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seanl82

Seanl82's ringer Storm

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Thanks Daren. I'm gonna phone VW tomorrow as I want a couple of other bits anyway but if I get no luck, I'll give you a bell. Thanks for the offer mate, much appreciated! :thumbleft:

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I bought a new expansion tank from vw a couple of years back fitted it and would constantly flash on the dash. Swapped for another new expansion tank from vw and its been fine since. Only thing i can put it down to is a dodgy batch of level sensors as ive heard a couple of people having the same problem.

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Yeah someone else bought one at around the same time and that was faulty too Jon. Problem is, they're obsolete now! I've still got the old one so I may be able to try that, but shorting the plug that attaches to the back of the expansion tank made no difference so not 100% it is that.

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Had a quick hour on the car earlier. I'd wanted to swap my VT Gearbox mount back to standard for a while.

Thought it was transmitting a bit of noise through to the cabin, but after looking at it, I'm not sure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC_0060_zpshyxumde6.jpg

 

 

 

The rubber has come away from the central metal shaft. Makes sense really, as when it was on the RR at Stealth last year I thought the engine was moving more than expected, and it was also an advisory on the MOT last year in being loose but secure. Wasn't an advisory this year though........

 

Oh well, just means I can't flog it on. :rolleyes:

 

Oh, and ordered a replacement crack pipe plug with seal, and rear brake bias valve spring from VW. Collecting them Wednesday.

Edited by seanl82

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Thanks Sean!

 

Had a few more hours on the car today and I've concluded it's definitely the expansion tank causing the low level light to flash.

I ran the car up to temp with a spare set of clocks, which produced exactly the same problem.

 

 

DSC_0061_zpsdljsipth.jpg

 

 

 

Wish my mileage was this low really!

 

Anyway, as with the original clocks, if you turn off the ignition then restart the car, the warning won't come back.

I had to let the engine cool a fair bit for each process, as it only happens when the water is at 90, and oil is mid 80s.

If the light is flashing, it won't reset itself even when the plug is bridged. If I run it up from cool with it bridged though, it doesn't come on. When the bridge is removed it takes about 20 seconds or so before the light starts flashing again.

I'll have a bit more time on it next week so I'll check the continuity and resistance of the sender pins inside to see if they differ from the original, and see if it's possible to get some sort of proper fix.

 

I've ordered some beige van lining carpet to re-cover the parcel shelf too. Hopefully the colour is OK, or I'll have to try and re-colour it too.

Getting there slowly!

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Picked up the couple of small bits from VW today. New crack pipe plug with seal, and rear bias Vv spring and bushes.

 

 

DSC_0063_zps6ya3ob3v.jpg

 

 

As mentioned previously, I'm accumulating parts in preparation for the underside next winter (been saying I'll do it for about 2 years now!), and the bias valve spring are one of those obscure parts that are likely to become obsolete before long, so thought it prudent to get it whilst I still can and its pretty cheap as well.

 

I also received the van lining fabric and glue today for my parcel shelf.

 

 

 

 

 

Et voila!

 

 

 

 

 

DSC_0064_zpsgxnkzvb5.jpg

 

 

 

 

Colour is obviously pretty off, but it was only £15.99 delivered including the glue so I thought I'd give it a try and I'm glad I did.

 

If you have been searching for what to use to re-cover the parcel shelf, read on. Being beige, they're very hard to come by second hand and they have been discontinued from VW. The only real option I had was to buy a second hand shelf in grey (as they're the cheapest), and re-cover it.

The van lining fabric is absolutely perfect for anyone thinking of doing this. Its 4 way stretch stuff so flexible enough to mould into the corners without bunching up and causing lumps. The pile is a little more fluffy, but thats likely to do with the fact the original is 21 years old now.

If you can find a supplier relatively local, I'd suggest either going into a supplier with your shelf, or cutting off a bit from the rear bit closest the seats where it overlaps, and seeing if you can get as close a match as possible. Another option is to send the cut-off to various places by post to see if they have something close enough you'd be happy with. This is what I'll be doing next as the experiment was successful. You'll need 1.1 x 0.7 metres of fabric, but most come off a roll that is usually 2M wide and you buy by the metre, so one is more than enough.

 

Anyway, thats one thing temporarily out of the way, tomorrow will see me fit the new coolant drain plug, and one which seems to be very common at the moment in that my windows and mirrors have decided to stop working. They are linked, as the passenger side window sw isn't working either, all the connectors behind the door card are in place (I had the door card off the other day and it definitely worked before), and changing the window control unit for a spare I have didn't make any difference.

I suspect it may be to do with the loom either at the door jam, or the connector at the fuse box if both the windows and mirrors are on the same loom, but I'll check the Bentley wiring diagrams later.

Will report back with what I find! :salute:

Edited by seanl82

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Thanks Sean!

 

Had a few more hours on the car today and I've concluded it's definitely the expansion tank causing the low level light to flash.

I ran the car up to temp with a spare set of clocks, which produced exactly the same problem.

 

 

DSC_0061_zpsdljsipth.jpg

 

 

 

Wish my mileage was this low really!

 

Anyway, as with the original clocks, if you turn off the ignition then restart the car, the warning won't come back.

