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pfnsht

My Candy White VR6

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Hey all,

 

Owned the car since the beginning of 2018 and am finally getting around to starting my thread to showcase pictures jobs done to the car.

 

Background on the car:

 

1995 VR6

Purchased with 149k with full service history (serviced every year)

Completely standard example

It has had a blow-over respray at some point in its original colour - Candy White. Looks nice from a distance but not perfect around deals.

Everything worked* on purchase

 

The car as it stands today @ 151k:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95212[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95213[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95214[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95215[/ATTACH]

 

Current list of jobs:

 

- Sunroof no longer works and the replacement I put in at a cost of £170 snapped within a week.

 

- Noticed some rust on the A Pillar behind internal trim. Not visable on the ouside and probably caused due the windscreen trim being cracked directly above the rust patch.

 

- ABS light on occasionally. Says it's the Brake Pedal Sensor (mostly).

 

- Suspension wants refreshing

 

- Leather or Recaro's (don't we all).

 

- I want to preserve the underside with underseal.

 

More to follow on the jobs done this year...

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Jobs completed in 2018

 

Mechancials:

 

1. Full Service

2. ABS front sensor replacement

3. Thermostat, 3 sensors in housing plus rad fan switch.

4. Fuel Pressure Regulator

5. Coil Pack & HT Leads replaced

6. Handbrake adjusted

7. 2 new tyres

 

Bodywork:

 

1. 10p rust patch on sunroof fixed and lid resprayed

2. New boot lid fitted and resprayed

3. Both sills and the top treated for rust and repainted

4. All arches treated and protected as rust was starting to creep in.

5. Small scabs forming on leading edge of bonnet sorted

6. Rear towing eye treated for rust and resprayed.

6. Wheels refurbished

 

Picture from body shop

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95216[/ATTACH]

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I do have a set of Bilstein B12's purchased in Apr plus I bought associated rubber bits and bolts and top mounts to refresh suspension when fitted.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95217[/ATTACH]

 

However the suspension kit may be sold this weekend as I need the funds to repair the rust and may as well protect the underside at the same time. I also need to pool some money to set aside any mechanical work, such as the chains, that might be needed in the future. Mr sensible is boring.

 

If I sell I will just replace my leaking front shocks with some Sachs Advantage shocks instead and do the rears another day. If the sale falls through then I'll just keep them and do a bit of DIY on the rusty bits to keep anything at bay (none of the rust can be seen fortunately).

 

Interestingly having written down everything I have done this year doesn't seem nearly as much as it feels I have done and spent this year!

Edited by pfnsht

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I've also got a spare ABS pump as I have seen that fault code twice. Usually when the car hasn't been used for a bit but it doesn't return.

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Sunroof - having spent £170 on a replacement corrado roof that snapped within a week I've now bought a replacement Mk3 Golf roof with a clear moonroof for £35.

 

I don't have a garage currently and haven't got round to fitting it. I'm concerned the glass panel will have a different shape to the Corrado roofline so the back up plan will be to find a Passat B4 moonroof instead, if I can find one.

 

The car also has no headlining at the moment whilst I wait to start this job. The headlining had completely sagged anyway and I am planning on re-trimming it.

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The curvature on the MK3 Golf roof is completely wrong, get another Moonroof or just use your white metal one.

 

Thanks, yeah few options available assuming I can source a passat roof for reasonable money or I can make up a working Corrado roof from parts I have.

 

I have 3 mechs so could build up a working version - one has a broken wheel on the cast alloy hammer thing, the other (installed in the car) has snapped the alloy hammer thing and the mk3 is sitting in the shed. Also have 3 motors as each mech has a different motor assembly!

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the glass from an IBIZA 1 is the one which fits best, better than the b4 one. I would have one, if you want to pick it up in Germany :-)

 

Regards

 

Gunther

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Passat B4 moonroof sourced (thanks Stuart) but yet to find a dry day to fit.

 

Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up.

 

There were two hard bits to this job:

 

1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.

2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.

 

The procedure:

 

1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.

2. Remove bits from engine bay to gain good access to remove the circlip. You'll need a mirror so you can see what you're doing to get it off. I have a set of hook and picks that I used a couple of to get it off.

3. Sensor removed, make sure you have the o-ring too and don't lose the circlip either!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95491[/ATTACH]

4. Sensor disassembled. I took it apart by picking out the factory sealant and using an electricians screwdriver to pry it apart, without putting too much strain on the outer casing. It was a fiddly job and took a while to free it apart.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95493[/ATTACH]

5. I've never soldered before. First I cleaned up old solder from the joints by heating it up with the iron and using the solder vacuum sucker thing the extract it. I then re-soldered the circuit board to the points.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95495[/ATTACH]

6. I then losely put it back together and tested it using my multi meter. I haven't used this before either but googled. I looked for the symbol ".)))" which I googled as meaning continuity. I then hooked the red and black testers to the points on the sensor. I got a reading between 250 to 850 as I slid the plunger thing in and out.

