:

I sent my Speedlines to Pristine through an agent in Doncaster early this year and well well impressed with the results. However when I got them back I took them to my mates tyre place for fitting only to find that he was also an agent for Pristine but had recently stopped sending wheels to them as too many had come back as you describe. He didn't say anything about paying for returns but he was looking for a new place to send refurbs to.

Just looked on Ebay UK and there's a Schrick with two days to go currently at £330 or so

Hold out for a Schrick as they do come up for the right money occasionally, I played the waiting game and ended up buying one from German Ebay for just over £700. Well worth the wait in my opinion.

Well for starters it's a dash out job due to the size of the heat exchanger, the fuse box has to be pulled out to get a load of extra wiring in, one of the heater ducts had to have an extra actuated flap fitted in it and a sunlight sensor plus interior temp sensor had to be grafted into the dash. The control panel sort of fitted where the original heater controls came out although it had to be modded a bit. The heat exchanger/fan box is huge compared with the original so the glove box is now only half the depth it was before and I've only got about 20mm of the lower shelf left on the passenger side. Under the bonnet there's about five extra wires had to go into the fan controller, an extra temp sensor in one of the coolant lines, a different sensor in the thermostat housing (four pin item replaces an original two pin one), extra outside air temp sensor and wiring to the compressor clutch. Then there's a vacuum tank to squeeze in, the condensor to fit (nightmare) and the drier canister to get in plus all the pipework (vacuum and refrigerant) to route. Power it up, plug in vagcom and pray you can clear all the fault codes, get it gassed up and you're done 8) As I said, a little complex!

1) Insert ignition key. 2) Twist clockwise. 3) Drive.

Sounds rather optimistic to me too, both price and power claim, I'd be wanting the whole drive train thrown in for that money! As for power you're as well getting the AMK 210 bhp engine as a chip will have both versions topping out at say 265 bhp