I had to let the engine cool a fair bit for each process, as it only happens when the water is at 90, and oil is mid 80s.

If the light is flashing, it won't reset itself even when the plug is bridged. If I run it up from cool with it bridged though, it doesn't come on. When the bridge is removed it takes about 20 seconds or so before the light starts flashing again.

I'll have a bit more time on it next week so I'll check the continuity and resistance of the sender pins inside to see if they differ from the original, and see if it's possible to get some sort of proper fix.

 

I've ordered some beige van lining carpet to re-cover the parcel shelf too. Hopefully the colour is OK, or I'll have to try and re-colour it too.

Getting there slowly!

Mine did exactly the same, everytime i started from cold it would flash. If i turned the engine off straight away and restarted it would be fine. Plenty of patten copies available so theres options at least.

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Nice work on the parcel shelf Sean and good to see you got to the bottom of the coolant light troubles . I think I have failed on my underside refurb , I didn't buy that Spring , bum , that's the one part I didn't buy .

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Cheers Sean,

 

Just ordered one, thought these were only available over the pond!

 

Much appreciated - Paul

Edited by Design380

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Bonnet catch is removed as its very sticky, but I have another with a set of pins which I'm gonna ask Ian (GloucesterOx) if he can re-plate them next week.

 

Drop me a PM Sean when you're ready and I will happily get them cleaned up and re-zinc plated for you!

 

Ideal opportunity for a quick plug, but I have a spare set currently that I will bring along to the CCGB AGM on Sunday that I can fit there and then if anybody is interested?

 

Ian.

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Following on from the post on the previous page, I sorted my windows and mirrors today. Went the long way around, but it turned out to be a simple fuse! Fuse 14, which is for the interior lamps as it happens. No idea why it stopped them both working but obviously better than something to serious. Tested all the electrics and noticed the heated seats weren't working either. :rolleyes:

No click from the relays, so I pulled the rear card off, and tested voltage at the socket there. All good, so put the relays back in and they worked again. I like simple fixes like this! :o

 

Drained the coolant and fitted the new water pipe plug, and I'm now leak free.

 

I've got another week off in 2 weeks time, so I'll be giving it a good detail in preparation for the show season! :cool:

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Cheers Chris, long way around to find what was a simple fix, but I couldn't see it properly from either above or below, as I thought it may be the bottom rad hose. Crack pipe plug was easier to identify though and all is good now. :thumbleft:

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Car wouldn't start this morning. Pretty sure it's the ignition switch as it's been a bit temperamental, but I've got round it by lifting it slightly when turning. It was an aftermarket one from heritage I replaced about 500 mile ago too. Ordered a genuine one and picking up tomorrow. I also bought a replacement inlet mani yesterday too. Mine had previously been smoothed so I wanted to get one with the texture as original. It's been soda blasted too so should look nice! EBay bargains, gotta love em!

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Changed ignition switch, no change. :rolleyes:

Ecu relay is pinging away and battery is well charged - even tried jump leads from the missus's with no change. Got 12v switched live to the starter motor, so it's obviously the replacement mk4 Golf (second hand) starter motor. I still have the original so I'll chuck that on on Friday, fingers crossed it cures the problem as I'm out of ideas!

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Strange , when you said if you wiggle the key and it starts that's always points to ignition switch mate .

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Yeah those were the symptoms I had before, but now the starter won't even turn over so assumed that was the cause. Doesn't take long to swap over though and have Friday afternoon off before going to Bristol for the weekend, so I'll give that a go.

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Just done starter motor, pulled the mk4 Golf one out and the copper braid had snapped. Old one back in and fired straight up. I'll try to repair the mk4 one and get it back in eventually, but at least it's running nicely again.

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Prepped the car yesterday ready for a quick pass with the rotary today. All went well and after a quick rinse and dry first thing this morning I cracked on. Didn't need much as there were only a few very slight swirls from washing, but wanted to do it since the respray anyway. 3M Ultrafina on a 3M blue pad and the paint was looking back to its best again. Went over it twice with panel wipe to remove the polishing oils, a quick rinse and dry again then onto the Carpro CquartzUk which I've had a while.

I've used Gtechniq C1 in the past and thought it was fantastic. This ones a little cheaper and pretty much the same thing hence the reason for trying it this time.

Unfortunately I came into a bit of a problem. I don't know whether it was because of the heat or I applied it a little too thick, but it just wouldn't buff off. It seemed a little sticky and now just looks hazy, and reading up online suggests quite a few have encountered this.

Carpro suggest a wipe over with the reload which is supposed to be applied an hour afterward (and is included in the kit), so tried this to no avail. The next step is to give it a wipe over with a finishing polish just back and forth, to remove a top layer and buff again.

Hopefully it won't have hardened too much by tomorrow because I only finished about an hour ago and I'm absolutely shattered!

If is has hardened too much, the only way to get it off is to polish it off again, and I really don't want to have to do that.

If it doesn't work, I'll just get use the collinite that I've been using for the past couple of years. Should have just stayed with the tried, trusted and go to wax! :rolleyes:

I'll use the Dlux for the plastic tomorrow as I've used it before and its good stuff.

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