fendervg

Injector leak-down is a good shout, also worth checking residual fuel pressure is not dropping too quickly. Some on here had some success resolving long crank times using a non-return valve on the fuel pump feed, but there are so many variables and components that could be old and faulty in the loop that it can take a bit of time to track down.

If you are the thread owner, go to the first post in the thread and click "Edit" at the bottom - this should let you change the title. One of the moderators should be able to make it sticky too.

Great stuff - step 13, the 3 bulkhead bolts (although in reality they are shouldered bolts with a shouldered nut and captive washer) is vital - if they spin instead of coming off you may as well give up or allow a full extra day to get them out - you can remove the matrix with them in place if needed, but cutting them off is tricky due to access - in the end I had to jam a hex driver under the bulkhead and use another on the firewall side to break them free. They can be hard to source as well, but are common for all Mk2 cars.

The lights might just be that the bilbs have burned out and need replacing hopefully. Does the rest of the dash lighting work?

I think someone else on here had the same issue with a heater matrix not fitting, being a little too tall - what brand did you use? Also make sure the cables that operate the flaps move freely and don't have any kinks in them - a little bit of PTFE lubricant can help. The cable housings will have a sharp curve on them when fitted, wich makes it harder to operate them.

Your own budget is always a good place to start. Then why not make an offer your are happy to pay? There is plenty of info on auction sites, fleabay and the trade sites to allow you to get an average - if you are really want to buy a car, buy the best you can afford with a focus on good bodywork and as little rust/rot as possible. These were never, and certainly aren't anymore, "commodity" cars where one example the same age, miles and condition is equivalent to another, as there are too many variables - a lot depends on the buyer as well and what they are looking for. Having said all thar - if it's not a Storm (and can't be based on the year I'd say) it's a bit steep and 10-12k would be more realistic for me, but without seeing photos and looking at the carr that's just a guess. The quality of the respray is important, and slow how long ago "things were done", backd by receipts. A full glass out respray will easily set you back 5k if done properly, however a seller will not be able to revoup everything spent on a car at sale time.

They are different. Early dogs can be removed as a unit, later ones are moulded into the fog/indicator housing and only the glass can be removed with a lot of effort. The difference in the covers is probably to allow for them to clip on properly. If you bring up pics on Google of early and late Corrado fogs, you will see the difference.

At least you can be sure they will go in and out nice and easy! Not sure how it will be to drive - are there different grades of the rear poly bushes?

Pretty sure this is the figure for the bolt that goes through the bush - I guess this is where the rear axle pivots

From the Fountain of Truth:

Is the white clip from the door handle, where it sits in the door cutout?

Good pointers there on the ABS. As for the radio, if that was the last thing inI I’d definitely remove it and inspect the wiring for any weirdness. These cars came with a radio loom from factory, so there should be no need to splice in anywhere.

You won’t need a fuse if you are replacing the whole blower unit, as the fuse is part of it. I replaced mine mainly because it was noisy and sounded like it was on its last legs. I think any of the ones listed for Corrado will work - to be sure, take the old one out and check the part number and cross-reference. Hope this helps.

I think anyone can view, but you need to be paid up to post in most sections. I don’t think there was any way to stop a new user from having access to PMs, hence this kind of scam, but it is generally easy to spot. There is no reason to conduct an initial for sale post in private and it is against the rules. Classifieds a re a bit of a grey area, because someone may have a car or decent parts to sell but won’t want to pay for a subscription.

Absolute chancer!

No worries - the setup is very similar to a Golf Mk2, with 4 speeds instead of 3 I think, and the motor is easy enough to get to. Check the fuses as well. When I replaced mine I got a Valeo motor unit, and have had no issues since, but I think there quite a few options available. Check this out as well: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/fan_speed_thermal_fuse_repair.html https://www.auto-doc.ie/car-parts/blower-parts-10449/vw/corrado/corrado-53i/1753-1-8-g60 I'd opt for one of the more expensive quality options (Vemo/Valeo/Meyle/Bosch) for peace of mind's sake.

I'm on here pretty much every day as I work from home, so if you want to add me back in I'm happy to help out again. I think what happened is that the setting was reverted when membership sub renewed.

Not sure anymore - Toby is the site owner and admin, and there was a group of users who were given moderator rights to cut down on spam and scammers. I used to have the rights, but don't anymore - there will "moderator" instread of "subscriber" underneath the user avatar picture on the left of the post.

It's the same setup for Mk2/3, Passat etc. and any VAG car with the old style stub axles and taper bearings and the standard 226 discs. Only difference is between ABS and non ABS to allow clearance for the sensor ring. They will come out in one piece with very gentle persuasion, but are easily bent and damaged. A lot of the wheel bearing kits used to include these.

Absolutely crazy - but I've seen used ones go for around the 500 mark.

This is correct - I've seen quite a few NCT fails on taper bearings because testers were no longer familiar with them - there shoul be a small amount of play in them when properlyy adjusted. Part of the adjustment process is to tighten them and then back off.

Agreed - and even basic parts that used to be available at good quality from a known manufacturer now seem to have been replaced with a flood of cheap replicas that are not to be trusted.

Ha ha - mystery solved - some great sleuthing there - I would never have guessed this.

Looks like a neolithic axe head to me - time for a trip to the local museum! In fairness VW are well known for having a part # on practically everything, even the smallest bits. A couple of guesses from me would be clips that hold on the heat shields or maybe part of the internals of an exhaust rubber hanger? But I've never come across a piece like that before in many years of Corrado tinkering.