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fendervg

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Posts posted by fendervg

  5. Posted

    Do you have the service book? There should be an options sticker there as well, and maybe inside the door pillar as well. If there isn't one in the boot, chances are it has been resprayed or repaired at some point. VW can verify with a factory "birth certificate" what options came originally, but it is not cheap, I think about 100 euro or so. If you have a friendly dealer they may be able to help.

    If the car has grey leather, the surround part of the dashboard and the centre console and pillar trims should also be grey - but many of these cars have had leather seats swapped in from a different one.

  7. Posted

    Did you try putting the part # into a search engine? There seems to be a quite a few different options. The early ones are much more expensive though than the later ones, and differ in the number of connector pins. The Bosch one was available new from a Bosch dealer for around €200 as late as early last year.

    If you get a second hand one, you have no idea of knowing if it works or not as these are notoriously difficult to test and diagnose on or off the car, and a replacement is often the best option - how did you discover it was faulty, did you scan with VCDS and get an error? Reason I'm asking is that symptoms such as stalling at junctions and bad idle that might appear to be MAF related are often caused by something else.

  8. Posted

      On 4/8/2021 at 10:24 AM, buttles said:

    Finished replacing the Rad and heater matrix which both went after replacing a low opening thermostat. Got away with it for 27 years so can't complain!!

    Good stuff - been there done that twice, one of longest and most annoying jobs.  Mine lasted nearly as long and the matrix only failed because the engine blew a top coolant hose.

    Did you go for dash out or in? I did it dash in, but in hindsight for the small amount of extra work it's much easier out because there is much more access and room to work in.

  9. Posted

    It looks like one of the loom connectors for either the left or right stalk - unless you have a bad earth though, a loose connection here should not really affect engine running.  I'd suggest removing the wheel, after which it's easy enough to remove the cover and the control stalks and inspect all the connections - if it's a case that a wire is loose, it might be possible to re-crimp and solder the terminal.

  10. Posted

      On 4/4/2021 at 7:36 PM, Keyo said:

    Fen them Ford days have gone I would say = I googled the ford part number and nothing came up but as you say worth a go. 

    Part Number

    F7364573

     

    Haha - showing my age! In fairness it's been a long time since I've seen a 6-pot Galaxy on the roads.

  14. Posted

    If it's not completely damaged or sheared off, you should be ok getting it out. This happens all the time on rear callipers, so a mechanic should have plenty of experience. A blast with some compressed air will clear it out, and  a bleed will take other residue out. Only thing is, if the nipples are seized in, it's possible the calliper could do with a rebuild or replacement as well - a good time to upgrade to Mk4 rears maybe?

  17. Posted

    If you have a small butane torch, a bit of heat can loosen these nicely because the calliper body is alloy.  I make a point of never going near these without a proper five or six sided brake spanner or a hollow ratchet socket (Halfords used to do a nice set). Can you hammer a torx/spline bit or driver in enough to allow you to apply enough twisting force to shift it?

  19. Posted

    Maybe some old oil in there. The gear box also has to be in use a little bit to spread the oil. I'm not sure where you are seeing the oil come out - do you mean somewhere near the shift tower at the front?

  20. Posted

      On 3/29/2021 at 3:29 PM, fla said:

    Easypops - well what can i say.  The guy is a top salesman and a true gent,(although salesman is perhaps not the right word)

    Many thanks indeed - on behalf of my friend too 🙂

     

    Hasan

    Always great to see something like this - easypops has helped me out a few times over the years as well, and always a pleasure to deal with!

  22. Posted

    Well, mine was just an opinion - not speaking from mechanics experience obviously, just my own car. There was an undertray fitted to the Golf 2 TD/GTD - maybe this could be modified to fit? Or it would be relatively easy to injection mould or press such an item.

    Personally while I see the attractions of a cleaner engine bay, I'd still like as much cold air getting in there as possible.

  24. Posted

    I think you'll find the VR6 suffers from overheating under the best of conditions and the engine bay temps get very high - an under tray would probably restrict the airflow and hence the cooling. Also, the older engines of this era tend to leak a bit of oil, so that would collect there.

    There were usually two plastic flat air guide pieces fitted on each corner of the front splitter - these usually go missing after the bumper has been off a couple of times.

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