Bullfinch 0 Posted October 6, 2013 As title suggests is there anything I can check or fix? I thought the warm air was due to high external summer temps but now it's cooled down and with the heater setting turned all the way round to the blue (7 o'clock) and on fan speed 1 it still gets warm. Heater matrix was only replaced two year's ago. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dumptyboy 0 Posted October 6, 2013 Are the heater controls functioning correctly? What im trying to say is are the controls moving from hot to cold regardless of what the controls say? Does that make sense? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bullfinch 0 Posted October 6, 2013 Are the heater controls functioning correctly? What im trying to say is are the controls moving from hot to cold regardless of what the controls say? Does that make sense? Yes if I turn the dial clockwise it gets very hot from about 9/10 o'clock setting Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dumptyboy 0 Posted October 6, 2013 What engine is it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bullfinch 0 Posted October 6, 2013 VR6 - I know it gets hot and I'm well used to the initial hot air when setting off if the engine is still warm but it just seems to carry on without reverting back to something more in keeping with the outside temp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davidwort 0 Posted October 6, 2013 (edited) Hot air flap gear may have jumped a tooth and isn't shutting off the flow of air through the matrix completely, need to remove the passenger under dash tray and look at the plastic gears on the bottom of the air distribution unit. have a look at this thread I started when fixing mine: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=53013 Edited October 6, 2013 by davidwort Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seanl82 23 Posted October 6, 2013 Probably the foam on the heater box flap has finally given up the ghost. The flap has foam around the seal, and over the flap itself. There are big holes in the flap so the warm air will just pass through them if the foam has rotted out. Have a look in my gallery, there are pics from when I did mine. I put reflective tape over the holes to stop it permanently. Be warned, its a ballache of a job, basically invloves removing the matrix again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sean_Jaymo 0 Posted October 6, 2013 I also have the same type of pictures in my thread showing how the old foam rots away with time. One of those things. It's also not unheard of for the flaps to jump a few teeth on their gears causing in them to remain slightly open when you wanted them shut. Either way, you need to basically remove the dash (really not hard and worse than it sounds!) to get the parts you need. If one of the things mentioned above is gone, then chances Re that the other is also not right! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bullfinch 0 Posted October 7, 2013 Many thanks for the advice. I have been getting a lot of foam bits coming through the blowers so it does all point to that giving up the ghost. Now to find the time to go exploring:( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted October 7, 2013 Yep - just to echo the above comments. When you set the heater to cold, coolant isn't stopped from entering the heater matrix - a plastic flap simply blocks the air being pulled in from the air intake, from being passed through the matrix. So chances are the plastic flap isn't sealing correctly - either because it's jumped a tooth or two, or the sealing foam gaskets are toast. The only way to tackle it is going to be taking the whole heater box out... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites