tonedef

I had 10x6 white Weller 8 spokes on me Mini. Bloody hell that were a long time ago!

Checked mine last week, the fan cut in at 86 degrees so you're in company :)

This might be a really stupid question but you are getting full throttle opening with the pedal pressed right down aren't you???

In one episode they take a new motor out to the desert and Mike talks about last time he was there he had a big accident and had to be airlifted to hospital. His face is all made up with plates and he was only just starting to get some movement back. Not sure when they were filmed but as Blue_Joe said, you also see him working for Foose so maybe he had too much of Dwayne too!

But due to the big accident he had it left him with no muscles left in his face IIRC so you can't really comment one that!! I realise that and I'm not knocking him for it at all, it's not just his face anyway, his voice is the same and everything, him and bluebear were real chalk and cheese.

You gotta say that Boyd and Dwayne possibly skipped people skills lessons, I'm surprised anyone stays there to take that type of abuse. Foose has so much talent, the drawings he produces, awesome! Mike's the best, I know he had some big accident but have you ever know anyone with less expression?

I recently rebuilt my motor with a Sharan HG and no skim, it didn't seal as I had a gas leak by number 1 cyl. Took it to bits again and there was no obvious reason for the leak but had it skimmed and this time used a Corrado gasket, everything's OK now. I don't believe the Sharan gasket was at fault, I just wasn't brave enough the second time! Anyway, a simple clean up skim of .008" cost me £28.44 inc VAT which compared with head bolts, gasket, stem seals etc was not much money. If you're doing a gasket, have it skimmed for peace of mind.

You have to say they're not too good at figuring out the wheel sizes! X2B = national sales program Great Britain B0N = component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts C5K = alloy wheels 9J x 19 G0C = 5-speed manual transmission H1V = TYRES 205/50 R 15 V J1L = battery 280 A (60 Ah) Q1D = sports front seats 1AE = electronic differential lock (EDL/ABS) 1G9 = space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole) 1MV = leather steering wheel 3AE = outer right rear view mirror: flat, powered, heated 3BF = outer left rear view mirror: convex, powered, heated T6Q = components for, base engine, unit 021.D 3FD = electric sliding/pop-up sunroof 9BA = without additional electric safety package 9HA = without additional malfunction display 9C2 = without special low beam mode but with "coming and leaving home" function for ROW" 8GD = alternator 90A 8RL = six loudspeakers (passive) 8TD = rear fog light for driving on the left 4A3 = seat heater for front seats separately controlled 8BF = halogen headlight for driving on the left 8WD = integrated front fog light 1BA = standard suspension/shock absorption and the S3 E0A = no special edition 7A0 = without CD changer/CD player 4UF = drivers and front passenger airbag with front passenger airbag deactivation 6XD = outer rear view mirrors: powered, heated 5SJ = outer left rear view mirror: convex 6TS = outer right rear view mirror: non-spherical, large viewing field 1KF = disc brakes, rear J1L = battery 280 A (60 Ah) 1LT = disc brakes, front 1AT = electronic stabilization program (ESP) 3FE = electric slide/tilt sunroof with sun screen/sunblind 1JF = rear sports shock absorption G21 = front shock absorption 5TL = decorative inserts in piano lacquer 7X0 = without park distance control 4R1 = power windows F0A = no special purpose vehicle, standard equipment 0L2 = electric throttle actuation 8GL = alternator 120A 0G4 = cable gearshift 0YP = weight category rear axle weight range 13 L21 = suspension range 21 T6B = components for, base engine, unit 06A.G 3NC = rear seat bench/backrest, split folding 8JJ = headlight with gas discharge lamp for driving on the left U1B = instrument insert with mph speedometer, clock, tachometer and trip odometer X2B = national sales program Great Britain 1N4 = power steering 2PL = leather trimmed sports steering wheel for airbag system with "S" badge" 8Q2 = automatic headlight-range adjustment static 9Q2 = multi-function indicator/on-board computer with check control 8Z5 = engine cooling system, type 1 MK1 = 4-cylinder turbo gas. engine 1.8 L/154 kW 20V appendix EU 3, base engine is T6B 7Q0 = without navigation device C4F = alloy wheels 7 1/2J x 17 "S" offset 32" 4X3 = side airbag front with curtain airbag 6R2 = leather gearshift boot 3L7 = electric height and backrest adjustment for both front seats 4K4 = radio remote controlled central locking operated from inside and separate trunk release 5D1 = carrier frequency *** MHz 1SA = without additional engine guard 0GE = emissions concept EU 3 Q1E = Recaro sports seats, front QG1 = service interval prolongation 4GP = windshield tinted with sun band and viewing window for vehicle identification number

Fair enough, was trying to picture it without going into the cold to take a look!

I don't mind being wrong here but surely the intake temp will remain the same as that's measured at the MAF? Or is there another inlet temp measurement. It would only prove anything if you could actually measure the temp at the runner.

Voted!

A few years ago I was arguing with my wife and slammed the hatchback down on my old valver so hard that I smashed the glass! Took it in to have it swapped expecting to have to pay, turned out I was covered. Checking your cover first might be an idea though. :wink:

Snap On make special tapered splined sockets for this job that when used with an impact gun will take most studs out. Any tyre place will normally have them.

Did mine without taking the front panel out, took me 6 hours, a real nightmare! Then I saw how the front panel came out, reckon you'd do it easilly in half that time. Grill off, headlights out, bumper off, front panel out and it's there in front of you.

Can I get a bacon and egg sandwich instead?

I'll go the other way and say Magnex, had mine fitted for quite a few years now and it's excellent. Subtle too. That said I had a Supersprint on the valver about ten years ago, no complaints other than the dustbin sticking out from the back bumper, not one bit subtle!

Check all the plastic mouldings around the thermostat housing, temp sensors etc. I had a whole load of fun with those last year and ended up replacing the lot. I'd done the rad the year before too! Just get your engine hot, ticking over with the thermostat open and look around everywhere with a torch, chances are you'll see it squirting out somewhere. What's the system pressure like, can you squeeze the hoses OK? If not, and you haven't already, swap to a blue expansion tank cap as you could be running too much pressure.

I was looking at a new S3 last week, I can see myself owning one of those some time. CoxyLaad It takes very little for the display to read low single figures, unlike the one in the Corrado the mpg is instantaneous and can as you suggest be horrific! It's fun though. One advantage with the Revo map is that you can switch it to standard settings if required, gives the clutch an easier life if you're in the habit of launching the car too often, I've got a paddle clutch fitted to help but it can be a bit grabby. Whichever setting I use though the fuel economy seems similar. I didn't buy a TT as I have to keep the kids somewhere other than the boot, without them it would have been a 911 a long time ago 8)

The 225 varies slightly from the 210 by having VVT, not that it benefits as IIRC it's only to improve emissions at low rpm. Chipped they're the same. Not sure about this better economy after chipping lark, no point having it chipped to drive it more economically is there? I'm pretty sure the VR6 returns generally better figures although I don't take that much notice. In fact I have to admit to not really caring that much, if you want economy, buy a TDi.

Don't give her the option, borrow the Ford, shunt it, job done!

Walesy You're spot on there offering to hold onto Trig's VR for him, I planned to sell mine until I realised it had lost about £10K since I bought it. Plus my wife prefers it over the S3 so she's having it, although she has become quite attached to climate control hence the enjoyment I've had the last month squeezing climatronic in!

Check on the Ross Tech website for compatability with your cars and which interface you'll need, not sure but the 2005 Leon may need CAN-bus and I don't know if everything is backwards compatible? I bought my cable from ebay, a German seller rather than an American one even though the price was a few pounds more at £22 (ish) but as it's EU you know there'll be no extra duty to pay. I downloaded release 409-1 from Ross Tech and registered it for $99 once I knew it worked OK. The cable I have is serial rather than USB as I tend to trust serial more, depends what ports you have on your laptop I guess!

That would make a stunning Christmas present for someone very small!

Don't be fooled too much by all the hype, Audis have their snags the same as anything else, you only have to read the audi sport forum to know that. I love my S3, it's a brilliant motor and I bought it because to me it was as close as VAG were to building a Corrado succesor. There are probably as many rattles and creaks in the S3 as the Corrado, I've had all the interior behind the front seats out and so far failed to stop one of them. I've had to buy level sensors and levelling motors for the headlights as they were setting themselves at a "super dipped" position lighting up the road three feet in front of the car. Vagcom and the ability to use it becomes a necessity rather than the luxury it was with a Corrado. The handling needs some attention, much more so than when I bought my Corrado in fact. And then there's servicing, I bought a car with full Audi history so I'll keep that up, it's on variable servicing so approx 20,000 miles between visits (I do the oil/filter myself in between even though Audi say there's no need). It went in the dealers in May for service which included a cam belt and water pump, haldex service, tracking, the total including a replacement key (over £200) was almost £1,800, even the Corrado costs less than that to keep on the road 2 years. :lol:

My Speedlines have just been done by Pristine in Milton Keynes. You don't have to take them to MK though, phone them up and they'll tell you the nearest agent who'll strip/refit tyres and organise shipping etc. Cost me £214 for the set and one of mine had to be repaired too. And they look like new wheels, I was well impressed. http://www.pristinealloywheels.co.uk/