Jump to content
corradlo

Another Oil Sensor Thread!

Recommended Posts

Gents,

 

I know this has been asked before but i cant seem to find a decent answer....

 

Does anybody know parts number or have links to the oil sensors that go into the housing on a abf or 9a?

 

I have 3 spaces for sensors and i would like to buy new parts. I dont have the old sensors for reference anymore.

 

Thanks in advance!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I renewed all my sensors /switches on my MK2 golf 16V kr recently. Part number 049 919 501 its the same as on the KR engine, I also changed the one at the rear of the block, the 2 pin brown thermal switch(yours will be white) and the two above the oil cooler.

 

They are now obsolete from VW , the best you can get are Beru ST053, Thats if its the three on the right side of the block your after under the distributor.

 

There are other aftermarket ones available but Beru you got to go with IMO. Quality !

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beru-ST053-0824121102-Coolant-Water-Temperature-Sensor-Replaces-049-919-501/232847920190?epid=1020846356&hash=item3636d14c3e:g:eXQAAOSwh8NbSNn8

Edited by Keyo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, I forgot how responsive you guys are on this forum, I always get some good advice quickly on here!

 

Keyo, im replacing the ones on the oil cooler housing , the beru looks good , do you have a link for the correct ones for the front of the block?

 

FenderVg, I did have a quick look on parts cat but when trying to order there are lots of variations now , I will try again, thanks for the link.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I can remember and what I've found in my service history going back to 2009, I think these are the original part numbers for the 9A engine, possibly similar or the same for the ABF & KR

 

High pressure oil sensor switch

(white 1.8 bar)

Part number 056 919 081

 

Oil pressure secondary switch

(brown 0.3 bar)

Also you can get the blue one below.

(Blue 0.4 bar)

Part number 028 919 081H

 

Oil temp sender

Part number 049 919 563A

Normally fits in back of head on 9A & ABF

the KR might be on the oil filter housing.

 

Si

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
From what I can remember and what I've found in my service history going back to 2009, I think these are the original part numbers for the 9A engine, possibly similar or the same for the ABF & KR

 

High pressure oil sensor switch

(white 1.8 bar)

Part number 056 919 081

 

Oil pressure secondary switch

(brown 0.3 bar)

Also you can get the blue one below.

(Blue 0.4 bar)

Part number 028 919 081H

 

Oil temp sender

Part number 049 919 563A

Normally fits in back of head on 9A & ABF

the KR might be on the oil filter housing.

 

Si

 

 

I fitted the white oil switch to my Mk2 golf this weekend above the oil cooler , I tightened it then it seemed to loosen a bit and then go to the same tightness again which is pretty sturdy , hope I have not threaded it. Also fitted one of The Buri coolant sensors, the one that the spade ends fit on to on the side of the block KR engine , learning quickly one snapped off whilst tightening , these things are pretty damn fragile but look like a solid nut. Managed to tap an oversized flat head screwdriver into the bit left in the block and it bite enough so I could screw it out, came out in one piece thank god. Had to order a new sensor grrrr !

 

What would be folks tighten on these , say tighten in till stiff then half a turn ? , am I the only buffon that has snapped one of these !

 

Another thing is I would get some new female brass spade ends if doing this job as the end of the cables were pretty rotten and the spades literally fell off the end when dislodged with the rotten end of the fragile electric cable. I stripped back and made a nice thresh bit of end cable and put the new spade on.

Edited by Keyo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I fitted the white oil switch to my Mk2 golf this weekend above the oil cooler , I tightened it then it seemed to loosen a bit and then go to the same tightness again which is pretty sturdy , hope I have not threaded it. Also fitted one of The Buri coolant sensors, the one that the spade ends fit on to on the side of the block KR engine , learning quickly one snapped off whilst tightening , these things are pretty damn fragile but look like a solid nut. Managed to tap an oversized flat head screwdriver into the bit left in the block and it bite enough so I could screw it out, came out in one piece thank god. Had to order a new sensor grrrr !

 

What would be folks tighten on these , say tighten in till stiff then half a turn ? , am I the only buffon that has snapped one of these !

 

Another thing is I would get some new female brass spade ends if doing this job as the end of the cables were pretty rotten and the spades literally fell off the end when dislodged with the rotten end of the fragile electric cable. I stripped back and made a nice thresh bit of end cable and put the new spade on.

