MattWilde 10 Posted January 19, 2011 Hi everyone, I've had a search but to no avail. I'm guessing the problem revolves around a dodgy earth connection but I'm not sure where to start looking. When I put the rear heated screen switch on the light in the actual switch that indicates that it is in use flickers. When this is happening the fog light switch indicator light flickers too. The fog light switch also flickers when I put the car in reverse, preventing the reverse lights from working. The fog lights work when the fog light switch is activated, but they are not on when the light in the switch is flickering when the switch is off but the rear screen switch is on, and the rear screen works, it just takes ages as I guess it's not working when the switch lights are flickering. Phew! Ask as many questions as you need to as that probably doesn't make much sense! Thanks in advance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattWilde 10 Posted February 20, 2011 Another bump just incase some one new reads it before I send her off to the autoelectricians Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 20, 2011 Have you checked all the bulbs Matt? - was just thinking this sort of things might happen if you have a cracked fog light which is full of water... could maybe unplug lights to isolate / test Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattWilde 10 Posted March 2, 2011 Finally got it fixed (i think!). Thanks for the suggestion Supercharged, I had thought of that and been through all the bulbs, fuses and any wire I could see after taking bits of dash apart and the cover of the boot hatch, but all looked fine. The problem? The weather seal between the hatch and the chassis was in a poor state where the lock is situated and it has always been on my to do list. I finally got one from 8vmatt and fitted it last night. The old rubber was so worn that when you pressed the button to release the boot there was no resistance in the button and no indication that it had done anything except you could now open the boot. With the new seal in place the button has a resistance and a definite 'pop' when pressed. With this extra pressure on the lock the electrical problem has been fixed, I'm guessing the earth or another part of the circuit runs through the lock and now the two halves are in contact all the electrical parts of the hatch work. Saved me a bill from the auto-electricans. Hope this helps anyone else that gets some odd happenings! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
