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Good tips there - there is also a drain plug on the bottom left of the "crack" pipe, water pump side - you can get to it from underneath. This is the official way of draining the system as it's technically the lowest point, but depending on how old the pipe is it may be seized or will break when you try and open it. To be honest if we are at the full lfush stage, I would advise replacing the pipe and the thermostat housing and thermostat if not done already. I usually fill via the header tank, it will drop quickly when the stat opens and you will need to add more, and work the air out by squeezing the radiator hoses. Some of it will come out via the tank overflow anyway. Then top up, go for a short run at temperature, let it cool and top up again to between min and max marks. Whatever you do don't remove the expansion tank cap when hot as it's pressurised.

I guess they can be used on Mk3s/Passat etc as well, as a lot of the Shricks were set up for OBD2 - they were always more numerous in the US than in Europe anyway. Let's hope they are not being scrapped accidentally!

I'd go for 50/50 too. That must be coming from somewhere, or it could be residual pooling of sludge - I'd check the heater matrix and the thermostat. I guess you would need to check every single pipe and hose. Might also be worth putting some actual rad flush/cleaner through it first - the bare metal will develop surface patina in a couple of hours if it's wet. Most important would be that the cooling system is acutally working to spec - what tends to happen is that if you swap out one part of the system with new, this puts additional pressure on the rest and causes a failure somewhere else.

No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!

Well - took about 5 hours over 2 days, but I finally managed to remove and replace the black heater control cable that operated the defrost/heat flap! This is the one that runs from the control on the left with the two cables, over and around the matrix and attacehes to the flap lever in the drivers footwell, not too far from the clutch pedal - an absolute nightmare to get to. Those metal clips are tricky, and the one on the flap end is well nigh impossible to get to, and the hardest part was getting the cable attached securely again. But after lots of swearing, breaks and contortions I have a nicely working and smooth heaer control again that doesn't stick and feel like it is about to break. Debating now on whether to remove the metal clip for the positions stops, although mine seems to work pretty well, and the second cable is moving freely. The heater control box was reconditioned and all the flaps relined not too long ago. Next job on the list is the foliage seal cover....

Good call as well, but that would usually have been picked up on during a clutch change - happens to all cars too, I had them go on a Mk2 and Mk5 Golf, so not VR6 specific. I now tend to ask them to check it and replace if needed as a precaution.

Never heard this before - the master/slave clutch arrangement is used on lots of other cars, and was standard on the Passat and later Golfs - so tried and tested. The actual clutch on the VR is considered to be rateed well over what is required for the VR and it is not uncommon for them to go well over 100k, even 150k on an unmodified car. Your problem is most likely to do with the gear linkage which might need adjustment or a rebuild - some of the plastic busjes and linkages are prone to wear. My first step would be to change the gear box oil with some Redline MT90 or equivalent if this hasn't been done recently, and do a proper adjustment. After that investigate refurbishing the linkage and shift tower bushings - some even upgrade to a later mech from a MkIV or Polo and have never had any issues since. Do as search here on shift linkage adjustment etc and the procedure will come up - there is a special VAG tool for it, but it is not needed, it simply centres the gear lever while you adjust the linkage in the engine bay, but a friend can do this duty for you.

One interesting variation was the "Aktiv" speaker system, these were Nokia speakers that were directly powered, active units - paired with a head unit that had not active pre-amp out stage, so wouldn't work with normal speakers. There was a rare Gamma CD unit designed for the Aktiv system, that as far as I know was the only CD head unit from that era, probably because losing the amplification stage made some extra room for the older CD mechanism - the rest all had casette units with CD changers. It's pretty rare to see now, comes up in the odd Golf Cabrio, but I have seen evidence of a couple of Corrados being fitted with it. It didn't necessarily sound any better, but an interesting oddity nonetheless.

Can you heae the tweeters working? I remember reading somehwere that there was actually a cross-over of some kind in the factory tweeters, but not sure if that's true - I guess the real reason is that the factory stereos jsut have 4x speaker output, so needs to be wired that way.

Would you really be bothered putting the old original tweeters back in? They weren't that great to begin with and will have suffered the ravages of time at this stage. Small tweeter/speaker technology has really come on since then, and you should be able to to find something modern that fits and actually works - once the trim is on you won't see a difference. Another alternative is jsut to fit decent components in the doors and leave the dash ones empty - although I do get wanting to have everything back to factory 100%. although I've never heard of a show where a judge asks you to lift the speaker grille to check for the Nokia logo! Nokia were better at making phones anyway, and even that didn't last.. (actually they made way more selling backbone carrier and mast equipment and firewalls - don't ask me how I know).

Hey, that's some great research and tinkering there - this could be the solution. Will have a good read. Thanks for the effort and the sharing!

Never - the odd time they come up on US eBay as part of a whole throttle body, but the asking price was never worth it just to get the one part. In the end I gave it all a good clean, replaced the throttle cable and fixed any air leaks (ISV damper, PCV valve) and replaced the cam sensor as well, and that seemed to fix my issues for the time being.

Probably the cable got slack over the years, or stretched a bit. Nice easy result. The dashpot is actually an Audi part - almost impossible to get hold of, NLA and only ever seems to come up as part of a breaker's throttle body - it's also OBD1 specific. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/dashpot/034133283/ I remember spending a long time scouring the interwebs looking for one a few years back.

Wheel bearing? Also check the bearings on all the pulleys and the main tensioner for the aux belt.

That's a good price if he actually has it - I think I tried to order one off them before and it never shipped and had to get a refund in the end.

Fuel Pump VDO E22-041-060Z Fuel level sender VDO 221-833-002-011Z If you already have a VDO pump (which you should have on a 95) you can jut swap your old sender over. Try Mr Auto, Autodoc.de and fleaBAy - also a specialist motor factor should be able to source from VDO directly, and they have a UK warehouse.

No smoking! Carb spray on likely suspects can also work.

The code you are thinking of that always comes up with the engine not running is: DTC "00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal" This is for the crank position sensor at the front bottom of the block, and shows up because it is obviously not getting a signal so can be ignored. It will go awat as soon as the engine is turning. For the one above, I would check the MAF, replace with a known good one if possible as a test, check fuel pressure and also test for air leaks anywhere in the inlet - you can also get a vacuum gauge that you can plumb in with a t-piece to measure the manifold pressure.

Yep, any air getting in after the MAF will cause problems with idle, as eventually it will exceed the ability of the ISV to compensate. Most likely culprits are the small hoste from the FPR to the inlet manifold, the ISV damper box and tubing, PCV and associated pipework and the brake servo and related hoses.

PM sent - thanks

I can remove if needed - I think one or two pages should be fine for fair use, it's not the whole book after all. Plus I can prove I own one and paid for it. If it's an issue let me know. Save as

This one for the VR6 "plus-achsel" wide track suspension

For 4-cylinder cars

Some torque settings to be found here: https://wiki.the-corrado.net/torque_settings_and_bolt_sizes.html

I run 15" OEM Speedlines with 288s with no fouling issues - it's tight, but the tyre shop just used a different profile balance weight and put somewhere else on the rim.