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Heater Matrix Replacement... while I'm there...

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Hi all,

 

At some point soon when the dryer warmer weather appears I'm going to change my heater matrix. Loads of info and instructions for that so it's all good. What I'd like opinions / advice on is while I have the dash out, is there anything else that's likely to need replacing? Any mods worth doing?

 

So far I'm thinking...

 

Heater Matrix - Veleo?

Heater Blower Motor - Will this need doing? I mean its working ok now but assuming its the original unit is it worth replacing it?

Ignition Switch

Is there any foam stuff that's worth doing? Insulation and/or sound proofing stuff. My blowers currently blow out all sorts of foam stuff at the moment so I assume something has perished!

 

Any idea, thought welcome... regardless of cost... I can work out what I can afford / prioritize when I have some thoughts from people who've done this.

 

Cheers

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Hi all,

 

At some point soon when the dryer warmer weather appears I'm going to change my heater matrix. Loads of info and instructions for that so it's all good. What I'd like opinions / advice on is while I have the dash out, is there anything else that's likely to need replacing? Any mods worth doing?

 

So far I'm thinking...

 

Heater Matrix - Veleo?

Heater Blower Motor - Will this need doing? I mean its working ok now but assuming its the original unit is it worth replacing it?

Ignition Switch

Is there any foam stuff that's worth doing? Insulation and/or sound proofing stuff. My blowers currently blow out all sorts of foam stuff at the moment so I assume something has perished!

 

Any idea, thought welcome... regardless of cost... I can work out what I can afford / prioritize when I have some thoughts from people who've done this.

 

Cheers

1. Take the dash off. Do it slowly, methodically, dont force stuff without thinking. There are lots of little tabs that get broken due to haste. Careful about the loom sections, make sure you photo and note how they were routed. Careful with your alarm system....When you remove the heater controls, label and mark the bowden cables. This is important. Note exactly where each screw came from - it will save you loads of grief later. A simple way is to do a drawing of the dash on an A4 sheet, and then pin the drawing with the screws as you take them off. Anal- no, it will prevent rattles later.

2. Dismantle the air exchange unit, wash the plastics clean and inspect all the gaskets, bowden cables. Literally disinfect all the airways until squeaky clean. Then look up the wiki on this forum and replace the air intake gasket and fit a pollen filter. You wont regret doing any of this.

3. Silicon grease all the bowden cables and if still sticking, replace them. Check all the cogs and the ease of their movement on the flaps. Replace if necessary, inc the foam gaskets on the doors if needed.

4. Pop out the blower motor and inspect it. It is easy to remove, but dont force it, it just takes brains. Then inspect. If the brushes are worn right down and/or the commutator is heavily scored you can find new brushes on ebay. If the commutator needs sorting, find someone to put the motor on a lathe and skim down the commutator until it is smooth, clean, balanced. A clean commutator and brushes will last you at least 60,000 miles. If you cant fix the commutator then source a new motor intact. Dont bother getting a second hand one.

5. Check the blower switch assembly. Look to see if the plug into the control unit is cooked, charred, etc. If it is, as carefully as possible, clean the contacts with cillit bang, soaked overnight. Then use silicon dielectric grease over the contacts when you refit. This will stop further charring. If the rotor contacts are cooked (you can pull off the rotary controls), then consider replacing the control. Whether or not you do, stick dielectric grease on the tracks - this will stop once and for all the arcing that breaks these down.

6. May be worth looking for signs of water ingres whilst it is all off. The ABS brain is a common place where it drips down, the passenger carpet, etc. Trace it back and fix it before refitting the dash.

7. Put it all back carefully, refit slowly, making sure that everything is working as it should, as you put layer by layer back. Grab a pack of zip ties- they will come in useful. When refitting the side panels by the central tunnel, you might have problems getting the screws to find their mating point on the steel plate. I use a long thin zip tie, thread it through, cut the head off, and then follow the tie with the screw: works every time.

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Great post Bruno! :salute:

 

Nothing happens for me when I turn the heater on, I think either the blower motor is gone or there's a switch/electrical problem. That's great food for thought :)

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I did this last year, there's no need to remove dash, just glove box, central console and a few other bits of trim. Buy matrix from VW.

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I did this last year, there's no need to remove dash, just glove box, central console and a few other bits of trim. Buy matrix from VW.

 

i have always wondered why folk seem so keen to remove the whole dash ( its the most complecated part of the car )

 

ok understand its more difficult ( you have to twist your hand/tools into the gaps ) but you dont disturb looms or have the ball ache of refitting.

 

good luck.

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i have always wondered why folk seem so keen to remove the whole dash ( its the most complecated part of the car )

 

ok understand its more difficult ( you have to twist your hand/tools into the gaps ) but you dont disturb looms or have the ball ache of refitting.

 

good luck.

 

...hmm .... does that mean I can replace my screen-vent bowden cable without having to take out the whol dash?

 

If so, can anyone tell me which screws I need to get to to get to the other end of the bowden cable?

 

cheers

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Great post Bruno! :salute:

 

Nothing happens for me when I turn the heater on, I think either the blower motor is gone or there's a switch/electrical problem. That's great food for thought :)

Sort that out in reverse order of common logic, ie:

1. Pull the blower out and check it. If it runs, then the chances are that the fuse has gone.

2. If thats OK then the painful part starts. Pull out the controls and switch and find out where the power failed.

3. The fact that you said it doesnt work - I assumed it didnt on all four speeds. If it works on speed 4, then the thermistor on your speed control resistor pack has gone. Its a common fault. Go to maplins and get the thermistor, then have fun replacing it. Or you can buy another one from the stealers

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hi!is there any chance to replace my heater matrix without taking the dash off?i really don't wanna touch the electrical wires.thanks

I know two people who claim it can be done. I dont believe them. There's too much you need to check at the same time that also goes wrong. Its not just the exchange unit, its the bowden cables, etc - all of these are worth sorting if you take the time and want not to bother with nonsense in months to come. Remember - its an old car.

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i have always wondered why folk seem so keen to remove the whole dash ( its the most complecated part of the car )

 

ok understand its more difficult ( you have to twist your hand/tools into the gaps ) but you dont disturb looms or have the ball ache of refitting.

 

good luck.

 

...hmm .... does that mean I can replace my screen-vent bowden cable without having to take out the whol dash?

 

If so, can anyone tell me which screws I need to get to to get to the other end of the bowden cable?

 

cheers

 

 

just take the dash out, took my first corrado dash out afew weeks ago, took about an hour n a half first try, and its not the ball ache people seem to say it is, yes its awkward and fiddly but pretty straight forward and makes everything a whole lot easier..

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