Fatmat Soundproofing?

[UseOnceDestroy 0]

Been looking at soundproofing possibilities, searched the forum and from what I could find, no one has posted any experiences with Fatmat.

 

I've been quite impressed with what I've read and its cheaper than Dynamat.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-sq-ft-FATMAT-Xtreme-Sound-Deadening-Proofing-UK-/300593882464?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item45fccaa560#ht_2038wt_1139

 

Any experiences or opinions out there that could help me out?

 

I'm planning on doing the whole car, I have already removed everything from the front seats back. Gonna get the dash out too so I'm gonna be needing ALOT of it. Wanna achieve the best value for money.

 

Cheers

[OllieVR6 0]

I want to do some sound proofing, but from what I've read, doing the whole car is pointless. I think Kev did his whole car at some point and has since removed most if not all of it.

 

I think best value for money, whatever the product, is fitting the right size/shape piece to the right place. I think if you were running one of those audiophile show cars then you might want to do the whole car but I'm guessing you just want it to sound good whilst your booting about?

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah guilty as charged! At the time I thought it was quieter but it was done as part of a big ICE project, so of course the stereo being louder makes the car quieter by default :lol:

 

I did go a bit over the top and did the roof panel as well. It was certainly a neat party trick with the doors and roof sounding like concrete when tapped, but the interior noise reduction was very minimal for the effort involved tbh.

 

As Ollie says, it's still worth doing as part of a stereo project as speakers always prefer a solid base and an acoustically inert interior to work from, but if doing it solely to reduce road and exhaust drone, seriously..... I wouldn't bother.

 

I did buy a load of black egg box foam from B&Q as it was going cheap which may work better than bitumen matting (it's certainly a lot lighter!!). The plan was to line the boot with it to absorb the exhaust droning but I never got round to it. When it's back on the road again I'll try it and report back though.

 

Under the rear seats and behind the rear door cards are quite large, flat panels mind, so if you want stick some matting down, do those areas. The rest of the car is actually pretty well sound proofed to be fair.

[UseOnceDestroy 0]

Pointless in which respect?

 

I've decided to focus my attention on comfort. I'm not overly fussed about the extra weight the soundproofing will add, although 'they' say that this Fatmat is actually a hell of a lot lighter than other brands. I just want to eliminate as much road noise, rattles shakes and knocks as possible.

 

---------- Post added at 04:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:53 PM ----------

 

ah FishWick... ya got in there before I replied!

 

Cheers for ya advice mate, probably saved me a lot of time and money!

[Kevin Bacon 5]

No worries. I think sound absorbtion rather than deflection (by making panels more rigid with fat mat stuff) works better for what you want to achieve. Dynamat stuff was pretty much invented to stop large steel panels (think huge GM panel vans filled with 18" subs) vibrating in ICE installs. OEs by comparison use a very small sheet of bitument, which usually does the job.

 

Have you lifted your carpet and see what's under there?! It's got bitumen sheets, sandbags and about an inch of underlay :D

[fla 9]

to reduce road noise you dont really need to use dynamat and all that kind of panel-vibration damper. Perhaps just a few squares in the middle of each large steel panel. What you need to do is get some mass loaded vinyl and some closed cell foam. Lay the foam down covering the whole of the floor area and under the seats etc, then lay the MLV on top. I've still got to do mine, but in a nutshell thats it. However, if you are into your SQL and want to reduce panel vibration, then it might pay to use loads of the Damplifier stuff. I've still got a boxfull in the garage...