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Everything posted by fendervg

  1. Here's a few links to get you started: Sample wiring pins -various sizes Loom tape A terminal extractor tool - you can get them cheaper than this Wiring repair set Connector - this a lighting one - but all the standard ones are available, just check the part # on them. The VAG parts system has a whole set of pages on connectors, wiring and terminals in the Electrical section. Check this link out for some part numbers: http://www.quattroforum.com/forum/elect ... basic.html Hope this helps.
  2. These are all still available new from the stealers - they are standard connectors found on many VAGs of the era. Go in with the part or the part #. Not expensive. If they give you the runaround, just go to another dealer that is more helpful. To rewire you can order repair kits that are basically a 5 inch length of yellow wire (available in various gauges) with a pin crimped onto each end - cut them in half, insert into the connector and splice into the loom. It's also possible to order just the contact blade crimps themselves, but you will need a specialist crimp tool to form a good join. Use exterior fabric wire wrap or heatshring to seal the connection and you're done. The existing pins can be removed either with a specialist extractor tool, or a very small flat blade jeweller's screwdriver. Alternatively find a car in a scrappies or one that is being broken and take the bits you need off the loom - I'm sure there are plenty on here.
  3. If they are new OEM springs they will sit very high until it settles down - drive it for a while, put something in the boot and wait at least 500 miles before doing an alignment and tracking again if you've done the fronts as well.
  4. @mrbeige Sound - would you be able to add me to the list and send on payment details via pm please ? Thanks.
  5. Would be well interested in a set of these as well. Can you post to Dublin, Ireland ? And how much do you need, paypal etc. Cheers.
  6. Update: I got this installed the other day - rather than cutting the left and right signal wires, I used a posi-tap connector to link it up. Much nicer than a scotch-lock. They also have inline fuse holders of the same design that helped sort out a loose alarm power feed. The comfort blinkers work a treat ! Now for a lights on buzzer (planning on using the MkIII buzzer relay), headlight range adjustment and cruise control retrofit.
  7. I have a Meta car alarm that will close both windows and the sunroof when you hold the remote down for longer when locking. 93 car. It has a signal wire that connects to the CL for this and it was just a setting that had to be activated on the alarm.
  8. Stainless braided hoses with a clear plastic covering would sort this out. Bulging rubber flexi hoses are one of the moses common failure or advisory reasons here in Ireland.
  9. I had problems with a rattling cat heat shield recently and after lifting the car at a mechanics you could see that one of the mounting bolt/nut combination had corroded - just removed the whole shield and have had no problems and no more embarrassing noises when idling or pulling off. As it's just there to protect the ground underneath the car and not the underbody from excess heat, it should be fine. Just don't park in a puddle of petrol.....
  10. Are they left and right handed ? I seem to remember there being two different ones.
  11. What about the fact that the black paint on the plastic dashboard and electric window switches used to wear off after 1-2 years on the early Mk5's ? Made them look really tacky as they were white underneath - and IMO not acceptable when buying a 2 year old used car. I've even seen a VAG service bulletin about it.
  12. @Supercharged - thanks for the info - I was pretty sure that they were still available from dealers in the UK, that is I presume where the various other sellers on ebay and the web are sourcing theirs. Obviously once you have the right part number the easiest way to get them is to simply walk into your local stealership and buy them over the counter. The problem for me was trying to arrange shipping to Ireland. Very few Irish dealers are even willing to look into ordering this kind of stuff and I understand that the part number is UK only.
  13. The ebay seller ID is lesbray on ebay.co.uk - this is where I got mine - also known as veedubmachine There is also seller ID silverwagen, cheaper, but will only ship to the UK and not sure if th emats are the same. If you search for the part # in google it also turns up the following: http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/index.ph ... cts_id=376, same as first seller on ebay and http://www.shop4volkswagen.co.uk/produc ... 3VAG1418BJ, shows as in stock at £57.99 inc VAT, but only ship to UK as well. Hope this helps.
  14. Cheers - will try that - as in many things Corrado, especially trim related, force is not a good idea. Gently does it.....
  15. Hi all - FYI I just purchased some black mats, VAG OEM, made by Votex on ebay. They come with 2 screw in fasteners to hold the mats to the carpet, and have proper non slip backing, not the foam that falls off that I have on another set. Even better, the Corrado script is sewn in, and not stuck on. The only thing is it is just on the driver's side, but that's where it's needed most - you could always use a good passenger side mat from another set as they don't tend to have as much wear on them. The part number that I had originally for RHD mats in black was: 863VAG1418BJ - and this was correct. Other info from the sticker on the packaging is: PICK Location: N3836D02 Part number description: 863 VAG 141 8 J BLCK MAT SET CORRA Dealer Location: T142A Dealer Number: TP058 Dealer ORD Number: R100329 Hopefully this might help us on the forum to track down a source for more. No problems with ebay or the seller, who offers an excellent service, but I think they should be available cheaper than the £65 it cost me, plus shipping to Ireland. N.B the arz-tuning.de mats in grey are LHD only, can be made to fit, but are the other OEM type with stuck on script and foam backing - also quite expensive.
  16. Maybe someone can help - do the two plastic guides that hook the lid into the glovebox body on each side just pull out or is there another trick to it ? Trying to fit a brodit pro-clip phone holder and need to hook it under the side of the glovebox trim. Many thanks,
  17. Yep, fuel warning would be nice - it's not that any of this stuff is really essential, but just should have been standard on a high end car. I've looked into the Relay 36 buzzer thing myself - it's not straightforward, holder 9 is the right one, but you will need to run some wires to make it work. I've seen it donw on a few German forums for Corrados and Mk2 Golfs as well, and have a link to a write up - If I have time I'll dig it up and post it (maybe even translate). They recommend using a 2 pole door switch from a Passat - and this has the advantage of the buzzer not going off when the passenger door is open, or the courtesy light is on.
  18. Very handy on the oodles of roundabouts we have over here - for a motorway lane change I would use a full indicator anyway.
  19. I think that one is only for later cars - I'm thinking more of something along these lines: http://cgi.ebay.de/Komfortblinker-PlugP ... 439bd3b391 If you have a look at the picture, the two plug connectors at the top are what I'm looking for - it needs to be wired into the existing indicator wires, but I hate cutting into the original loom if I can avoid it, so if I can get hold of a female and male socket, it would just be plug and play - one male connector into block T on the central electrics, and the female to the original loom.
  20. Hi need a part number for an indicator relay upgrade for comfort blinkers - this is the loom connector that goes into socket T on the back of the central electrics panel: http://www.corradodriver.de/HTML/Schalt ... 0Corry.htm If anyone can get a part number off the plug part, that would be great.
  21. Well, here in Dublin, I've only ever met one other one on the road since I've got mine, and I drive it nearly daily. And I know from shows and forums that there are at least 30 around, with a few more up for sale on various sites. I think we are at the stage now that the majority of cars need serious work to keep them going for longer, and many are being left sitting or being broken for parts - just check out the amount of breaking/parts for sale threads.
  22. Has anyone had any experience with this particular cruise control kit? http://www.cum-cartec-shop.de/product_i ... ts_id=1517 It is a German site, but claims to be compatible with the C, and petrol engines that are not drive by wire. From what I can see, it consists of a control unit, stalk, brake pedal switch, vac motor and throttle cable linkage. It seems to take a signal from the GALA wire for speed, a switch on the brake pedal, and a vac feed from the brake servo to control the accelerator cable - seems to be a lot less involved thab fitting the whole OEM unit. The description also states that it is type and TUV approved. Would be an interesting upgrade and nice little feature to have.
  23. fendervg