 

I've just had a quick read through the Bentley Manual for the (9A) 16v engine,

it'll be similar for the (KR) 16v.

 

Basically it doesn't give any torque settings for the oil pressure switches.

 

The OEM switches from new normally had a small amount of red or yellow thread lock on the centre of thread, you normally screw the oil pressure switch in by hand until it stops on the front edge of thread lock, you possibly might be able to just still turn it by hand another 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then it'll be too tight to turn by hand, so you'll need a spanner or ratchet and socket to tighten up properly,

when using the spanner or ratchet it should start of really easy to turn the oil pressure switch, then as soon as you feel any slight resistance go easy.

 

For me personally I'd say (12 to 15 ft.Ib) max for the oil pressure switch, do not tighten anymore then that.

 

Oil filter housing bolts

25 Nm (18 ft.Ib)

 

Oil cooler retaining nut

25 Nm (18 ft.Ib)

 

Also says on the 16v engines that they have extra oil pray nozzles attached to base of cylinder bores, these nozzles open up at oil pressure above 3.5 bar (50 PSI)

 

Regarding the oil filter, make sure both surfaces are clean on oil filter housing face and oil filter sealing rubber ring,

then smear small amount of oil or grease over oil filter sealing rubber ring,

when refitting oil filter screw on by hand gently until it stops, then grip oil filter tightly and turn 3/4 to 1 full turn max, don't tighten anymore then that.

 

REMEMBER to smear a small amount of oil or grease on the oil filter sealing rubber ring, or you'll never be able to remove your filter next time.

 

Si

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I doubt the sensors - especially the brass ones will take half a turn, 10mm x 1mm pitch, so essentially you’re trying to stretch the threaded part 0.5mm or crush the copper washer similar. I’d go finger tight and a nip and monitor for seepage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys, I should of posted this before fitting them , didn't help my old ones were very old that they took quite a bit of pressure to release and assumed the new ones must be the same . When I fit my new fuel injector lines and start the engine i'll be be examining the engine bay for leaks , knowing my luck it will be like Niagra falls in there.

 

Anyone know what the torque is for the Banjo bolts on the injector lines.

 

Cheers,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone know what the torque is for the Banjo bolts on the injector lines.

 

Cheers,

 

According to the Bentley Manual,

the 4 Banjo bolts for the injector pipes in the fuel distributor are:

10 Nm (7 ft.Ib)

 

Large Banjo bolts around metering head are 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib)

 

Small Banjo bolts around metering head are 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib)

 

Plus are the same torque settings for large & small Banjo bolts on the fuel pressure regulator that's bolted to front of engine block on (KR) 1.8 16v

Large Banjo 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib)

Small Banjo 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib)

 

Also the same torque settings for both fuel pipes on the fuel pressure regulator on (9A) 2.0 16v this one is bolted to side of metering head.

Large pipe 20 Nm (15 ft.Ib)

Small pipe 10 Nm (7 ft.Ib)

But this doesn't have Banjo bolts.

 

Hope this helps

 

Si

Edited by vw rule

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me personally I'd say (12 to 15 ft.Ib) max for the oil pressure switch, do not tighten anymore then that.

 

Si

 

No I tell a lie I've just found the torque setting for the oil pressure switches.

 

25Nm (18 ft.Ib from Bentley Manual

 

I'd still be careful torquing them up to this setting as they can easily break.

 

Si

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Si,

 

I've put the old one on now, the new one comes to replace it, I just tightened it in till it set then did a small little turn. It was the switch that threaded right at the top, such a waist but only about £15.00 and at least I got the torque settings for the injector lines, I wonder if the injectors are the same torque as the small banjo bolt that fit on the other end of the injector line from the metering head .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just an explanation of what Im doing, the fuel injector lines were really rusty on my 1.8 16V and shaming the engine bay, I have sent them to Hel performance to custom manufacturer some (7in total). You can buy some standard braided lines(off the shelf) from Hel Performance and Goodrich but they look pretty bad as dont have the turns and curves in them and look like an Octopus is humping your engine.

 

Off the shelf are about £150.00

 

Custom made are £250.00 ( you have to send your old fuel injector lines to them to be re created) takes up to 2 weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks Si,

 

I've put the old one on now, the new one comes to replace it, I just tightened it in till it set then did a small little turn. It was the switch that threaded right at the top, such a waist but only about £15.00 and at least I got the torque settings for the injector lines, I wonder if the injectors are the same torque as the small banjo bolt that fit on the other end of the injector line from the metering head .

