dr_mat

I seem to remember thinking that at the time, too .. Don't know if it is, or it's just a generic shape of car.

Probably the relay for the HID kit. They are usually cheap crap ...

If the battery is totally flat, you'll need some REALLY heavy jump leads to start the car. Two sets would not be out of order ... Best bet is to cable up and have the car ready for a jump start and leave it to charge the battery for 15 minutes before actually attempting to do the start. You need to be able to pull ~200 amps down the jump leads otherwise..

Nightmare, and .. well done for getting them to pay for the work you've managed to get them to do. I may have cut my losses and got out of there at that point though. Yes they should have changed the cam belt JUST because it's a "wear" item and it was off anyway, but I don't think there's any big deal on leaving it on the car for now. I don't think I'd have bought the spare part either - I think I'd have let them dispose of the evidence and settled with a warm smug feeling that you were right all along and they tacitly admitted it by agreeing to do the work for free. Take lots of really good photographs, if you feel the need, then walk away and never look back.. !

That's probably true, given the way the original VR bushes were designed to flex.

It was ground breaking because of the scale of universe, which simply didn't fit in the computer it was running on ..

Vince fitted this combo onto my VR late last year, and it's a brilliant mod. Very happy with the control improvement. To be fair, my old bushes were pretty shot, but still, this feels way better than the car ever did. You can brake hard on a rutted road without the car squirming like a ....

It's an old car, and it's NA - the gains are marginal and people's pockets aren't deep. Paying to rechip when you'll gain 5bhp is a luxury most can't be bothered with when any modern 20vT will give you 100bhp for the same money. The engine tuners can't make much money by knowing about these old engines. Stealth are different - they are *so* hooked into the Corrado "scene" that it's well worth his while.

I'm sure even a turbo, 4x4 VR can do better than 20mpg on a decent long cruise. What an awesome plaything .. :)

It's easier to justify when you're travelling from darn sarf.. the 140 mile round trip is worth it for the saving on two hours labour for me ..

Standard VR gearbox mount used to be even more than that, I'm sure that's come down .. I don't really remember where the whine is most evident now, I've obviously totally got used to it (it was over four years ago!). I've not driven other VRs so can't remember the difference any more..

A lot of folks around here will recommend the solid mk3 GB mount instead of the original oil-filled mount as used on the Corrado. I can't comment on the handling difference (the old mount was shot, so it's impossible to compare!), but I can tell you that there is a small increase in gearbox whine transmitted to the cabin if you go that route. You'd get used to it, it's not massive but just be aware.

It's mandated in EU law that a car manufacturer cannot sell a car with a speedo that *under* reads, so they ALL overread by at least 5%. This is their margin for error (e.g. flat tyres, individual speedo calibrations). It's completely normal and provides you with a psychological buffer zone between you and your next speeding ticket ..

Never had any praise for my Corrado, only requests to sell it .. ! At least mine does turn its wheels regularly, just not every day.

I can understand the mothering instinct of petrolheads wanting to save the car from its slightly grotty fate, but really ... They can't possibly know that mechanically it is lavished on .. (After all, I bought the car to drive, not to look at. Ironic and slightly sad that I don't drive it much now!) Clearly I need a car cover that looks like a Ford Focus to put over it. 1) it'll stop the weather getting to it and 2) it'll prevent the car being desirable in any way whatsoever ..

Yeah, I'm tempted to put a sign in tbh.. This is getting silly. ---------- Post added at 10:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 PM ---------- I mean, does anyone else get asked if their car is for sale all the time? My dad's never been asked if his immaculate 12 plate Focus is for sale ..

I've also heard that the oil pump drive shaft off the intermediate pulley on the timing chains can go clattery. My VR6 has a clatter/rattle that comes from the back of the block/head area and I'm assuming that's it. The clatter/rattle has remained identical through replacing the chains/guides, and the tappets (three times).

**** off. ;)

Dear universe, Just because my car sits on my drive, doesn't get washed, doesn't get polished, has to be charged with a cable out the window, and sits on slowly deflating tyres on my driveway, that doesn't mean I want to get rid... Got it? FFS.

Google knows way more random answers than this lot.. :)

Nah, the idle is controlled by the ECU. More likely you knocked a temperature sensor and it's running it in warm-up mode all the time. Is it running monster rich and sucking at fuel economy?

Heh, totally circular arguments.. 1) Apple are assholes in business 2) Everyone likes Apple products It's a cognitive dissonance that some people can't cope with. I choose to rate point #1 above point 2 and would never give my money to the Jobs memorial fund. Others rate #2 above #1 and couldn't give a crap what Apple's business model is, they just have to have the shiny thing. It would only take Apple STOPPING being assholes and they would win over the rest of the haters with their products instead of their lawyers. As it stands their assholery is driving a lot of smart, wealthy people into the hands of their competitors. ---------- Post added at 5:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:09 PM ---------- I would go so far as to say it's almost nothing to do with the technology any more - they're all about the same in reality.

Hmm, odd. I still don't think the fault description matches the factory immobiliser though. It may well be your ECU is plain faulty tho, it happens.

Since the immobiliser is in the ECU, you can flash a new code to it .. if you have the right gear. Just send it in with a key. Coding the ECU to a key is easier than creating three new keys coded to your ECU. I take it your sparks didn't have an ECU fault code reader. If the ECU immobiliser is kicking in it'll report this as a fault. ---------- Post added at 8:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:00 PM ---------- (Sorry, I should have responded sooner to prevent the bad jokes.. :) )

Putting the cams in without a remap will get you home, and will net you a small performance gain, but it won't be the full picture and the engine will be forced to adapt all the time. Ironically it'll probably run better on part throttle than on full throttle because at least it will go closed loop and use the lambda to control fuelling. I don't think OBD1 does at full throttle, so the map has to be right.