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The definitive VR6 cooling guide

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I'm pretty sure my stage 3 fan is coming on when stage 2 is supposed to...is that a fail safe for when something is broken in stage 2?

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Anyone? Just thinking about ordering a new fan control unit to try and fix this problem but not sure if it's the right part to replace at this stage.

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Don't think stage 3 can come on that way, it's run off a different circuit. However, it's really stinking hot the last few days, mine was running the stupid fast fans the other day when stuck in traffic on and off..

I thought the car was going to fall in half, you can actually feel the fans torque spinning up against the weight of the car ..

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I'm pretty sure my stage 3 fan is coming on when stage 2 is supposed to...is that a fail safe for when something is broken in stage 2?

 

Fan 1 - Rad Switch - direct to battery - ~100 deg switch on.

Fan 2 - Rad Switch - Via fan control unit - ~110 deg switch on.

Fan 3 - Black sender in stat housing - ~120 deg switch on.

Yellow temp sender - After run pump activation (and dash temp gauge)

 

All fan speeds and the after run pump are controlled by the fan controller box.

 

If you want to see what speed 3 is like, bridge the black sender plug with the ignition on. Speeds 1 and 2 are a lot slower / quieter!

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Thanks chaps. Speed 3 is definitely coming on at 110. I did recently bridge the connectors to make sure that 2 and 3 both work (and they do).

 

I'm starting to question if I'm looking for a problem that doesn't exist?!

 

Perhaps I'll get vagcom on and make sure the temp readings are correct at the dash.

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Finally, i'm please to report that my VR runs at what I consider a healthy oil temp! (100 to 108 max, even when driven very hard on the autobahn, dropping to sub 100 degrees at "normal" speeds)

 

...do you want to know the final magic ingredient, after both fans, caustic flush, water wetter, new stat, housing, 3 stat housing sensors, rad sensor, fan control box, new spark plugs, fully synthetic oil, a reliable set of clocks (all of which helped or made a tangible difference)?

 

a late 3 slat grill with all sections open to increase air flow. My car was sold to me with a grill only open on the bottom section. After seeing a VR in the alps that had obviously just done a heavy climb and where the owner had taken the grill off, I was inspired!

 

seriously folks, if the revelations about trying alternative clocks and fitting quality sparks and oil were not enough, this simple grill fix has been the icing on the cake!

 

that is all. I hope someone benefits from this wee insight, however obvious it may seem in hindsight :)

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Yuk, just got off the phone to my local stealer! Current prices for some parts (ex VAT):

 

Fan switch - 24.85

Crack pipe - 20.88

Crack pipe seals - 2.42 (each)

Thermostat - 22.91

Housing - 31.03

Housing seals (x3) - 3.87, 2.42, 3.36

Sensor seals - 1.20

 

The three sensors (yellow, blue, black) were between 25 and 35 each so I didn't even write the prices down!!

 

---------- Post added at 12:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:52 PM ----------

 

Loads of Corrado part numbers return T4 transporter 2.8 parts on VW heritage, if the part number is the same, the part is the same isn't it?

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Keep an eye on ebay fella every now and then genuine parts appear for considerably less than dealer prices eg got a thermostat housing for £10 delivered

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

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Yeah, I should have been doing that for the last few months. The time has come and I need the parts now :(

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I bought one of these kits, still havent got around to fitting it though..

The thermostat looks a bit naff, bought a proper one from VW and the real one looks better quality

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Remember you can get VR6 Galaxy bits from Ford. (or you used to - I bought some a few years ago when renewing cooling system.)

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Does anybody know what would cause my auxillary water pump to run, but never turn off until either i pull the fuse in the FCM or the battery runs dead?

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Question. In my comment above I pointed out that my VR's stage 3 fans have been coming on periodically when stuck in traffic over the last few months. This is weird because in seven years of ownership they NEVER came on at all. I now know that the heater matrix has gone .. so my question is this: how does a failed heater matrix translate into a coolant fan problem?

The temperature gauge on the dash rarely goes high, and I've check hoses etc under the bonnet and all hoses are hot, the radiator is hot, there's no obvious pressure build-up and I'm not losing fluid, but the slow speed fans simply never come on any more, so either there's circulation problems such that the sensor in the rad never sees the real engine temperature, or totally by coincidence the sensor in the rad has failed (or, I suppose, it's fuse..?).

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What about the yellow temp sensor on the thermo housing when was that last changed? My brothers fans were always coming on at stage 3 yellow temp sensor change (for the now brown one) and all is well

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It's never been changed, and I've not checked it out yet, but it's weird that it goes at the same time as the heater matrix, no?

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So, turns out there was a coincidence, but it wasn't the coincidence I was expecting.

The garage had to do some work including replacing a length of the "blue exciter wire" to get the car to charge properly last year when it was in for a service. Since that time the mid-speed fans have never come on .. turns out that's because they didn't quite get the fan thermostat connector plugged in right. I took it off today, checked all the lines for output voltages and everything looked good. I bridged the contacts and the fans came on with both speeds just fine .. so I plugged it back in, firmly, and it all works again.

I still need to swap the heater matrix of course ...

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this weekend i opened up the bonnet to notice my expansion tank empty, filled it back up, drove to work, got the coolant warning light on the way back home , filled up the bottle again, drove to work in the morning opened up the bonnet to check the coolant level and i'd lost half a bottles worth over 20 miles.

 

i've got a small amount of mayo under the oil cap , should i expect the worse?

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this weekend i opened up the bonnet to notice my expansion tank empty, filled it back up, drove to work, got the coolant warning light on the way back home , filled up the bottle again, drove to work in the morning opened up the bonnet to check the coolant level and i'd lost half a bottles worth over 20 miles.

 

i've got a small amount of mayo under the oil cap , should i expect the worse?

 

no you shouldnt expect the worse, is there mayo on the dipstick? is the engine over heating? mayo on the oil cap is common with cars that dont see long journeys

{google it, this actualy has a specific name }, its basicly moisture and oil mixed together, with cars that run on longer journeys this moisture gets burnt off with the engine heat , if your cars over heating and theres mayo on the dipstick then maybe suspect the worse but then again that could be oil cooler failure

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well you've definitely got a water leak, it doesn't mean its a head gasket as above, although it can be an indicator. whilst we're having these cool mornings you could start the car early and check for steam around the radiator and water pipework.

 

expecting the worse would be a heater matrix as thats a dash out job, is it getting misty inside...have you checked the footwell carpets are both dry?

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thanks for the replies, checked the oil cap this morning after refilling the bottle and a spirited drive to work, no sign of Mayo but i had lost half a bottles worth of coolant again.

 

Car doesnt over heat, no misting up inside.

 

Given your advice. I'll do some investigation over the weekend.

 

Check dipstick for mayo.

Check for wet car parts inside.

Check for leaks around the pipes in the engine bay.

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well doesnt sound to bad then, check for leaks around the water pump too, also the more you use fresh water the more corrosion the fresh water will do to metal parts, wont do the heater matrix any good, try useing a sheet of card board and slide that under the engine bay to help identify leaks dripping, maybe even jack the front up and have a look from under at the front,

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Update: I recalled on Friday that all this lot started after I replaced the blown aux pump fuse So I took this fuse back out have done at least 100 miles since and no loss of coolant. So I'm not sure currently if the leak is at the pump or one of the pipes leading off it but its all good for now.

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