7. I then got some clear sealant from the shed and put it back together.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95497[/ATTACH]

 

I'm waiting 24 hours for it to dry and should be able to re-fit it on Wednesday. Fingers crossed this fixes my issue.

 

Next jobs booked are full under carriage steam clean and re-seal with Dinitrol and the Bilstein B12 is being fitted at the same time. Hopefully will get some pictures.

Edited by pfnsht

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Jobs done over the last week:

 

Sunroof

 

New Sunroof mech fitted along with Stuart's B4 moonroof. I cleaned and serviced the mech with lube as much as I could without disassembly. The moonroof is sitting a touch too low at the back so need to fettle a bit more, at the moment it is pushed to the top of the adjusters though so need to figure out how to get the whole thing higher. Let me know any tips.

 

ABS

 

ABS sensor brake position sensor fitted - fault cleared - all good.

 

Sill have a semi intermittent ABS fault with the pump but have a spare to fit at some point. Probably get my mechanic to do it as I haven't bled brakes before.

 

Oil Leak

 

Sourced oil leak - easy one - low pressure (0.25bar) oil sensor (PN 028 919 081 D). Also replacing high pressure sensor (1.4bar) next to it (PN 068 919 081 D) as only a few quid.

 

These are easy to change with an extension and joint on your socket wrench. You'll need a deep 24mm socket. Don't forget to push a metal washer on too (my meyle from vwheritage sensors came with new ones).

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95539[/ATTACH]

 

Suspension

 

Saturday the car goes in for rust treatment and undersealing with Dinitrol. I haven't got much rust under there but the factory underseal is flaking away and it's only a matter of time before I do get rust. Bilstein B12 suspension will also be fitted now I have received replacement rear springs from Eibach.

 

For those interested - there is an issue with the rear springs supplied with the B12 kit. They sit too low at the rear, basically on the bump stops. I wanted my drop to be more consistent with the front so had them send me out (via Larkspeed who have been very helpful) new rears.

 

Incorrect rear PN EW 851 3002 HA

 

Correct rear PN 850 2002 HA

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95541[/ATTACH]

Edited by pfnsht

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Passat B4 moonroof sourced (thanks Stuart) but yet to find a dry day to fit.

 

Today I have taken out my brake position sensor as I was getting a consistent fault with my code reader. These sensors are obsolete now and they usually fail because the solder dries up on the points mated to the circuit board. Sure enough mine had dried up.

 

There were two hard bits to this job:

 

1. Getting the circlip off the sensor so I could remove it from the car. You'll need a mirror if it's positioned like mine.

2. Taking the sensor apart without wrecking the outer casing.

 

The procedure:

 

1. Pump the brake pedal a few times to relieve the vacuum in the master cylinder.

2. Remove bits from engine bay to gain good access to remove the circlip. You'll need a mirror so you can see what you're doing to get it off. I have a set of hook and picks that I used a couple of to get it off.

3. Sensor removed, make sure you have the o-ring too and don't lose the circlip either!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95491[/ATTACH]

4. Sensor disassembled. I took it apart by picking out the factory sealant and using an electricians screwdriver to pry it apart, without putting too much strain on the outer casing. It was a fiddly job and took a while to free it apart.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95493[/ATTACH]

5. I've never soldered before. First I cleaned up old solder from the joints by heating it up with the iron and using the solder vacuum sucker thing the extract it. I then re-soldered the circuit board to the points.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95495[/ATTACH]

6. I then losely put it back together and tested it using my multi meter. I haven't used this before either but googled. I looked for the symbol ".)))" which I googled as meaning continuity. I then hooked the red and black testers to the points on the sensor. I got a reading between 250 to 850 as I slid the plunger thing in and out.

7. I then got some clear sealant from the shed and put it back together.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95497[/ATTACH]

 

I'm waiting 24 hours for it to dry and should be able to re-fit it on Wednesday. Fingers crossed this fixes my issue.

 

Next jobs booked are full under carriage steam clean and re-seal with Dinitrol and the Bilstein B12 is being fitted at the same time. Hopefully will get some pictures.

 

Great info here, thanks for documenting what you did. I'm sure it will help a few of us out

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No probs Hasan. Your thread and many others have been very helpful to me since I have joined! I need to get better at taking pictures as I work.

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Update - car undersealed with Dinitrol and any rust treated. Car wasn't that bad underneath but wanted this done to keep it sweet.

 

Bilstein B12 kit fitted (need better pics as my drive is a slope). I had new rubber bits and top mounts fitted too and a Hunter alignment following. The car is is completely different to drive and much more comfortable vs the old standard stuff which was pretty knackered to be fair.

 

All work done by CSK Automotive is Hoddesdon. They are a Land Rover specialist but work on other cars. Chris is a great bloke and is into the VAG scene - has a lovely wrapped Audi R8.

 

Before Pics

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95555[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95557[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95559[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95561[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95563[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95565[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95567[/ATTACH]

 

After

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95569[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95571[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95573[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95575[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95577[/ATTACH]

Edited by pfnsht

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Next job to do is to extract injectors and send them off for a refurb. The car is becoming difficult to start when warm - cranks and cranks.

