fendervg

This should have all the info. It was the same for Mk2 Golfs and cars of the era that had the same matrix type fitted. This doc has all the instructions and part numbers. I don' t think there should be any gurgling without the valve fitted - that was how the cars would have left the factory anyway - I'd say there might still be some air in the system somewhere, or also it could be the auxiliary electric water pump. recall-matrix.pdf

Is that where the washer jet used to be? Looks like it might have been leaking.........I can't actually remember what was there on my Mk2

Love the early steering wheel!

AFAIK the valve is there to to stop the heater matrix rupturing if there is a cooling issue or overheating, a safety/CYA thing as front passengers would get scalded. If the cooling system is up to scratch and maintaining temperatures within tolerances it won't be strictly necessary. The gurgling sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, so the best way is to make sure that it is bled out when refilling - I tend to refill first, leave the reservoir cap off and start the engine and let it warm up, squeezing the top and bottom rad hoses every once in a while - when the stat opens it will take a big gulp, so you'll need to top up quickly, check the hoses again, then put the cap on, go for a drive, let it settle and top up as needed to get the correct level. The coolant is pressurised when hot, so be very careful when opening the cap - let it sit for a while.

New valve caps?

Lots of pics here if you scroll down a bit: https://www.google.com/search?q=schrick+vgi+corrado&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjGgtG7iODxAhXWSEEAHRfxDOQQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=schrick+vgi+corrado&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzoECAAQHlDhMliaTGDQTWgAcAB4AIABYYgBzgiSAQIxNZgBAKABAaoBC2d3cy13aXotaW1nwAEB&sclient=img&ei=gontYMa5AdaRhbIPl-KzoA4&bih=581&biw=1356&client=firefox-b-d Looks like most seem to run them underneath, front and back rows, and then out to the side. Not sure if you would need slightly shorter than standard to keep it all neat? This is why I'd prefer a VSR over a Shrick if my dreams ever came true - kind of a style over substance thing, as I do know the Shrick delivers a more bang for your buck 😉

In this context, “Please do not caress” is probably a better translation!

From vague memory it would have been a white LED, 2.1V and a 500 ohm resistor. I remember I measured the current etc. at the time with a friend who had LEDs and resistors handy. You could always measure the signal coming in, but I'm pretty sure it was 12V and there are lots of sites that let you work out what kind of inline resistor you would need , such as https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/led-resistor-calculator/ I think you can also now get ready to solder LEDs that have a resistor built in. If you don't want to go down the LED route, any electronics shop should have 12v filament bulb, something like this should work: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/incandescent-light-bulbs/0105231/ Maybe an LED is better as it won't blow and runs cooler, but I guess the idea with the warning light is that it's only supposed to come on for a couple of seconds and then stay out, although that's almost never the case in a Corrado in my experience!

How did you test the pumps? I usually just hook up a leisure battery direct to the terminals at the pump, with a toggle switch on the positive wire. Did you inject power directly at the relay block?

All we've got in Ireland for years is bog standard 95 octane - never had any issues with it in over 10 years and no damage to the fuel pump mounts (that might have been the result of some additive or cleaner - maybe some one put some JET-1 in there?). All VW engines from the Mk2 Digifant onwards will seem to run fine on 95 or 98 and the ECU will adjust to suit it as long as the knock sensors are working - you just might not get as much power, and there's no denying that these engines prefer to drink high octane.

You can lift and press the inner trim panel with the sunroof closed, and then rotate it 90 degrees to slide out towards the front and remove. He was just showing off with the tool - it makes it definitely easier, but is not strictly necessary. A good carpenter could probably make one very handily, but it will be one of those special tools that will only ever be used once or twice - I guess maybe more considering how often the sunroofs break lol:

A,B,C etc. work backwards alphabetically from the windscreen - so A is where the front of the door meets the side of the windscreen, and C is the one that annoys you when you are trying to reverse.... I guess a van or bus could have D and E pillars?

For the FPR, once it's rated to the correct 4 bar, it should be fine - the outlet diameter shouldn't make a difference as I think that's the return to the tank and the FPR's job is to maintain constant pressure in the fuel rail feeding the injectors and then dump excess fuel into the return, so the vacuum hose to the side is essential. It's easy to test pressure using the small test nipple on the front left of the rail - as simple pressure gauge is can be sourced pretty easily to attach to it, with a drain tap to release the pressure. Are there any other symptoms apart from the 00561 (Mixture Adaptation: Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded) error? Engine fuelling seems to depend on a lot of sensors working together, such as the TPS, crank sensor, MAF and O2 and the blue temp sender in the thermostat housing.

Well, washing with warm water is always better than cold lol I’m sure the elements have to burn out after a couple of years though - have never tested mine. Screenwash does have a lower freezing point, so assume this is just to help clear the nozzles?

For sure - you tend to forget after a while. I’ve been stuck in a 2011 Verso d4d with a dying turbo for my sins! The horror.

Started the VR6 today for the first time in over a year of lockdown! Had turned the engine over plugs out on the crankshaft last week, and today put the battery back in and it fired straight back into life after just three turns of the engine, settling down to a nice steady idle. Quick turn round our cul de sac and some better parking (to make room for a skip lorry) and that was it. Alarm, radio, sunroof and both windows and central locking still working too. Will go for a longer spin later on in the week, but that has cheered me up no end and will hopefully be some motivation towards getting back to working on and using. The car It was nice to sit behind the wheel of a real car again!

UK 2.0 16V was a 9A engine code

Fair enough - yes, it can be very hard to source parts, especially if not available locally. At least in the UK all late post facelift 16V engines were the 2.0 version, the early ones were 1.8 - there were also a couple of specially built 16V G60 supercharged ones. The car looks great in red with the Sebring wheels.

Welcome to the forum - what a great piece of history - are you tempted to put a G60 engine back in for originality?

Ooh - could work well and looks nice and OEM - but what about the weight of the drink in it though? That vent is only held in by two screws - one at the top and the other at the instrument cluster surround, which is the one I'd be concerned about.

This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.

It's worth doing a search for those rings - they are out there, I got some new 2 years ago when replacing my radiator - I'll see if I can dig out the receipt and part# - as far as I remember they are not a Corrado specific part either, and used on other models. One problem is that if the metal shroud is rusting, the holes that the rings clip into could be corroded and might not fit securely.

Relatively easy to test the motor by unplugging the loom and hooking up a small leisure battery to drive it - just reverse +/- to go in the other direction. Once the door card is off it will be easy to see what's what. The switch is also often the culprit, and there are some relays behind the RHS rear seat trim, but more often than not the motors just give up and start seizing - some have had some success by giving the motor housing a few sharp taps to free it up, and I've seen some DIYs on opening up and refurbishing the motors, but that may be overkill. Second hand motors will also be tired. If your window guide rails and the channels that the rollers sit in at the bottom are dirty or damaged, this can cause the motor to cut out before it pulls too much current.

No issue with the OE hoses, but they tend to bulge a bit under pressure and most prefer to upgrade to braided hoses, which give a more consistent pedal feel and (maybe, but how do you measure it?) improved braking performance. Be aware that the braided hoses still use a rubber core, which can perish and split and is much harder to check than the OE ones.

I think they don't have the anti rattle plate because the pad on the piston side clips into the piston with three spring plates that are attached to the back of the pad.