    Wobbly seat

    There are two plastic seat rail guide pieces that are probably missing - replace them and it should sort it out.
  24. Not sure if there is a how to, but here is how I did it : You will need: An uprated loom - a main/dip one is fine, as the main lights are both fed from the main beam 2 4 pin headlight connector plugs - 357941165 Some loom repair wire - 000979227 - this comes with pins on the end that slide into the connector, they are double ended, so four will do. Bullet connectors and heat shrink, loom tape. Some spare wire ( about 2 metres) A multimeter Cable ties A ratchet crimper, wire cutter/stripper and a terminal extractor if you make a mistake The other end of the plug connection - this is not available seperately, as they are molded into the headlight plastic body. I cut one out of an old headlight unit - they are also found on similar age Passats. The wire colours are: Brown - earth Yellow - dip beam White - main beam Grey/black - sidelights Cut the H4 connectors off your new loom, and crimp on 3 repair wires for main, dip and earth. Use heat shrink and tape to make it neat and waterproof. Repeat for the other side. The new loom will have a yellow and white wire with spade connectors to switch the relay, the signal comes from the original connector. You can cut these off and connect it to the part of the plug from the headlight unit. There will also be a signal for the sidelights coming from the original connector - this does not need to be relayed, and you can take the signal from there and crimp on two new wires and run them inside the new loom, one to each headlight socket. Insert the pins into the sockets in the correct locations and test for continuity with a multimeter. If all is ok, connect the uprated loom to the battery, plug each new socket into the headlight body, and the now disconnected passenger side plug into the new connector on the loom. Also disconnect the dim dip resistor - this a yellow connector near the battery. The advantage here is that you can switch back to stock by just connecting the original plugs back, and the signal wire connection is good and water tight - normally you would just shove the spades into the old socket. I would not run uprated bulbs with this loom as it still uses the stock wiring inside the headlight, but you should see a huge improvement in any case with normal bulbs. Hope this helps.
  25. I've made one up that uses oem plugs on the uprated loom to connect to each headlight and then the female version cut out of an old headlight shell to connect the control wires to the original loom. It's completely reversible and involves no cutting.
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