Engine mount bolt sheared - advice please?

[craigowl 0]

Afte removing front of car, I have been replacing thermostat housing, oil cooler hoses and crack pipe (with Gruvenparts item) over last few days.

Got good advice on forum search and other places.

This is most the ambitious series of things I have ever done on a car. (Iam 62).

Today, on the last leg, I was replacing the water pump.

I jacked up engine after removing front mount and right hand mount bolts and loosening gearbox one.

 

After fitting pump, and lowering engine slowly, right hand rear engine mount bolt sheared as I was tightening up to torque. :( :(

$hit - so fed up now. :(

 

My questions are:

1 - Will car be driveable to garage about 1.5 miles at other side of town (I have moved it backwards and forwards a little in the drive)?

2 - Will this involve the garage in much expensive labour? - How will they tackle this? - Will they be able to do it without removing engine? - Will drilling out the sheared 2cm of bolt be a straightforward operation, bearing in mind you can hardly get to the b##### bolt?

 

Come on guys, cheer me up. :(

[craigowl 0]

No one?

 

I now see on other forums that the engine mount bolts are called "stretch bolts" and are "for one use only" and should be replaced with new ones after removal. $hit! - Wish I had known this. I am fussy about things like that and would have had them ready.

 

I recommend any one doing this job gets spare bolts.

[plateletboy 0]

How much has sheared off..?? or rather, how much is left poking out?? if some is poking out you maybe able to get a big pair of mole grips or stilsons on it.....

 

failing that if not enough is poking out, drill a suitable size hole in the middle of it and whap in a nice big easy out....

 

Of course as you have said getting to it is the worst part, but as your engine is drained from doing the water pump you can whip the expansion tank out, and all th hosing to give yourself loads of room....

 

unfortunately paying garages to do annoying frustrating jobs like this is all time and labour.....

 

chin up..

 

pb

[Toad 0]

After fitting pump, and lowering engine slowly, right hand rear engine mount bolt sheared as I was tightening up to torque. :( :(

$hit - so fed up now. :(

 

You mean right hand when in the drivers seat?

 

What torque did you go to? I just re-did mine "tight".

 

Can you jack the engine up slightly and reach the bolts to remove the mounting casting from the block?

 

I'd proabably just go for a new mount, iirc there are only 2 bolts from below to remove and you can get the entire rubber mount out.

[craigowl 0]

Thanks platelet boy and Toad - your ideas sound bang on from further stuff I have read. Never drilled out a bolt, personally, so for an easier life , I have had to book car into garage tomorrow.

 

They are going to charge about £108 including VAT for fitting new mount and bolt. (Mount costs about £56 but I thought I might as well have 12-year old one replaced.) One hour labour is good of them, I thought - I have had enough of wrestling with things!

 

PS - Toad - torque for bolt (RH side from driver's posn) is 44ft lb according to Bentley, IIRC.

17mm bumper ones I did today are about 60!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

That rear mount centre bolt is a complete pain in the arse.....and it's under engineered imo. They bend over time as the engine moves around and sometimes shear off too as you've discovered.

 

I replaced that bolt with a plain high tensile bolt as I don't need the secondary nipple on top to hold the lambda bracket.

[craigowl 0]

THanks for that, cheesewire - I am glad it was not all down to me being a numpty!