Dog Soldier 0 Posted March 5, 2008 Apologies if this is in the wrong place. I own a VW Corrado (2.0L 95 version) and for some inexplicable reason the electric windows have stopped working. I've changed the fuses around and that hasn't remedied the situation. Anyone have any previous experience of this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 5, 2008 Welcome to the forum, we'll move to interior I think... Fuses deffo ok? I assume both sides not working at all - no clicks etc? Control unit is behind drivers side rear door card Anything else not working - worth looking at what else is on that circuit in the manual and checking them first... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dog Soldier 0 Posted March 5, 2008 Prior to it going into the garage (for some unrelated work), the electric windows, and mirrors did not work. Everything else fine. Garage had a look at it, said it definitley wasn't the fuse. Said they'd need to get someone in to have a decent look at it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GREENY 0 Posted December 8, 2009 hi did u have any luck with this problem as i have the same??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted December 9, 2009 As above, can you hear anything (clicking etc) when you press the switches? if there's no noise it could well be that your control unit has blown. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GREENY 0 Posted December 9, 2009 As above, can you hear anything (clicking etc) when you press the switches? if there's no noise it could well be that your control unit has blown. :? Whats the control unit?? :? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted December 10, 2009 Its the 'brain' that makes the windows work. Again, when you press the buttons, can you hear anything at all or is it just dead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GREENY 0 Posted December 10, 2009 Sorry mate , just dead! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mariojoshi 1 Posted December 11, 2009 You probably need a new electric window ECU then! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Walesy 0 Posted December 11, 2009 Yeah, assuming you've checked the fuse for them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
matty golf 0 Posted December 13, 2009 on another window problem mine keeps blowing fuses any ideas ha ha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andycowuk 0 Posted December 14, 2009 Hey, Been looking at my leccy windows as they have packed in when they got frozen shut a fortnight ago.... When they first broke, i wiggled the button and they did go down a couple of times at random, and have always gone up easily, so I suspect the control unit can't always "see" me press the down buttons. I have made a few simple checks/observations: Switched the switches around loads to eliminate faulty switch, but am convinced all three cant die together.....[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Fuse 14 is fine[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Can hear control unit click when I press up on any of the 3 buttons[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Nothing on down from any of the 3 buttons[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Central Locking works fine[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Reverse lights work[/*:m:dsfllhbo] I have dropped the fuse box down; on either side there is a pair of connectors about 4 inches in from the A pillar boot that can be split to test the switch harness and the motor harness in each door is OK - no shorting out there, so put fuse box back into place.[/*:m:dsfllhbo] So after sitting on front of the wire diagram with a load of coloured pens to help me make sense of the diagram - gave myself a test procedure for tomorrow: On each switch you have 5 wires: Pin 1 - Brown/White Pin 2 - Gray/Black Pin 3 - Drivers side control wire is green, passenger side control wire is Green/Yellow Pin 4 - Black/Blue Pin 5 - Gray/Red Pins 1 & 4 are for the switch illumination (1 is earth, 4 is 12v from ignition) so can be ignored from this point forward. You'll need to get into the drivers rear quarter to inspect the control unit. when you get there expect to see a brown and black square connector and a white D-connector. Make the following continuity checks with the ignition off (check against earth in case its shorting out)..... Brown plug, pin 1 Green/Yellow - driver side control plug on drivers door pin 3 Green/Yellow [/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 2 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 3 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 4 Green - drivers side control plug pin 3 Green[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 5 Brown/White - Pin 1 on door contact switch (going assume unrelated to problem)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 6 Gray/Black - All 3 control plugs, pin 2 Gray/Black[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 7 Gray/Red - All 3 control plugs, pin 5 gray/red[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 8 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 1 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 2 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 3 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 4 Green/White - Passenger side pin 3 Green/Yellow[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 5 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 6 Red/Yellow - Central locking (various)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 7 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 8 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 1 Brown - Welded point beside fuse panel (As long as it earths, its fine - continuity between plug and chassis)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 2 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 3 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 4 Black/Red - passenger window motor Black[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 5 Brown/Red - Passenger and drivers window motor Brown[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 6 Black - 12v between plug and earth with ignition on via fuse 14 (10A)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 7 Red - Permanent 12v from battery (+) between plug and earth via fuse 52 (20A) Located above Fuse/Relay Panel (Labeled: Central Locking System Fuse)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 8 Black/Yellow - Drivers motor black[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Unlike the brown and black plugs that are odds on one side, evens on the other, the white one is numbered 1 - 4 up one side and 5 - 6 up the other. If you have broken wires then obviously they need replaced. My last test would be to try to connect the motors directly to power source on each polarity, but I doubt they both broke at the same time. If you have no problem, connect back up as a final check. All that leaves is the control module then if you still don't know. HTH Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
andycowuk 0 Posted December 16, 2009 After going through all that I have been able to confirm that their is an intermittent fault on the gray/red cable that is near one of the A-pillars - so I need to unplug one and just see which side is damaged. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fla 9 Posted July 31, 2012 Andy? When you mention checking continuity on the pins, does this mean putting the ohmmeter across each of the labelled pins and ground? In my instance, there is a direct short of fuse 14 with the ignition being turned on. If the ohmmeter is being used, then theoretically there should be no reading? If two wires are shorting or if somehting is shorting against the body, then with the igntion off, there should be continuity of that particular wire? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
