colinstubbs

That's exactly my problem in my sig edit box I have it as an THAT'S BLOODY DAFT!!!!!!! Is it a format issue with the new layout??

Any ideas why my signature picture won't display correctly???

Defeated by speedo cable :( checked as far as I could and all seems ok, checked both glovebox light connections to earth, negative was no surprise full deflection open circuit but the positive also connected showing a only a couple of ohms (ohmmeter adjustment is screwed so no accurate figure) surely this shouldn't have happened???? Is this my short circuit or is this normal????

Ah the pins yes, I kinda remember now, surround was already of so i've removed the clear cover unnecessarily but all the screws are out - I'll just have to be a bit careful - Cheers Cazza :)

Hello all long time no see but my C's blowing fuse 16 like its going out of fashion. I thought it was the spoiler so wasn't too bothered but guess what ......that fuse stops the battery charging as I found out at Notcutts at midday in the middle of the blazing hot carpark when I'd run out of battery juice! Got sorted to home by RAC jumping and fooling the alternator to energise but now I can't trace the issue. So far these still work: Number plate lights Sunroof Clock These DON'T work: Dash warning lights Temp, Fuel, Rev gauges MFA Spoiler Edit: oem radio supply (not in use but no power either) I have previously done some Headunit swapping but with the main stereo fuse direct from battery removed 16 still blows so its not that. Disconnected spoiler motor and switch to discount cabling & 16 blows. I'm guessing I'll have to trace wiring from the back of the dash gauges, I've disconnected the four screws holding them and the cover in but they seem to be catching - I've had them off before but can't remember the score - will I break something if I just yank it hard??!! Any general pointers welcome, this isn't how I'm s'posed to be spending my sick leave but its my only transport :(

It looked a little strange to start with but really cleans up the light esp with loom and uprated bulbs. All looks darker when the weather isn't so bright!

Sorry for the delay Dragon Green - this is by phone and the sunny weather washes out the tints a bit but not loads.. [ATTACH=CONFIG]64349[/ATTACH] ........ and the headlamps mid tint. [ATTACH=CONFIG]64353[/ATTACH]

If you're anal about headlamp output use the blue tint as it 'whitens' up the light, looks different too!! I used that on the headlamps and subtle tint on the indicators n fogs

Second vote for the 928s, they are aero wipes and are offset as Rob described, sounds like you have Lupo arms mate ;)

Got told by Stealers a passenger outer cv joint for 1990 valver was obsolete a couple of weeks ago....:scratch:

Pat is this still waiting??? I've been away from the forum for some time but i'd be happy to get a new number plate plinth and the attactment nut thingies! edit ..........and a late red 16v grill badge, :thumbleft:

deffo giving these a go!!

Green C. at Ringlestone service station Maidstone, I whizzed past on the bus -looked nice :) Just now!

Mine are nudging at the garage door as we speak Kev lol!!!

you'll find the attachment tabs are different, late grill to early C is doable so i don't see why early grill to late C shouldn't be as easy. The bottom tabs line up but the top ones will have to be removed unless you happen to have one of the jack-of-all-rade slam panels with holes for everything!! Going low for the winter? You've not heard the weather doom and gloom snow predictions for the season then?!!! Happy ploughing ;)

I was gonna say what Yan said about the water pump having recently suffered! If you remove the thermostat you can get your fingers on the pump impellor, if the impellor turns with the belt still fitted then the pump needs changing unless you have a slack @rse belt!! Get a VW pump if you need to replace it, my last pattern one only did 30k miles before spinning the impellor whereas the original had done 185k and I only changed it cos it started to leak!! VW one is more expensive but much better value and better construction too!! The C now has an original one fitted again, oil temps 90C water around 80C :thumbleft:

what's the red chain for ???? :)

Been awhile! I got the pump changed ok and all the ancillaries put back on and now it only seems to get to about 85C on the 18 mile drive to work, not really worried by that to be honest (although if the gauge is reading a bit low......how high had it really got before!!!???) There is the small issue of grounding out reversing onto my drive at 2330hrs tuesday evening and rupturing the pressure fuel line from the filter forward but the new line should be ready to collect today - although I've been advised it's now an obsolete item and that's the last one in the UK at the mo, I'll try and get more info when I collect it. I'd be lying if I didn't admit the a 'head in the hands' moment when I realised what I'd just done LOL Temp repair on the fuel line (fuel line sleeving the break with two jubilee clips) seems top work a treat - no major rush to replace the buggered one then!! Less stress at the mo!! hurrah!

from the Full Site homepage I wish to select 'settings' but keep getting banged out to a page with 'We are sorry, this content is not supported via the mobile style.' If i then hit Full Site at the bottom of the page it sends me to a full site homepage where I can go round and round in circles!! All this other pages seem to go to mobile sytle as well! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've removed the old pump and the impellor is loose so that is probably my overheating issue, unfortunately one of the attachment bolts is sheared so i'm looking at drilling that out tomorrow and re-tapping or trying some easi-outs, not sure if easi-outs will work well in a cast iron block??? Any preferences in that department??

Got a sheared pump attachment bolt to sort out now but at least the pump impeller is loose and crap so that should be the issues solved!! Fingers crossed eh?

IIRC it's a pattern pump with a metal impeller, I hope this is the problem, I may get round to whipping off today so i'll update if I do - if not it'll be tomorrow. Kinda dreading getting it off and finding nothing wrong with it :(

It seems to have got worse Yan, had to pull over on the way home. To compound my misery I left keys in the ignition and the car locked itself, it looked like rain and my phone was nearly dead! My wife came to the rescue with spare keys, I had coolant onboard. New pump coming Tuesday.

No apparent blockage, thinking it must be the pump, IIRC I'd bought and fitted a pattern one before reading on here it's a sh!te idea :( Into work today and stopped once it got to 74c on the gauge to check under bonnet and it was boiling in the top hose. Just hope i can get it home ok. Of course i'm off this Monday but it's a fecking BH so no parts til Tuesday, although the chap did see if he could have got it in today but just a tad too late. VW waterpump £49.80 after the surcharge just for the record.

great changed coolant thermostat and oil while i was at it, bottom hose stays cold and i've fitted brand geniune VW 'stat and tested it opened before fitting. Gonna have to try and see if the is a blockage somewhere, the rad seemed fine, went in the top and came out the bottom and vice versa. I just can't see why the bottom hose is not warming up, the fan switch eventually comes on even driving and of course on turning off. I'm gonna go through all the hoses and engine block holes and squirt them all with water. Something is amiss, i'll also se if i can scrounge some 22mm copper pipe from a plumber up the road and delete the matrix bypass valves. Not getting any hot air either, although i was to start with.....