fendervg

Check the blue/white wire in the radio loom - it is probably connected wrong or earthing against something randomly. It should only be connected if you have a radio that support speed dependent volume control (GALA) and not many do. Otherwise, the spoiler control module may be at fault, and worth swapping out with one that is known to work.

Could it be for the UK dim dip connector for the headlights? Although I would expect that to be part of the headlight wiring loom.

Ideally yes. because they need to be pressed or hacked out, and then the new ones pressed in - or it's possible to cut them out with a lot of work, but either way it's a lot easier with the beam off., but it can be done with the rear suspension off and the axle dropped with great difficulty. Gives you a chance to refurb the beam as well. Poly bushes are much easier to fit, but I would only use the OEM ones on the rear beam. I'd say someone else here may have done them on the car and might be able to help.

For the cables, I'd say you could just try and work some spray PTFE lubricant into them - something like bicycle chain oil. The problem is that you can't get the inner out, although it's ususally just the exposed ends that corrode, and the casing has a non-friction lining. It's once they are clipped on and there are bends in the cable that the force required to move them can increase a lot. If you can get hold of new ones I'd recommend that.

That's weird - there's definitely some tolerance out at the bottom or the side - or the top molding has warped. It will still work though, but you would need to seal the gap to prevent blower air from escaping, but I think I would just return it as nto fit for purpose. I think the last one I fitted was Valeo or Hella. Was that one listed as a Mk3 Golf version?

I reckon for that price it has to include late fogs!

It's for the very rare Karmann factory camper conversion....table extends at 45mph and retracts at 20 (if it's working)............

Haha - just watching the first bit of the video - you can see the sterring wheel jump up and down as he hits a pothole - "severely compromised" indeed.

The blue white wire has a three way joint and provides a speed signal to the dash. spoiler control module and optionally the stereo. If the unterminated one to the steroe gets grounded or hooked up to something else it will wreak havoc. Usually the result of an aftermarket stereo being fitted, as the original harness would have had that wire tucked into the correct position in the radio ISO harness plug. I use the GALA feature all the time with my Gamma IV head unit - works a treat once you calibrate it.

VW Classic Parts still have the boot popper and the rubber bump top - got some last year. They don't have the square plastic nut though, you'd need to use your old one if possible - but the usual break point is where the plastic lip is attached to the plunger - once that snaps the plunger won't stay put.

"topran" says it all really - any parts place with an interest in quality shouldn't be selling that stuff.

Good to hear! They are a bit stubborn - at leas now you know they are new and won't crumble - the window should operate a bit better as well.

Ah, knowing their usual form, I bet they had a few boxes of the US spec part left over lying around - probably sent back to Germany by VW USA after they were found in Area 51 or that place they stored the Ark of the Covenant!

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/part/535919044AH?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=B2C | EN | 02%2F2023_Special Deals No use to me with a VR, but could be handy for any of the G-Lader crowd. Reduced from 115 to 24 euro.

Put the glass in the half-open position and this should give enough access - it will still be slightly obscured by the inner door panel. Then a bit of gentle persuasion with a large flat blade driver should get it off - a bit of warming up with a hair dryer or heat gun will help as well. Oh, and be careful if operating the window with one roller off - you'll need to support it a bit as it operates.

A small bit of grease and a long water pump pliers worked fine for me to fit the rollers - put them in the channel. line up the ball on the arm and a slight amount of preasure should do it. You might need to move the window up and down to get the optimum position to get at it.

Just an idea - there is a central locking actuator wire that goes from the door handle to a connection clipped on to the door panel - it is suppsed to go down the rear wall of the door - there are two cable clips that sit in holes in the panel - maybe these have come loose and it is catching on the glass? Easy way to check would be to remove the handle securing screw and see how far you can pull the handle out - with the cable tight it should hardly budge at the lock end. The silicone grease is a good plan as well.

Does anyone have any of these - lookingfor two in good condition, part# 535837865, and cover the access aperature on the rear of the door, near the lock. All the usual sources seem to be out of stock, although it looks like they were available recently enough: https://www.nkautomotive.de/shop/en/product/56331/original-vw-cover-cap-535837865.html Otherwise, I'll take a look at cutting a template out of vinyl adhesive or something. Thanks

Yeah, they don't seem to care that the cars that got them to where they are today were the Type 81/85/89 cars - the Ur Quattro, Coupe and 80/90/100s. and the Group B rally era. They have a few in storage that they can roll out for press events and don't give a toss about enthusiasts trying to restore or keep these models on the road. That's they way it was in 2003 when I bought mine, and I hear it's not much better, if even worse, today.

KV engine code - naturally aspirated inline 5, 2226cc as far as I remember. Not the fasted but still 0-60 near enough 8 secs, and with the quattro drivetrain it was always quick off the line and sure footed in the corners! The I5 engines were silky smooth, with oodles of torque - an absolute pleasure to drive, whether fast or cruising - I've never driven any other car where I like the engine as much.

I had an 1987 Coupe Quattro until about 10 years ago - parts were impossible to fine, even worse than the Corrado. There were only about 700 or so made in RHD, so a rare car.

Ha ha - on the last page you need to squint to make out the winner at the bottom! Although you can figure it out from the rest - the only thing I thought is that they had made their mind up already based on the beginning requirements and had picked some cars that were obviously not going to fit the bill. There's a clear preference for open-top two seaters expressed, and they would easily have found a few more in that category - if the Mazda had been in it it would have won.

Interesting - so I guess it must just be age related then - btw, I meant possible damage in storage/handling and transit by the suppliers, not on the customer's part. Didn't mean to imply that you had damaged your own pump!

IF the Mk3 pump has the same swirl pot mountings and location for the fuel level sender, it should work. I think the cracking problems are not so much poor quality (not generally an issue with VDO) but the result of age (these might well be 20 years old), poor storage and bad handling in transit and warehouses. It definitely means you should check them over carefully after receiving one. I don't think the swirl pot would disentigrate anyway.

I think there are very few 4 bar pumps out there - nearly all sites list the 3 bar pumps as being suitable for all VR6 engines, AAA/ABV/1.8/2.9 - I've never tried it to see what happens - you could probably either change the FPR, or hope the 4 bar regulator lets the pressure build up. It's also possible to buy individual motorsport pumps of the right output, and there are billet mounting plates available that can fit onto the grooves in the tank floor if you want to go down that route - it's a bit more expensive, but hey, the price of a new VDO that may or may not be past its sell by date isn't cheap either!