tonedef

It's a real clean stop, definitely electrical, if you've managed to get any revs before the cut you see the tacho needle drop straight to zero, not run down with the revs. No coughing etc. It used to do it before very occasionally but would normally go if left a couple of minutes on a real bad day or second third try usually. Tonight it's just refusing point blank, shame really, we had a table booked for Tapas and now I've got the lower dash out. My wife and kids are going out in the Ka to fetch take away!

Thanks for the quick reply Toad, checked fuse 16, yes it's 15amp but unfortunately it's fine. It is a late VR, the inspection date on the sticker says 18th May 95 so it's one of the last ones built, I'd love to try the transponder coil but with the best will in the world I doubt it'd get here until Friday earliest and I leave the coutry for five/six months on Saturday morning, I'll have to try to buy one from VW first thing tomorrow.

Typical, I bought an S3 to replace the VR, but then had a change of heart, sold the S3 and kept the Corrado. Just over a week later it's up to it's old tricks again: Starts up no problem, runs for 2 seconds and cuts out, been trying the last 30 minutes to start it but no joy. Anyone got any ideas as I really need to fix this cos I'm off to Saudi at the weekend leaving me wife with a car that refuses to play :(

If the pedal pumps up then there's air in it, simple as that. Did you do the rears with the balance valve compressed to ensure a good flow to them, did you bleed the nipples on the ABS pump and the master cylinder? Brake bleeding is hardly rocket science although it can sometimes take a little perseverance.

You could try a set of plugs and always make sure you fill up with super unleaded, apart from that cheaply and VR6 tuning rarely occur in the same sentence I'm afraid :(

It doesn't take too much punishment, I picked up a Schrick VGI from German ebay for under £750 inc postage, fitted it myself and did an ECU reset jobbie. There was a bit of pinking on the first full throttle run and nothing after that, seems a reasonable price to pay to me. There's been a few for sale on here recently, get one bought and make yourself happy! Hmm, maybe after the honeymoon period, for now I use as much if not more :lol: I'll be sticking a set of cams in next and then maybe it really should be remap time.

I'm not convinced by these as I seem to have two types of puncture neither of which would have used a can of foam: 1) Nail in tyre, normally OK until you pull out the nail, I spotted one a few Fridays ago in my back tyre and still drove 250 miles home from work with no problem, therefore no need of foam. 2) 95mph motorway outside lane blowout, no tyre left to squirt foam into!

All this team mate thing is bull, your team mate is always the most important person to beat as it proves who's the best driver when you're both in the same car. I used to work on the Grp N Mitsubishi Evos in the British Championship for Ralliart and saw first hand what beating the team mate meant to drivers :lol:

Welcome to the forum. Best place to get some adjusters I'd have thought would be the dealers although I just looked at ETKA and can't seem to be able to find a part number for them, I have the instructions that came with mine and there's a part number listed there, I can check tomorrow when I get home if you still need it. Hope you have a bit more success than me with them though, I had to make some extension pieces for the adjusting screws as I couldn't get the beam anywhere near low enough to start with. They're OK now but did have to extended by over 10mm so I wasn't just lighting trees.

Don't know as I've not bought any yet! Hoping that because my dip beam is on all the time it'll make no difference, imagine it would be a problem if you were using the standard Inpro setup though?

I haven't fitted HIDs to my Inpros yet but I did mod the wiring a bit when I installed them to have both lamps on with main beam. I simply spliced a wire into the main beam wires (white on RHS, white/black on LHS) to switch a pair of relays, the output from the relays then splices back into the low beam lights (yellow on RHS, yellow black on LHS). On low beam the projector lights using the standard wiring, on high beam it switches through the relay, if the relay fails I will still have the high beam. Must try it with HIDs next :lol:

Very nice, would like to upgrade to the new one at some stage. Mine had to go for two reasons: 1) Off to Saudi for a while so too many cars on the drive! 2) Done over 20K miles in it in the last year so thought I'd better part before the mileage gets ridiculous.

I sold mine today, gutted, I almost felt like crying as I watched it drive away. Time to plan for what to have next, I feel a diesel dog coming on.

That's a proper result you had there, free aircon! Just take a look in Yellow Pages under "Car Air Conditioning" for the one nearest you, there'll be zillions around you.

Hello and welcome, hmmm, blackberry 8)

yeah ive got these on my dash board just below the my heated seat controls, is this it? if so i thought it was for the seats. anyway how does this work then?? when you press norm or max is the aircon on then?? And at the same time you post to say you've found the buttons! Straight to the a/c place then and get it vac checked and gassed 8)

I hate to be negative here but does nobody else think that if the buttons are missing there's a fair chance that someone has removed them at some stage due to a problem with the a/c? It's not like the Diavia install is the most reliable part ever fitted to a Corrado is it??? Probably the best place to start is and aircon specialist, see if the system will vac down and hold vac first. If it does you're onto a winner. Do a search on here and you should be able to find the Diavia wiring diags, check out all the wiring and give it a try. All you're waiting for then is a summer to test it on :lol:

You said just what I was thinking there dinkus, in a loud colour with the right alloys it could still be pretty close to the original concept. At the end of the day, VW are in the market to make money, if they go with something really radical and too expensive they'll be in danger of selling even less Scirocco Mk4s than they did Mk3s.

That's the one.

Back in the days when this thread was about getting the head skimmed (sorry,"resurfaced") I'd have said that there's no point thinking about compression ratios when skimming, (sorry, resurfacing) a VR head as it's flat, has no combustion chambers and therefore makes no difference to compression ratios how much you skim (sorry, resurface) off. As it is now about lasagne I have to disagree with said cheese mix and suggest mature cheddar and fresh parmesan :lol: Oh, and Magnex.

They should be the same in all Corrados, nothing specific about the valver as far as I know. I used a Jetex one because AFAIK VAG don't make one that fits. Ordered it direct from Jetex for about £20 delivered. http://www.jetex.co.uk/website/pollenfilters.php?mak=Volkswagen&mod=Corrado&qty_260=1

Hahahahahahaha, that's all about to change, you think VR6 is pulling yer leg pointing you at all the where to go to fix it forums :lol: :lol: :lol: Enjoy anyway, you're in good company here 8)

You should always measure from the wheel centre to the lip of the wheel arch anyway, that then ignores any variation in wheels/tyres.

Fixed mine with supreglue, still OK seven months later.

That was the colour of my first Corrado, a 1990 valver. IMO the best colour they ever came in, wonder if I still have the touch up stick somewhere?