fendervg

Nice usernames - musk and aereloa! Two likely lads. Banned now.

If it's not completely damaged or sheared off, you should be ok getting it out. This happens all the time on rear callipers, so a mechanic should have plenty of experience. A blast with some compressed air will clear it out, and a bleed will take other residue out. Only thing is, if the nipples are seized in, it's possible the calliper could do with a rebuild or replacement as well - a good time to upgrade to Mk4 rears maybe?

Did you check out the Corrado FB pages - I think there is already an effort under way there to reproduce both left and right hand side cable guide brackets? It might save some duplication of effort.

Clutch master for RHD might be a bit scarce to get hold of.

If you have a small butane torch, a bit of heat can loosen these nicely because the calliper body is alloy. I make a point of never going near these without a proper five or six sided brake spanner or a hollow ratchet socket (Halfords used to do a nice set). Can you hammer a torx/spline bit or driver in enough to allow you to apply enough twisting force to shift it?

Should be fine - I've changed it before on a 02* boxes and usually filled to just above the level of the lip on the fill hole - this usually meant 80-90% of the 2 litres.

Maybe some old oil in there. The gear box also has to be in use a little bit to spread the oil. I'm not sure where you are seeing the oil come out - do you mean somewhere near the shift tower at the front?

Always great to see something like this - easypops has helped me out a few times over the years as well, and always a pleasure to deal with!

Crazy stuff.

Well, mine was just an opinion - not speaking from mechanics experience obviously, just my own car. There was an undertray fitted to the Golf 2 TD/GTD - maybe this could be modified to fit? Or it would be relatively easy to injection mould or press such an item. Personally while I see the attractions of a cleaner engine bay, I'd still like as much cold air getting in there as possible.

I have an old one here, but it's in Ireland, so unfortunately postage and possible customs charges would apply - if you don't get sorted in the UK, but I'm sure you will.

I think you'll find the VR6 suffers from overheating under the best of conditions and the engine bay temps get very high - an under tray would probably restrict the airflow and hence the cooling. Also, the older engines of this era tend to leak a bit of oil, so that would collect there. There were usually two plastic flat air guide pieces fitted on each corner of the front splitter - these usually go missing after the bumper has been off a couple of times.

Here's one - first thing that came up in a search: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-VW-04-06-TT-QUATTRO-OEM-Suction-Pipe-Line-Tube-021115251A-SHIPS-TODAY-/200880979889 But I don't think you really need to replace it if it is in good condition.

Febi should be fine - their parts are usually good quality and they were an OE supplier. No harm changing the pump if you are going to replace the sump. it's handy enough to do. Watch out that you get the correct sump gasket and fixings. You will always end up finding a few small metal shavings in the sump, or on the plug if it is magnetic - bigger bits could be part of the old chain guides.

It’s always mad to see the German mentality for over engineering in cases like this - and then they miss the fact that the engine bay is a huge heat sink and a bugger to work on!

I think the black plastic cover piece in the middle - is it there to protect the wiring from any leaking brake fluid?

Good stuff - I think you should congratulate yourself for having only one mystery bolt left over after a major job like that - I usually end up with a pile of them, and have no end of random ones sitting in multiple Tupperware containers round the house!

If you try the Ford dealer you might get lucky - usually cheaper than VAG as well. Merc used the 2.3 VR6 on some old E series and on vans too, but not sure of the exact models. Bosch, Beru, Valeo and ATE are all good brands if you can find one from them.

Great news that it’s solved! Top(quality-not)ran strikes again. Made by lovingly beaten children somewhere east of the Urals I’m always amazed that Heritage still sell that stuff, but sometimes there is t any other choice.

Ah, you are only teasing people now! But yes - the spares are the best - I managed to get hold of a complete set including cables and got my roof repaired - then the motor went and had to be replaced.

In my experience, having seen both Corrado and Mk3/Passat mechs apart, they will all eventually break in the same way - usually snapping of the left cable guide. Next most likely thing to go is the motor - you can check if the mech operates smoothly using an allen key and the small drive wheel in the motor underside. Most of this is down to lack of maintenance and lubrication - I read somewhere that the lube spec changed at one point and the service interval increased. As said above - most second hand Corrado ones will be nearly dead already, this is why people go for the replacement upgrades or try to make up a working unit. The Passat one is the best fit to the curvature of the roof. There is a project ongoing currently on the Corrado FB group to reproduce the left and right cable guides, and I believe they are nearly at prototype stage.

Interesting - was looking at these a few years back. Some of them seem to have a nearly 90 degree bend on the solid pipe section, others not as much - I wonder if this makes any difference when fitting?

Ha ha - rear emblem for a monster truck Corrado? Or some garage mood lighting?

Sebrings are where it's at - pity a 5 stud version would look all weird around the centre cap - but definitely one of the best on a G60/16v.

Good to see you back. Yeah, it’s not too busy around here unfortunately - seems like most seem to prefer free of charge misinformation to actual Corrado knowledge. This reminds me I should be updating my own car thread - I always forget! It will be coming out of lockdown soon, not started in at least six months so I’m afraid there will probably be plenty wrong. I’ve already noticed some nasty little rust bubbles.