Erny

There only plastic so you can alter them to work with a rolled lip, bit of plastic welding and apply heat in the right areas

You got a price pal?

I'm lookin for a set of fully functioning vr6 clocks, closer to Sheffield the better, I dint have paypal but can do bank transfers, cheers

Thanks for the reply, had a feeling they were tucked away there, I've had a vr6 in now for awhile. And had a vag com plug from a mk4 in my glove box waiting to be wired in for just as long, a local lads breaking a vr6 so I figured ied just take his loom to save any splicing and thinking.

Can someone confirm that the vag-com connection is by the shifter on corrados, my early valver didnt come with it and I plan to fit it,

You sackin off your wipers or have you got a cunning plan? We've been weighing up options for a tucked away set-up for awhile.

This is on behalf of a freind, any colour will do but LCU5 blue idealy, he's located in conisborough near Doncaster, his number is 07545 165222 drop him a txt. With price and location. Much appreciated erny

Yeh thanks pal ied totally forgot about askin neil, only the other day I was askin about his shell.

As above, I'm after petrol tank and pump and lines if you have them, closer to Sheffield the better, cheers

Lookin for a g60 arb to help stiffen up the front end of my car, closer to Sheffield the better, cash burning a hole in my pocket, if must post I can set up a bank transfer as I don't have paypal. Cheers

I'm feeling this, nothing like the simple driveway tuneability of k-jet, only a few wires needed to run it and no need to be plugging lap tops in everytime a sensor sh*ts the bed, wish my vr was on k-jet too, I heard that early krs (in mk2s) ecus were less restrictive, could explain why your standard one ran 154 kev,

Early 1.8 kr manifolds are larger than Later 1.8 krs and 2.0l 9a manifolds and both can be switched, 2.0l abf manifolds are different due to the differnt engine management all will bolt up to te heads just the same but as I said above the abf one cannot be used with k-jet or ke-motronic, and vise versa

I had a vr6 flywheel lightened and ballenced by hotgolf on clubgti, did an excellant job, cost was around 70quid, and it's almost half it's original wieght, the turn around time was quick too. it is very notice able difference, idles fine, revs up alot faster and the revs drop off just as fast, but you get used to it fairly quick, other people stall my car as there not used to revs dropping off so quick, I use the car as a daily and it's fine, I expected more of a difference in a negative way for daily driving but it's not all that differnent, I also noticed the front end of the at being lighter whilst turning corners at speed which is a bonus. My friends mk2 8v daily has one aswel and his is fine also ied personally recomend it

If you have anyluck finding a BMW rad that fits please share, I took a tape measure round my local scrappy but all were too big, would fit if you had them leaning back towards the engine but I didn't realy like that option.

I'm pretty sure that 16v head on a 8v block gives you low compression, which means it would be shit naturally aspirated, but ready to go for forced induction, (maybe be wrong and what I said above only applys to certain 8v blocks)

If your confident with vr6 engine timing you can simply swap engine looms, and ecus, swap the end plate that the dizzy/coilpack bolts to and swap cams, this way your engine can stay sat were it is an should only take half a day, you will need help getting the loom past the bulkhead. Otherwise just swap the whole lot As you plan following the steps in the above posts

I found it hard to find a BMW rad that fit well into the front of the corrado, you could just get one of those t-pieces that you cut into the higest point of pipe work, with the correct pressure rating cap, but if that makes u a little nervous, along with this option you can also have an over flow into a almost empty small can for when the pressure in the system rises, you would require the pipe into the can to be fully submerged all the time to allow fr pulling water back into the system when the pressure drops. Alternativly you could have a strut brace made up which is also a header tank like big rons mk1,

Not a chance in he'll that engine is putting out 200horseys, that it a fair challenge for any valver never mind a 1.8 as many on this forum will know, them figures are pub talk, I can't imagine it's even fair to say it's a power to wieght ratio, there would be pictures of the engine and a much better spec list, lovely lookin car none the less. I was disapointed not to see pics of the engine, I'm sure that's top of his list for next years show season tho

I've currently got one of each wings on the front of my car, the difference is massive, but many don't notice, the later bonnet sits evenly along the early wing, new wings were nearly 300 from the dealer when my car got kicked in. Bonus is they don't come with repeaters holes.

for your own future reference, that sound will be your fuel pump priming. Handy to know the next time something breaks

Not wanting to nit pick but what is the advantage of converting from four stud to five and keeping the existing "narrow track" set up? You can already get 280 and larger brake set-ups in four stud, a larger selection of wheels in four stud. I can see why you might choose to fit widetrack (and end up with 5stud) apparently better handleing due to the wider track an extra castor. And I can see why you would convert hubs from five to four with widetrack.(opposite of this topic) Can someone shed alittle light please, good work by the way.

You can straight swap engines, loom ecu etc, if you want to swap one engine from distributor to coilpack you definatly have to swap the rear cam and top chain cover, so you need to be carefully to not disrupt engine timing, as for wiring you can swap looms and ecus aswel or if your good with wiring there's somthing like 3wires to alter on the distributor loom to change it to respond to the cam sensor, sure someone else could clarify this, as for using the distributor ecu to run the coilpack engine, I can't say for sure I've a distributor ecu spar I keep meaning to try on my coilpack engine, not sure if it will work but I'm sure if it will it would benifit from a remap as the coilpack ecus are more refined hope this helps alittle

unfortunatley vag com isn't an option at the minute, My vr6 has a missfire, the miss isn't plug lead or coilpack related, is also runs very hot, hotter than normal. which I worrying me, I'm guessing it's running lean, so it isn't moving off the spot and will only be running for short time while testing and trying to diagnose as it stands I recently aquired a low mileage automatic engine, ran fine before. I replaced all chains and tenioners, lightened flywheel and new clutch, new tappets and 268cams new oil etc etc, timing is spot on. Also turned it over by hand loads to stay on the safe side of caution. I plan to get another cam sensor tomorrow, can anyone suggest any other parts/sensors which can cause this or any suggestions at all, any help is greatly appreciated

There fine pal, for peice of mind read this. http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=137879.0

Have u ran it up to temp and let it cool with out your header tank cap on, as I said before that's a kinda safe way of getting airlocks out, valvers can be difficult to get em outta, a walk round your local scrappy or ask a mate if you can borrow there header tank cap to check, it seems to be more of a 8v fault for some strange reason but it's a cheap easy/free thing to rule out, worst case scenerio you've blown your headgasket by fixing something, weird.