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Yeah, the 288s should have a spring clip bonded onto the back of the inner pad that sits into the piston. Are those spacers on there? Just wondring if they coudl be causing an issue with clearance, but unlikely - assuming you are runing 16/17s

Check none of the pistons are seized - the front pads should also have a spring clip with 3 legs attached on the pad facing the piston that sit into the pistion seat itself. Also the calliper sliding pins should move freely, especially on the rears.

Is it just a block of foam shaped lie the first aid kit? Might be interested - thinking of mounting a CD changer in there, so this might be useful....

Ha ha - I have mine at least 8 years I think - got them from ARZ back in the day. My plan was to fit same as yours uing this template as a guide - top shows the US profile and bottom the standard one. Great tip on removing the wiper and using those wires to feed the brake light though. One day hopefully......

US tailgate or did you cut using the template that’s floating around the web? Tempted to start on mine straight away now!

High level light is very nice - I have the parts (light unit, loom and bracket) but haven't gotten around to fitting yet - did you mod the tailgate or by the US version?

I had a JBL GT507C set for a Golf that I used the door and rear speakers from, they came with crossovers and some small tweeters that look like they would fit, but the mounting would need some modding. To be honest, the sound platform there is so poor with the tweeters pointing at the windscreen that it's not really worth it - go for decent components, and put the tweeters in the pillar trim or door and you will find that gives good results.

They are just bog standard fuel pump relays - the VW part number might have changed at this stage, but they are used all over the place and any parts shop should have one. 167 or 67 should do the trick. You'll find the same relay in SEAT, Audi, VW and countless others.

That's a nasty price - but I suppose at least it's still available through official sources. Should also mean that VDO are making them again, and you should be able to get one for less using the VDO part number directly from a motor factors. When I bought mine for new they were less than half that price.

Mmm, juicy shoes - wow, nearly 4000DM, close to two grand's worth. Is that your car - they seem well proud of the wheel arches, are there spacers on?

Sorry, meant to say they are not actually stretched really, that was just me - they are PS3 Michelins, very good, but you do notice the 10mm per wheel believe it or not. I used to use Pirelli P6000/9000 before, but they no longer make them in the size - they were excellent in both the wet and dry.

I have 195s stretched on at the moment on original rims, but would prefer the 205 for that little bit of extra width - Uniroyal Rainsports were the last ones I saw. Michelin are now doing the PS series for classic cars, they don't have a 205 yet, but might add one soon.

Hopefully they are ok - the sender part# is definitely correct for the VDO pump as that is what I have on my car, Keyo as well as far as I know. Lets us know how you get on when they arrive. It's a real pain that the search for nearly every part for a Corrado has turned into a lengthy and often disapointing magical mystery tour and treasure hunt! There used to be a thread on here for listing OEM equivalent part numbers for commonly sought parts - might be worth resurecting

I would have thought the same thing, but funnily enough there is a thread on the vortex discussing them and the guys reckoned they were rebadged VDO and same quality. I haven’t tried one to find out though, but that’s why I mentioned it.

Did you try putting the part number and “VDO” into Google? Might get some hits to follow up on.

for sure - that's why I added it at the end - should have been at the beginning really lol: You definitely don't want to do the whole thing and then realise that your motor was actually working, or even worse, that the second hand replacement one isn't after rivetting it in!

Controls or the resistor on the fan blower motor? What are your symptoms? To remove the controls, gently lever off the trim cover surround, the dials stay in place and you will see four screws holding it in - the mounts for these often break though. The unit will then lift out, but only a bit if the control cables are still attached. The resistor fix for missing a single speed is easily doen and well documented on the web as other VWs had the same issue - if the controls are the rotary ones, it's more tricky - they are very fragile and the cog teeth tend to break if the knob is forced in any way. They operate using three bowden cables to the flaps on the heater matrix and often get stuck -the fix would be to replace the cables and sleeves, make sure all the control flaps move freely and then check the internals of the dial unit for damage and try to repair with epoxy. The units are LHD and RHD specific and almost impossible to get hold of new - and unfortunately specific to the later cars.

Not an easy one I'm afraid - but doable with a bit of patience and double jointed elbows. - inner handles and door card off (watch for hidden screws at front and behind the speaker trim) - remove what's left of the waterproof membrane, if any - remove inner and outer door scrapers to remove glass for access if needed (can be propped up but is very heavy) - disconnect loom to regulator - drill 3-5 rivets holding regulator and motor in place - test new regulator on bench to be sure it works - replace, mounting with new rivets and rubber bushes (can also use bolt/nut combination for the rivet mounting which can make life easier in future) - replace the plastic window rollers with poly items while in there, clean and grease the rail It's not possible to replace the motor on it's own, it comes as a compete unit with the cables and guides attached. Sometimes they just stick, and a good working over with a mallet will sort them - also check your switch and control module is not faulty by running some current from a 12v leisure battery to the motor while in situ to check (reverse polarity to open and close). Hope that helps - been a while since I did it so sure to have missed something - there are some vids on YouTuve, but the best write up was on the Canadian Corrado web site.

Haha - the horror! [emoji41][emoji28] next video “how to completely destroy a campaign with ordinary household tools and reassemble into a Ford Fiesta”

Well, a Corrado (or any car for that matter) doesn't need to be perfect or have a lot of money sunk into it to be enjoyed and put a smile on your face - one of my all time favourites was a 1987 Audi Coupe Quattro that could at best have been described as in middling condtion, but I loved it every time I drove it, even if it was missing half the dash and the door cards most of the time. My current VR6 has given over 10 years of great ownership, now needs some work and tidying up, but I always look forward to getting behind the wheel and it never dissapoints. I would say that in my opinion the Corrado is not a wise investment vehicle, rather a driver's car - that territory belongs to things like the classic air-cooked 911 and the like.

The one that went to Ireland disappeared into a black hole it seems - probably some private collection or something. I would know most of the cars over here, or at least have heard of them.

The Canadian forum was always excellent - a brilliant resource with plenty of DIYs and photos, and with probably a much smaller number of cars there.

Would be an outrage to have a Campaign leaving UK shores as they were a special edition for that market only! Really belongs in a museum or auto exhibition.

No worries - it’s always a pleasure to help solve something - I can’t take credit for it, just for knowing where it was and being able to point in the right direction! All that ECU info in the archives and plenty more besides was down to the legendary RW1, now sadly passed away - the details he knew or could dig up were unbelievable.

Was never really sure if the full reset ECU procedure was necessary - you can be sure most garages don't bother or don't even know about it - and the ECU will relearn the correct values over time anyway, but the procedure ensures you have the correct initial settings.