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Anyone know what that weird switch/light thing is between the electric window switches, in the panel below the diff lock control? Frost/temperature warning? I've never seen one before and there wasn't one on my 87 CQ, although everything else looks familiar and original.

Mmm - cracking car, and only 38k miles on it - looks like it came out of a museum! I think those wheels are rare 15" Ronal 4 studs, as the originals were smaller at 14" and didn't fill the arches as well.

"As far as we can tell, there are just 16 VR6 Storms left in the UK and 10 of those are SORN’d. Of the remaining 6 still pootling about on British tarmac, this is the third to pass through our portal" - is this true? I'd be pretty sure that there are more registered than that. Looks like an after-market cruise control unit on the left of the steering wheel cowling as well?This car is absolutely pristine, but a real shame to see it handed on from Billy to Jack purely to make a few hundred extra quid rather than in the hands of a true enthusiast, as Chris G. really was.

^ this be true - no matter how often you bleed and what you replace, this era of cars will still fell a bit softer to brake, with some travel, compared to newer models. It will kick in nicely once you put the foot down. This is partly the age of the technology, and also design - there is a limitation on how leverage is exerted at the pedal/mc/servo, and this is a physical fact that can't be changed - you'll find most newer cars have much more mechanical advantage here. A few people have tried with the Mk3 system, which is a little better, or even using a Mk4 pedal box and servo, but this is a lot of work. People get disappointed after spending lots of money on new master cylinders, callipers, pads and discs and a full bleed because it doesn't break like Mk5 Golf, but it never will, and you tend to get used to it. For what it's worth, two things that are often overlooked are weeping seals on the master, and an ageing servo and piping that don't maintain proper vacuum.

I just stick a Sealey vacuum pressure bleeder on and bleed the lot - never had any issues, and makes it a one person job. They are not that expensive. You can gravity bleed the clutch master as it sits lower than the reservoir.

This looks interesting though - check out part #7: I can't find any evidence of different door cards for electric vs manual either, at least not listed. Maybe they were the same and they punched out holes and fitted blanks where required?

This is off the Vortex, so not 100% sure if it would be factory - I'd say all leather interiors were electric, so the door cards would be cloth. The handles apparently are from a Passat.

I think the Corrado had different door cards for manual or electric - never seen a blanking plate on any. The Mk2 Golf used the same cards, and there used to be black plastic covers like a grommet for the window winders and the mirror adjusting cables. I could be wrong though - like many times before! 😉

Ha ha agreed.

It's a tick box in your notification settings.

Just checked - the one I fitted and the spare I have are exactly the ATE one you reference above - 24.2523-0908.3 - can't check the internal diameter without taking it apart, but looks about right at 23mm.

That looks like the one I used a few years back - ATE. I might have another one stashed away to check the part number on, but the ATE one listed for the Corrado fits perfectly without a problem - it's a fairly common part, used on loads of older Audis etc, so I can't really see where they can go wrong - it's not Corrado specific.

Yeah, that would be my take on it now - it's just that little bit too tight with the dash in, and it's not an awful lot of extra effort to remove it.

So I guess whatever is on the far right of the line with the paint code on the sticker is the “interior code”. Would be interesting to compare with a few others on here to confirm the variations.....

And the certs - so interior is listed as "PLATIN" and the code for that appears to be "TR" - although the trim part numbers have a different suffix to indicate the colour.

Options sticker from my car, which is pearl grey metallic (LA7U) with grey heated leather and grey interior.

I think "platinum" was just one of the fancy names they gave the grey plastic trim - it was never an official equipment level, or anything like that.

Do you have the service book? There should be an options sticker there as well, and maybe inside the door pillar as well. If there isn't one in the boot, chances are it has been resprayed or repaired at some point. VW can verify with a factory "birth certificate" what options came originally, but it is not cheap, I think about 100 euro or so. If you have a friendly dealer they may be able to help. If the car has grey leather, the surround part of the dashboard and the centre console and pillar trims should also be grey - but many of these cars have had leather seats swapped in from a different one.

Would have to be an ur Quattro for me, preferably a late RR engined one in zermatt silver or metallic blue. Quite like a Bell Jetranger as well, but that’s a different matter!

Did you try putting the part # into a search engine? There seems to be a quite a few different options. The early ones are much more expensive though than the later ones, and differ in the number of connector pins. The Bosch one was available new from a Bosch dealer for around €200 as late as early last year. If you get a second hand one, you have no idea of knowing if it works or not as these are notoriously difficult to test and diagnose on or off the car, and a replacement is often the best option - how did you discover it was faulty, did you scan with VCDS and get an error? Reason I'm asking is that symptoms such as stalling at junctions and bad idle that might appear to be MAF related are often caused by something else.

Good stuff - been there done that twice, one of longest and most annoying jobs. Mine lasted nearly as long and the matrix only failed because the engine blew a top coolant hose. Did you go for dash out or in? I did it dash in, but in hindsight for the small amount of extra work it's much easier out because there is much more access and room to work in.

It looks like one of the loom connectors for either the left or right stalk - unless you have a bad earth though, a loose connection here should not really affect engine running. I'd suggest removing the wheel, after which it's easy enough to remove the cover and the control stalks and inspect all the connections - if it's a case that a wire is loose, it might be possible to re-crimp and solder the terminal.

Haha - showing my age! In fairness it's been a long time since I've seen a 6-pot Galaxy on the roads.

Might be worth trying a Ford dealer, as also found on the VR6 Galaxy.

Might be worth trying a Ford dealer, as also found on the VR6 Galaxy.