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That did not come from Kurzy. It's got spade connectors, so won't connect directly onto the lamp housing socket, the spade connectors will go on to the terminals in the socket instead.So, the two ring terminals will be + and - on the battery, end of loom to the spades on your headlights, and then you take one of your existing plugs from the OEM loom and hook the new loom on there, this is what signals the relay to trip. That looks like a two relay one, so you probably have one for each side. To be honest it doesn't look great quality in the pictures, so if I were you I'd just arrange to buy a new one. Kurzy on here did a group buy deal not long ago, or another member on here might have a decent one for sale. I'll take a look and see what I have and get some photos up for comparison. The OEM plug sockets are really a must, and very easy to buy both the male and the female ones now.

That's pretty cool - welcome aboard!

Just to update this - in the end I went for an Optimate 3 unit with the fly-lead connector with ring terminals directly attached to the battery (about 50cm long) and an extension lead to pass it out the front window of my house - works a treat, and does a gentle charge-up and maintenance cycle after that. I have much more powerful chargers for when a battery is out of the car that I can use indoors, but this is just to make sure it doesn't go flat over the course of several weeks (I know of course that it's a heinous crime not to sue your Corrado at least once a week! I believe the warrant is in the post.) They also do more powerful units, but this one suited me as I don't need dual setting CAN bus stuff etc. I've ordered a longer fly-lead (100cm) and the plan is to route that from the battery to the tow-eye cover on the passenger side. In the end, after lots of looking on-line and dealing with orders returned by customs, I found them at a motor bike shop around the corner from where one of my kids does gymnastics - most other places were out of stock. A great stroke of luck, and maybe worth remembering as these things were originally designed for bikes, so hence a bike shop being a good place to find them. I wasn't impressed with anything I saw in Halfrauds, and the bonus was that the above setup was much cheaper than on-line, even without the postage.

Yeah, those trays are rarely ever seen on a car any more as they will all have fallen victim to kerbs and speed ramps and multi storeys. I have a set for the VR I bought a few years back but haven't got around to fitting them yet - would make absolutely no sense with a 90mm splitter, maybe with a 70 or 50mm, as the front lip of the tray/air guide sits at the same height as the edge of the splitter.

Tidied that up.

Get OEM if you can - Meyle, SKF, Lemforder, ATE are all good alternatives. One option would be to get hub carriers second hand, refurbish and powder coat and then fit all new bearing races and bearings and ABS ring etc, ready to fit straight on.

Bosch or VDO/Siemens would be the ones I'd be looking for. You can actually pulse and exercise the ISV using the VCDS diagnostics software while it's still on the car.

I've had a couple of those cup holders over the years - they are great.They shouldn't cost you too much as they were originally made for Passat/T4 van and easily available if you know where to look. There is also a mounting plate the same size as the back of the cup holder that makes it sit about an inch further out and fixes it more securely, with a little dimple for your finger to go in as you flick it open. The grey versions are really rare, but sadly not an exact match for the Corrado platinum interior.

You can buy things called tent stake rubber bungees - essentially a very large hair band - from camping suppliers, should do the job https://www.millets.co.uk/15893172/vango-tent-peg-elastic-15cm-x-5mm-15893172 Having said that, the OEM ones are just large rubber rings - and they were used on lots of different cars so should still be available. The reason they are used is to allow for engine movement when running so as not to stress the solid plastic parts.

You must have an OBD1 2.8 AAA engine? Because all the later 2.8 VR6s I've seen are all OBD2 and don't have an ISV. I think once all the fittings for the vacuum pipes match up, a 2.9 ABV ISV should work fine.

Don't necessarily trust the drawing - the rubber mount (2A in the drawing I think) might be available separately if it is listed with it's own part#. I wasn't aware that RHD window mechs were available again, last I heard they were long NLA, and only the passenger side was available at around €200.

Yeah, checked Aldi web site, but nothing at the moment. I'll pick one up as a spare the next time it comes around based on the goof feedback.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I checked out the CTEK, but they were hard to get locally at a decent price, but look good - in the end I ordered an Optimate 5 (4 amp charging and conditioning/maintenance) with the battery terminal fly leads and extension, so I will let you know how I get on with that. - hopefully I might be able to run the charging socket from the battery down to the passenger tow eye cover...

With the car being used less frequently over lock down and working from home, I'm getting tired of pulling a flat battery every six weeks or so and having to charge it in the house and then put it back in - so I'm looking for something that will let me attach two ring terminals and a socket lead to the battery in the car and then be able to run a lead through the window out to the car where I can hook it up to maintain and charge the battery? I already have a small charger I use indoors, and a larger unit that can be used to jump start the car from the mains. After some quick research, I'm leaning towards one of the Optimate 2/3/4 units, as they seem to come with these kind of leads and have good reviews, but would welcome anyone sharing their experiences and suggestions. Solar is not a runner, but tempting. Many thanks.

Same here - is not possible to get the non-isofix seats any more? We've usually had the isofix in our other "family" car, and normal ones secured by seatbelts in the Corrado - I used to pus a blanket underneath the seat to protect the leather...

I've always managed to get a small bay seat and the next size up in the back no problem when we had two small ones - once you secure with the seatbelt properly, they are as good as isofix, just more of a pain to move them from car to car - Maxi Cosi was the brand, and the baby seat sat perfectly in the bucket seat in the back.

There you go - Corrado maintenance requires patience (and a deep pocket) and all is well in the end - you need to have it as you wait for parts anyway........

I've been there many a time with the VR and other cars - things always work out the next day or so, or at least you can try and figure them out having had some wine, rest and a fresh perspective!

Welcome to the forum - you're in the right place for answers to Corrado queries and there's a wealth of knowledge on here. It's worth checking out the search feature thoroughly, as a lot of stuff has been exhaustively covered already.

You might have an issue because k-jetronic operates at a higher pressure than electronic fuel injeciton systems, generally around 5.5-6 bar (designed for Messerschmidt engines!) as opposed to 2.5-4.5, so you need to make sure that you source the right kind of fuel hose - that's why all the fuel distributor lines are braided.

That's pretty cool in fairness - looks like cat litter they're using. Haha - one hour later, shiny shiny, two hours later - only half a wheel left etc.

Look nicely made - I wonder if they still have the Corrado molds and drawings?

Adjustment is the same process on both - there is actually a VAG tool for holding the shifter end in place during adjustment, but it's not really necessary - the Bentley explains the full setup using the tool, but Kev's method works just as well. with a little bit more trial and error.

That is just the cap for the wiper arm, the nozzle is fixed into the wiper motor spindle and you can adjust the direction of the jet with a small pin. Looks to be a pretty standard part, also used on the T4 van: https://www.justkampers.com/us/3a0955435-rear-wiper-arm-cap-vw-t4-1991-2003.html I'd say try the VAG dealer first as it might still be available, or fleabay.

As above, they are just standard 2-plug ISO connectors - you can pick these up loose wiring tails easily at any motor factors, electronics place or dare I say Halfrauds - you won''t be using all the pins on the red one, but the other one will have 8 pins for your speakers.