 

So far to fault find I've - read codes (cam shaft sensor), replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, new FPR valve, new thermostat, new thermostat sensors, new rad fan switch (unrelated), new sparks, leads, coilpack (cracked), fuel pump relay and fuel filter. I'm left with fuel pump and injectors - feel free to chip in to help me solve!

 

I'm discounting fuel pump at this stage: it starts fine when cold (3/4 cranks) and there is fuel in the lines when it's warm. My theory is the injectors are leaking. When it's cold the car is expecting a rich mixture and anything that has leaked in has probably evaporated. When the car is warm fuel has leaked into the cylinders and there's more fuel in there than the car expects so the fuel/air ratio is off and it's also expecting a leaner warm engine mixture. It will start when warm but takes 8-10 cranks and it slowly splutters into life.

 

Other symptoms are an irregular slight rough idle and bit of a sooty tail pipe pointing to a rich mixture (injectors out of control maybe!).

 

Found a chap that will service and clean them for about 85quid. Just need to find the time to get them out. Would rather buy some new ones but can't find any for sale at reasonable cost.

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It’s not a problem you have on your own where it takes a lot of cranking when warm. There is a fix on here to do with a piece of hose and a non return valve on top of the pump. Does it help if you turn the ignition on give a sec turn it off then try to start it.

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Intrigued with the fix. I'll search it out. Need to understand what's going on. The issue has got worse since I ran some injector cleaner through the fuel but that could be in my head as it's always done it!

 

Edit - read a few threads. Don't understand how the one way valve can fix the issue but for the sake of a few quid and some pipe it's worth fitting. Would have thought the starting issue would be present on both hot and cold but can't find info on whether the pump works harder when cold to shove more fuel through.

 

I wonder if it's worth replacing the fuel cap as well. Mine is original and I'm guessing doesn't seal as well so maybe it helps draw fuel back to the tank.

Edited by pfnsht

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I'm away at the moment but when im back send me your address and ill post out a check valve for the fuel tank to you if you're stuck. I've got a couple spare.

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Thanks Fla... but I’ve been super efficient and bought all the bits last night! Thank you for the offer tho.

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Swapped fuel relay and installed a one way valve on the fuel line near pump.

 

Yet to see if it improves my hot start issue as it got dark and my headlight switch broke. Maybe I should have got something newer!!

 

My idle is still a bit rough - feel vibration in the cabin but no bouncing on tacho. Not sure what the issue is, hopefully injectors or pump (it’s original) rather than something mechanical .... it’s not using oil or water or being smokey.

Edited by pfnsht

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The one way valve seems to have done the trick on hot starting... further testing needed. Can't understand why though. Anyone know whether the ECU is configured to force more fuel through when cold vs hot?

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Happy new year to all.

 

No major updates except I’ve been using the car more now since the hot start issue has been resolved (fingers crossed) with the one way valve on the fuel line. Idle has improved with use too, not that it was particularly bad; I used to get a minor vibration on idle but it’s mostly cleared up now. I’ll probably strip down and clean up the ISV and throttle body at some point if it gets worse as it doesn’t look like it’s been off the car (still has the original VW style hose clips).

 

I’ve now done a fair few miles on the Bilstein B12 kit now. Overall it’s improved the drive and aesthetics of the car. I normally drive pretty gently but when driven at higher speeds with harder acceleration body and wheel control is improved and the car feels planted and still very predictable. Generally I’ve found:

-it’s more planted at higher a-road/motorway speeds

-less of a boat on acceleration and deceleration (could have been my worn front shocks causing that)

-the shocks have not noticeably bottomed out, even with 2 adults, kids and a boot load of stuff. The ride feels firm but refined but has highlighted cabin rattles not there previously! My wife commented it was much more comfortable than a Mk2 Seat Leon FR we used to own years ago (we got rid of it as she hated the ride).

-I have been used to driving cars with independent rear suspension for last 6+ years so the rear feels more agricultural and the firmed up suspension has highlighted it more so to me. Perhaps new rear beam bushes would improve matters back there – again they’re original.

-the ride at lower speeds on rough road surfaces, such as a rutted country lanes is less comfortable, but driving faster seems to smooth things out. On reading around that seems to be a general comment with Bilstein B6/B8 shocks.

 

Another plus since using it more is that the ABS pump hasn’t been causing the ABS light to come on. It just wants to be used I guess! I do have another pump to go in but want to send it off to BBA Reman for a refurb first and save up for a general brake refresh at the same time, maybe go for Mk4 rear callipers and larger fronts although I haven’t found the existing brakes lacking to be honest with my driving style.

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Steering wheel and gear know refurbed with a leather repair kit:

 

Before:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95996[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]95999[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96002[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96005[/ATTACH]

 

After

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96011[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96014[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96017[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96020[/ATTACH]

 

Happy with that - cracks and discolorations gone. The gear knob pic is from the side that had all the wear.

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