fendervg

Check the plastic trim that covers the top of the pedals under the driver's parcel shelf - this is located with a plastic screw type thing right at the front of the footwell and if not seated properly will cause the pedal arm to rub when depressed/released, making a noise - cheap easy fix if it is this. Next check the clutch release bearing - the gearbox cover plate has to come off to check this.

Fitted the cruise control stalk this evening - looks nice but doesn't do anything yet. The ECU is next, along with the brake pedal switch and the loom connections. The hardest part of switching over the stalk is removing the lower steering wheel cowl without breaking it - if it's never been off before (unlikely at this stage in a C's life!) it will be secured by 2 screws in the long recesses either side, and possibly another self tapper in the middle section. These screws are a right pain to get back in, so don't be surprised if an alarm fitter just threw them away in exasperation. There are a number of locating tabs and lugs all around the edges and these need to be lined up very carefully - the brittle plastic will break very easily. The screws can still be got new from VW for pennies. Once in there, and with the wheel off (straighten the steering up and use some chalk to mark the alignment, use a 24mm socket and short extension on the securing nut, unclip the horn wire as well, the horn push cover just prises off), 3 long narrow screws hold the stalks on - a narrow blade flat screwdriver is your friend here, 2 screws at the top, left and right, and one on the bottom left. After that both the wiper and indicator assemblies will be loose, these are a unit that just clips together, some gentle persuasion at the contacts will separate them. Give everything a good clean, expecially the contacts, and some grease on rotating surfaces. The cc stalk just slips on as a straight swap and the 4 pin connector to the loom tucks away into the lower dash on the left. Test everything with the ignition on before putting the wheel back - lights, indicators, hazards, wipers, dip etc. and be carefully that the indicator is in the off position when refitting the wheel so that the self cancelling mech lines up properly. I've done this on a Golf 2 as well, and it's much the same, so the procedure will be valid for both pre and post facelift cars.

Just to update this thread - the relays did not make a difference, but probably no harm to replace them on a 15+ year old car anyway. What fixed my starting issue was to replace the fuel pressure regulator on the right hand side of the injection rail with a new one - the car starts on the button every time now - I imagine what was happening was that the fuel pressure was dropping over time when the car was sitting, which would take it longer to start. About €75 euro new.

I'm thinking of using a small syringe to apply it without making too much of a mess.

I've just asked my mechanic here in Ireland to check prices and availability for the following from VAG - at present dealers here are doing a 25% discount over normal trade prices on brake service parts, so it will be interesting to see if this applies to older cars as well: Front: 1 x 3A0615123 calliper with 54mm pistons lh 1 x 3A0615124 calliper with 54mm pistons rh 2 x 4A0615125A calliper carriers, 288 mmm 4 x 4D0698647 Calliper guide bushes 4 x N90708502 calliper carrier mounting bolt 2 x 3A0615301A Front brake discs, 288 mmm 1 x 8N0698151 Front brake pads, set Rear: 1 x 1J0615423 rear calliper, lh 1 x 1J0615424 rear calliper, rh 1 x 1H0615425 calliper carrier, lh 1 x 1H0615426 calliper carrier, rh 1 x Goodridge kit part number- SVW0506-2P 2 x 191598625 rear wheel bearings 2 x Rear discs (standard corrado rear) 1 x rear pads (standard VR6)

Another update - managed to take some snaps of the cruise control kit: IMG_0146.jpg[/attachment:29bgm639] You can see the vac actuator on the left, stalk with loom connectors, the ecu, control loom, throttle cable, brake position switch and mounting parts, including fittings to take a tap from the vaccum lines in the bay. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfvr6-cruise2.jpg[/attachment:29bgm639]

No more info ? Come on lads, get out your receipts and start posting ! Surely we have some more info out there. Just want to make the conversion easier off the shelf for myself and others.

Got the stalk today - €91.00 from VAG in Ireland, arrived in 4 days from Germany.2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcruise-control 001.jpg[/attachment:25irh123]cruise-control 002.jpg[/attachment:25irh123]

Cheers for the info, lads. I have updated the original post with part numbers. We still need some more for: ABS rotors Rear Pads Rear discs Rear bearings

Cheers - I just want to get all the part numbers in one place.

