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Everything posted by fendervg

  1. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    No smoking! Carb spray on likely suspects can also work.
  2. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    The code you are thinking of that always comes up with the engine not running is: DTC "00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal" This is for the crank position sensor at the front bottom of the block, and shows up because it is obviously not getting a signal so can be ignored. It will go awat as soon as the engine is turning. For the one above, I would check the MAF, replace with a known good one if possible as a test, check fuel pressure and also test for air leaks anywhere in the inlet - you can also get a vacuum gauge that you can plumb in with a t-piece to measure the manifold pressure.
  3. I think all the different third-party lens types have been tried and none of them fit properly without modification, hence why the best option now is expensive custom replacement lenses. For early type fogs, there are a number of options, but for the late ones you will likely have to break the old lens to remove, even after heating the glue, and any replacement lenses will need to be ground to fit. which takea a long time at home wirth a dremel and risks breaking them. I wonder would it be more sensible to put some pressure on Classic Parts to see if they are willing to remake them?
  4. fendervg

    ISV/IAC valve

    Yep, any air getting in after the MAF will cause problems with idle, as eventually it will exceed the ability of the ISV to compensate. Most likely culprits are the small hoste from the FPR to the inlet manifold, the ISV damper box and tubing, PCV and associated pipework and the brake servo and related hoses.
  5. Usually they are happy with bank transfer via IBAN and BIC, even if they don't do PP. Shame you missed out on the kit.
  6. I can remove if needed - I think one or two pages should be fine for fair use, it's not the whole book after all. Plus I can prove I own one and paid for it. If it's an issue let me know. Save as
  7. This one for the VR6 "plus-achsel" wide track suspension
  8. Some torque settings to be found here: https://wiki.the-corrado.net/torque_settings_and_bolt_sizes.html
  9. I run 15" OEM Speedlines with 288s with no fouling issues - it's tight, but the tyre shop just used a different profile balance weight and put somewhere else on the rim.
  10. Yeah, the 288s should have a spring clip bonded onto the back of the inner pad that sits into the piston. Are those spacers on there? Just wondring if they coudl be causing an issue with clearance, but unlikely - assuming you are runing 16/17s
  11. Check none of the pistons are seized - the front pads should also have a spring clip with 3 legs attached on the pad facing the piston that sit into the pistion seat itself. Also the calliper sliding pins should move freely, especially on the rears.
  12. Is it just a block of foam shaped lie the first aid kit? Might be interested - thinking of mounting a CD changer in there, so this might be useful....
  13. Ha ha - I have mine at least 8 years I think - got them from ARZ back in the day. My plan was to fit same as yours uing this template as a guide - top shows the US profile and bottom the standard one. Great tip on removing the wiper and using those wires to feed the brake light though. One day hopefully......
  14. US tailgate or did you cut using the template that’s floating around the web? Tempted to start on mine straight away now!
  15. High level light is very nice - I have the parts (light unit, loom and bracket) but haven't gotten around to fitting yet - did you mod the tailgate or by the US version?
  16. fendervg

    dash speakers

    I had a JBL GT507C set for a Golf that I used the door and rear speakers from, they came with crossovers and some small tweeters that look like they would fit, but the mounting would need some modding. To be honest, the sound platform there is so poor with the tweeters pointing at the windscreen that it's not really worth it - go for decent components, and put the tweeters in the pillar trim or door and you will find that gives good results.
  17. They are just bog standard fuel pump relays - the VW part number might have changed at this stage, but they are used all over the place and any parts shop should have one. 167 or 67 should do the trick. You'll find the same relay in SEAT, Audi, VW and countless others.
  18. Mmm, juicy shoes - wow, nearly 4000DM, close to two grand's worth. Is that your car - they seem well proud of the wheel arches, are there spacers on?
  19. Sorry, meant to say they are not actually stretched really, that was just me - they are PS3 Michelins, very good, but you do notice the 10mm per wheel believe it or not. I used to use Pirelli P6000/9000 before, but they no longer make them in the size - they were excellent in both the wet and dry.
  20. I have 195s stretched on at the moment on original rims, but would prefer the 205 for that little bit of extra width - Uniroyal Rainsports were the last ones I saw. Michelin are now doing the PS series for classic cars, they don't have a 205 yet, but might add one soon.
  21. for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol: You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!
  22. Controls or the resistor on the fan blower motor? What are your symptoms? To remove the controls, gently lever off the trim cover surround, the dials stay in place and you will see four screws holding it in - the mounts for these often break though. The unit will then lift out, but only a bit if the control cables are still attached. The resistor fix for missing a single speed is easily doen and well documented on the web as other VWs had the same issue - if the controls are the rotary ones, it's more tricky - they are very fragile and the cog teeth tend to break if the knob is forced in any way. They operate using three bowden cables to the flaps on the heater matrix and often get stuck -the fix would be to replace the cables and sleeves, make sure all the control flaps move freely and then check the internals of the dial unit for damage and try to repair with epoxy. The units are LHD and RHD specific and almost impossible to get hold of new - and unfortunately specific to the later cars.
  23. Not an easy one I'm afraid - but doable with a bit of patience and double jointed elbows. - inner handles and door card off (watch for hidden screws at front and behind the speaker trim) - remove what's left of the waterproof membrane, if any - remove inner and outer door scrapers to remove glass for access if needed (can be propped up but is very heavy) - disconnect loom to regulator - drill 3-5 rivets holding regulator and motor in place - test new regulator on bench to be sure it works - replace, mounting with new rivets and rubber bushes (can also use bolt/nut combination for the rivet mounting which can make life easier in future) - replace the plastic window rollers with poly items while in there, clean and grease the rail It's not possible to replace the motor on it's own, it comes as a compete unit with the cables and guides attached. Sometimes they just stick, and a good working over with a mallet will sort them - also check your switch and control module is not faulty by running some current from a 12v leisure battery to the motor while in situ to check (reverse polarity to open and close). Hope that helps - been a while since I did it so sure to have missed something - there are some vids on YouTuve, but the best write up was on the Canadian Corrado web site.
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