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About stevef

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  1. stevef

    VR6 ABS Problem

    Sorry to say that you will need a modulator. You can confirm the fault by removing the connector on the front centre of the modulator and using a multimeter check if between the top left pin and the middle left pin is between 3.5 an 7.5 ohms. If you are lucky it will be OK but more likely it will be OC. Look on ebay for a replacement. Saw one recently for £35. Good luck
  2. CV's while changing gear????? Never heard a CV make a noise while traveling in a straight line. If they make a noise in a straight line then find a deserted carpark, apply full lock and put your boot down with the window open. You will hear the CV's if they have gone!!!! If you get no click-click noise doing the above on either steering lock check the gearbox mounting. If a rusty couloured liquid is on top of it change both it and the front engine mounting. If no liquid is present then check/replace the front engine mounting. Hope this helps.
  3. I have VAG-COM and a 16 pin connection lead. I will help anybody in the Manchester area with a reading. Cheers
  4. stevef

    Engine Speed Sensor

    Cheers guys you have put my mind at ease. £140 - wow!!
  5. I have just repaired my ABS so used VAG-COM to clear the stored error in the ABS control unit. While there I checked the engine ECU and to my horror had the following code stored... 00513 Engine speed sensor no signal. I cleared the code and started the engine (I read the code with ignition on but not running) and the error has not returned - yet!!! Could the error be down to me having the ignition on with the engine not running? If it is the sensor where is it and how much to replace? Cheers
  6. stevef


    I have now registered with Ross-Tech and all is functioning correctly. Should have baught the cable from the as well but we live and learn eh!!! Hope it serves me well. Stevef
  7. My crankcase vetilation valve has broken. It is the one on the rear left of the cam cover (VR6). I have been to the stealer and the say that they cannot supply this part? They want to sell me the air inlet pipe, from the MAF to the throttle body, for £60 +VAT as it comes as part of this!!!!!!!!!!!!! I then went to my local Ford agent and he has supplied the part for £18. Not sure if this is a common problem but I have seen others bodged on in the past. Now I know why! FYI it is Ford part number F7364573. It also has the following number which looks very VW on the body of the new valve 7M0 128 101. Moderators--- Not sure if this is in the correct section so sorry just in case. Stevef
  8. stevef

    ABS light arghhhhh!!

    Andy The unit under the bonnet is the ABS modulator. From your description the problem is not on that unit. As said above, the control unit is in the LH kick panel. The sensor cables are the thick black ones. Happy hunting. Stevef
  9. Mine was blocked recently. I don't think it moves, it points straight up the middle of the window. The washer jet comes in 2 parts, a long plastic tube with an elbow goes in from the bottom and a smaller pipe with the jet in it goes in from the top (after raising the plastic cover). They come out OK if you give them a firm tug. But I am sure they don't turn with the wiper. Stevef
  10. Oh dear. I had a Mk2 16 valve on which this pulley had failed. I too purchased a £40 replacement but I noticed a second problem before I fitted mine. The broken pulley had battered the PAS pulley so that its belt didn't run central to the double pulley. In fact, on removal, the PAS pulley was ground away on one side and bent. This costs £17 I think. Check for this if you can. I didn't have any problems after I replaced both pulleys for the following 2 years I had the car Good luck! SteveF
  11. stevef

    ABS light arghhhhh!!

    For a start the sensors should read 1k to 1.3K or 1000 to 1300 OHMS depending on how you prefer your figures. If you checked one of the sensors and it was OC then there is a problem! From the ABS controller the sensors are connected pins 30+48 LHF, 29+47 RHF, 28+46 LHR and 27+45 RHR. As far as I can tell the cables for the ABS sensors only have one join each between them and the controller. The fronts are on the strut tops and the rears under the rear seats (find the catch under the front edge of the seat base and give it a push with a screwdriver while lifting the seat). The cables can be seen in the harness at the controller as all 4 are black and thicker than the others. I would remove the parcel shelves and the rear seats and try to get an idea as to how the cables are routed - through bulkheads etc - then follow them. CABLES ALWAYS BREAK AT A POINT WHERE THEY FLEX, JOIN OR ARE SECURED. They seldom break if laying in a cable form that is not being moved or stressed. Look at the sensor ends, the joining connectors and where the cables pass through the bulkheads or are secured. Hope this helps.
  12. stevef


    I used the release 311-2 shareware software once and it worked OK. I then tried to use a few features and it looked for other modules Ok and found the ABS. It read the ABS OK also. When I then tried to read the ECU a second time it just looks for and finds it but goes back up a menu level so that it won't read the DTC's. I suppose I will have the register then. I got the connector from a link on EBAY not from Ross-Tech. Looks like it may have been false economy eh!!!
  13. stevef


    Just got a connector and downloaded the shareware version of VAG-COM. Read my error codes first time but is unwilling to do any more. Is the shareware version realy this restrictve or am I doing something wrong? Is it better to just pay the registration fee? Cheers Stevef
  14. On closer inspection of the image It looks like the rotor arm is high? Is it that the top of the rotor arm is hitting the 2 front terminals? The early 16v engines had the rotor glued to the driveshaft. Was this not to prevent this? Beat me up when you see me if I am talking rubbish!!!
  15. I am in no way as experienced in these things as most of you guys but, if my memory serves me correctly, when I last changed a cap on a valver I too thought that 2 of the contacts had been worn away. The thing is, when I obtained a replacement it too apeared the same. I think it is the way they are made. In the first picture you can see that 2 contacts have cutouts behind them and 2 not. I think that it is this that makes them appear worn? Just an optical illusion IMHO.
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