Hi all, looking to start a definitve thread on this and if the information is good enough we should make it sticky. A common mod is to fit MkIV Golf rear brake callipers to stop seizing and make them more reliable. The old MkII rears that were fitted to nearly all VAGs of a certain vintage are notorious for the handbrake cable mechanism freezing up, leading to pad squeal, seized callipers, or even worse, smoke. 288 mm front callipers are also a worthy upgrade as they increase pad contact area by a third, even for the relatively tiny disc diameter increase, and as far as my research goes, they will fit under 15" standard wheels, e.g. VR6 Speedlines. Both mods are 5 stud for VR6 in my case, although the rears can also be used on 8v/16v and G60 cars. We should put together a definitive list of the OEM part numbers for the components required for the conversion to act as point of reference for anyone wanting to do this - some will want to source parts secondhand and refurb, others will go for new. as the parts are all still available from the dealers. Nearly all VAG brake system parts are ATE or Girling. So basically we need: FRONT 1) 288mm callipers - ATE only, from late VR MkIII Golf, some Passats and possibly others. There are two types, banjo pipe and screw thread x2 From VR6 Golf3, banjo fitting 3A0615123 calliper with 54mm pistons lh 3A0615124 calliper with 54mm pistons rh From Passat,screw thread 4A0615123A calliper with 57mm pistons lh 4A0615124A calliper with 57mm pistons rh 2) 288mm front calliper carriers x2 4A0615125A calliper carriers 3) Calliper slider bolts and sleeves x 4 Guide bushes (For Golf VR6 1997/98) -VW Part no: 4D0 698 647 - you need 2 for each side 4) Carrier mounting bolts x 4 N90708502 Mounting bolt 5) 2 x front ABS rotors (where fitted) 6) Front flexi brake hoses - either Goodridge, VAG or DG Autotech x 2 VAG OEM 1H0611701B Brake hose front Goodridge full set braided SVW0604-6P and they are for a golf VR6 95on DG Autotech front hoses only: http://www.dgautotech.com/dgauto/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=53&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=96 7) Front 288mm discs x 2 3A0615301A Brake discs 8) Calliper rebuild kit - if buying used brakes Caliper Rebuild Kit (For Golf VR6 1997/98) -VW Part no: 3A0698471 - Set of seals = £12.51 inc vat, per side. This includes the Piston Seals & Piston Dust Covers 9) Front 288mm Brake pads 8N0698151 Front brake pads REAR 1) MkIV rear callipers x 2 Mk4 Golf Calipers = VW Part numbers: 1J0 615 423 & 1J0 615 424 = £76.50 + vat each 2) Rear calliper carriers x 2 (not neccesarily needed, as they should go straight on) 1H0615425 / 1H0615426 3) Rear Calliper carrier bolts x 4 ATE 4.0101-3601.2 or VAG N0139123 4) Rear Calliper slider bolts and sleeves x 4 8E0 698 470 B 5) Rear ABS rotors x 2 1H0501639 6) Goodridge Mk2=>MkIV Brake hose conversion kit (banjo fitting) x 1 Goodridge kit part number- SVW0506-2P ? 7) Handbrake cables and fittings VW part number: 1H0 609 712E = £11.32 + vat each x 2 8) Rear discs x 2 357615601B 9) Rear pads 1H069845G 10) Rear wheel bearings x 2 VW Part number: 191 598 625 You could also add brake fluid, splash shields, bleed nipples etc. but I think there is enought there to be going on with. I will do some research and update the thread as appropriate, and any help with part numbers will be much appreciated. I will add them in once they are confirmed as correct. Any corrections to the above or additional info/ideas is welcome. Cheers,

No bother - would anyone else like to venture an opinion /

As I thought - not as easy as it looks - ah well. I think I know what this part is now, having seen it before on the head cover seals for the MkII 1.8 engine - it's attached to one side of the head cover seal. Time to get ordering and get my hands dirty again. :D

Hi all, Was doing some work on the C yesterday (93 VR) and noticed some very slight oil weepage on the driver's side of the block, just eblow where the side of the air filter box is. Looking carefully, there is a half moon shaped rubber seal in the side of the block just below the where the head sits, and this is leaking slightly. Is this a cam shaft seal ? Is it easy to replace - at first sight you could just use a reverse thread to pull it and then ease a new one in, but harsh experience has taught me that these jobs are never as easy as they first appear - in Haynes language, " always bring more spanners with you than is in the book for the job". Anyone got any ideas ? Cheers.

Got a tube of this from the stealers last week - circa €23 - see below. I've done the front guide rails and the wind barier pivots, but it is pretty tricky to get at the mech that's used for the tilt position - anyone any ideas ? Does the roof have to come out for greasing up - I'm thinking of using a small conical tip that's quite long, with the end cut off.

Finally finished my uprated wiring loom and will fit today - I bought a loom from ebay and then modified it by putting the realays in a waterproof container, added plug and play by using OEM connectors for each lamp and for the original headlight feed and sealed it with tape as well as I could:

Will do - I'm waiting for the stalk to come in, and will take some pictures of the kit contents and various components over the weekend. If you keep an eye on this thread, there will be updates as I go along.

Many thanks - mine arrived yesterday. A great find and it may help to cure my ABS light issues. Does anyone have a how-to on replacing these ?

Some more info: Part# for cruise control stalk is 1H0953513D €91.00 + VAT from stealers, currently on back order from Germany. If anyone is looking for a pre-facelift version of this stalk I have one purchased by accident. http://www.urotuning.com/shop/turn-sign ... -1812.html

I'll second Jon_vr6 on that - many thanks for all your effort in organising this.

That sounds about right for the dealer prices - they're in euros over here. You might pick them up cheaper in GSF or the like, or even better a Bosch distributor - they are standard relays and can be cross-referenced with the correct part number. The 167 fuel one is in a lot of VAG cars - if you do get one from a scrappy's, go for a relatively young car, as relays can and do go wrong over time - otherwise we wouldn't even have such a thread.

Here are the part numbers for the two relays - these were got from VAG on 10/5/2010, so should be the most recent. ECU Relay - (109) - 1J0 906 381 A Fuel Pump Relay - ( 167) - 191 906 383 C Hope this helps someonw when ordering.

Just hwat I was looking for - should have used the search. Mea culpa.

Hi. What's the recommended way of keeping the sunroof mech running smoothly ? What kind of grease/lubricant do you use ? Noticed that it's a bit slower to close recently, and remembered reading that it's a service check. Bearing grease Lithium grease Wd40 Multip purpose oil etc. and for all the wags, I've already thought of most of the funny (or not so ) answers...e.g. KY, butter, vaseline etc. so no need unlees it's really original. Cheers.

I'll have volksworld's sensor please if it's still available - let me know the payment details and I will sort paypal swiftly. Cheers.