fendervg

Yeah, it was a pain when it happened as I had no pump at all - and when something like that happens, it can be hard proving that it wasn't your fault - but luckily I've been doing business with that particular parts specialist for years and several different cars, so they trusted me and were happy to replace FOC. Even when I've had dodgy parts with no return possible, they have sold me a replacement at cost.

I think some of these can be new old stock that was manufactured quite a while ago - I can hardly see them making large runs of them new recently. I had one at one point where the nozzle broke clean off after test fitting a hose, not even tightened with clip or anything and had to get it replaced with another one.

Absolutely - nicely done. I would be happy to in buying some off you as well if you get around to making a run of them.

Thanks - yep, keeping an eye on that thread. I have a NOS wiper linkage frame and my motor is in good condition, and also have a new short link - so just looking to get hold of the longer linkage now.

It's the molded on bushes that go and cause slop in the linkage - that's why I'm hoping to find a NOS one from the group buy if possible rather than second hand - the old on I have still works ok, but with a bit of play, and is likely to be at least as good as any s/h one.

Thanks Keyo - don't need a motor, but good find on the small link piece. I'll seeif I can order it. 17 looks to be unavailable, only the left hand drive version in stock, so still looking for that one.

Looking for the long wiper linkage arm for RHD, 536955326. I have the shorter one, and I know there was a group buy on these, or a lot was bought from Classic Parts (now out of stock), so wodering if anyone has one squirrelled awaty that they'd be willing to part with - currently rebuilding the whole wiper assembly. Would also be interested in the short link rod (#2 in picture), if available. I think someone on the FB group said they had one, but for the life of me I can't find the post again! Many thanks.

Interesting - I've never seen the foam stops on any I've taken out, Corrado or Mk2/Mk3 over the years, must be at least hald a dozen, so I guess it must be one of the first things to degrade and fall off - it would stop that banging sound when the flap is open/closed fully. Something to remember when doing the next one

You can take an interior light feed from the cigarette lighter socket or any of the dash bulbs. The glove boxlight is also permanently live with ignition on, so it depends on when you want them to come on. LEDs will usually have a small ballast or resistor pack with them, so check that this comes with your kit.

Sticky backed felt from an arts/hobby supply shop was what I used as well, some others have used adhesive foil tape - but you need it to be slightly porous. It really does need to come out for you to take it apart though - buy you can leave the cables attached as you remove it and take the control dials and the heater box out as a unit, if you are worried about the cables. It will make it easier to see how it works and goes back together.

Hmm - yeah, MAF is really only used for hot running when the full ECU map kicks in - I'd be looking for vacuum leaks and leaky injectors first for cold running issues.

The heater box will need to come out in order for you to take it apart to access the flaps properly - so it makes sense to replace the matrix and the control cables at the same time if you can.

2.8 pump would be 3 bar - but runnning a higher pressure pump would work fine as the fuel pressure regulatero would take care of the difference - not so convinced it would work the other way around though.

What about the equivalent ones from a Passat? Did they come in black?

Here’s some photos of the VDO set up:

That's the one - so from a late car running the VDO originally the sender will just swap over on to the new swirl pot housing.

No worries - are you buying the full pump and swirl pot? I may have some pics that show the VDO setup - leave it with me

Hi - a late 95 car should already have a VDO pump in it, as the Pierburg was only used for about 18 months for the early VRs. Your fuel gauge sender and float should just swap straight over on to a new VDO pump or swirl pot.

Good stuff - I'm in the middle of rebuilding mine due to corrosion and still looking for the long link arm - I have the short one from a group buy on here a while back.

Hmmmm. The engine bay lets it down imho - the cone filter etc. just look cheap and would have been easy to put back to original. I would also have thought that it would make more sense to remove the VSR and sell it sepearately with all the ancillaries, unless the seller no longer has the original manifold? Suspensions is really a personal preference, so I wouldn't pay any premium for the V3s, good as they can be, but would rather by with standard or B4/B6 and stock springs and then see how I want to go. Anyways, wishing the seller GLWS, I do like the silver.

They look nasty - you can actually use a fine tweezers or a large paperclip cut to a U shape. The good tools are a bit pricey: https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/7293/Connector-and-Terminal-Removal-Kit bust something like this will be better than what you have: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133095877729?hash=item1efd21ec61:g:mygAAOSwph1dE0ge If you are doing a complete loom, it's worth investing in a small and large version of this: https://www.kufatec.com/en/accessories-spare-parts/tools/pin-removal-tool-small-pins-35496

It's unlikely that the wires will have been completely removed, so you will likely just need to locate them and then splice into them. What make of head unit do you want to connect? Some other brands need permanent and switched live reversed compared to the stock VW ones. As above, you just need three wires to power it up. If all else fails you can take them from behind the fusebox, just make sure you have a fuse on. Below are the pin-outs on a standard VW Gamma IV, and then the pdf is the wiring plan for the same radio and gives the wire colours. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf

There should be a small allen key nipple on the left front of the fuel rail, used for connecting a pressure tester or for de-pressurising the system - so no need to undo a hose. Easiest way to test if the pump is working is to bypass the relay or hook up a 12v leisure battery to the connector at the tank. If it was humming loudly and stopped, it's most likely given up and died, probably due to contaminants in the tank, but a quick test should rule that out.