 

I've had one or two break in the past,

to be honest it is easily done, as they're such a small fine thread, plus they can easily cross thread.

The oil pressure switch thread possibly is parallel, meaning it's even and straight.

 

The coolant temp senders sometimes can be tapered thread but not always.

 

I can't see any torque settings for the fuel pipe to injector, so you'll need two spanner's, one for injector to stabilize it so it can't spin round, and the other to do up the retaining nut on the end of pipe.

 

Si

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just an explanation of what Im doing, the fuel injector lines were really rusty on my 1.8 16V and shaming the engine bay, I have sent them to Hel performance to custom manufacturer some (7in total). You can buy some standard braided lines(off the shelf) from Hel Performance and Goodrich but they look pretty bad as dont have the turns and curves in them and look like an Octopus is humping your engine.

 

Off the shelf are about £150.00

 

Custom made are £250.00 ( you have to send your old fuel injector lines to them to be re created) takes up to 2 weeks.

 

Fair play getting new fuel pipes made,

I've had my low pressure fuel pipes repaired with new hose ends, the one's above fuel tank, and had the long main fuel pipe's repaired from fuel metering head to high pressure fuel pump housing.

 

I'm surprised they weren't leaking as the hose ends and special crimp fixings were heavily perished / corroded.

 

Si

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Si , I would like to do my return and feed fuel pipes in the engine bay as well , you can get the one off classic vw in the Uk for about £30.00 .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks Si , I would like to do my return and feed fuel pipes in the engine bay as well , you can get the one off classic vw in the Uk for about £30.00 .

 

Oh right ok, cheers.

 

Si

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the Part Numbers, very useful!

 

I'm still trying to work out which ones to use, i now have the 2 pressure switches fitted into the oil filter housing.

 

I now need to find a suitable temp sensor, i need one that takes a single spade connector as per the other 2... the part number you mentioned shows a sensor with a different type of fitting and i believe is to go on the head?

 

To clarify this has only become an issue because i am building a cleaned bay 16v abf on Jenvey ITB's and i build it up from a bare block without the old one for reference ( big mistake lol ) also i have a bespoke wiring loom to add to the mix.

 

Part of the build includes ensuring the loom doesn't have to travel all over the bay so im trying to keep sensors close to each other (within reason).

 

Also coming back to this build after are few years has not helped lol....

 

The help and knowledge on here has proved super useful. Much appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the Part Numbers, very useful!

 

I'm still trying to work out which ones to use, i now have the 2 pressure switches fitted into the oil filter housing.

 

I now need to find a suitable temp sensor, i need one that takes a single spade connector as per the other 2... the part number you mentioned shows a sensor with a different type of fitting and i believe is to go on the head?

 

To clarify this has only become an issue because i am building a cleaned bay 16v abf on Jenvey ITB's and i build it up from a bare block without the old one for reference ( big mistake lol ) also i have a bespoke wiring loom to add to the mix.

 

Part of the build includes ensuring the loom doesn't have to travel all over the bay so im trying to keep sensors close to each other (within reason).

 

Also coming back to this build after are few years has not helped lol....

 

The help and knowledge on here has proved super useful. Much appreciated

 

Oil temp sender

Part number 049 919 563A

Normally fits in back of head the side facing exhaust manifold, should fit top left on 9A & ABF

But the KR might be on the oil filter housing.

******************

 

2.0 16v 9A ABF

Coolant temp switch (2 pin)

white connector block

Part number 026 906 161

 

Normally fits in back of head under distributor.

***************

 

2.0 16v 9A ABF

Coolant sender for temp gauge,

single spade round connection.

Colour = White

Temp range = 0 - 150°C

Thread M10 X 1mm

OEM Part number 027 919 501 ??

 

Normally fits in back of head under distributor.

****************

 

KR 9A ABF

Coolant temp sensor

single spade flat connection.

Colour = Black

Spade diameter 6.3 mm

Temp range 0 - 125°C

Thread = M10 X 1mm

OEM Part number 027 919 501

VW Heritage 049 919 501

 

Looks like you can also get this sender with the single round connection (colour black) same part number 049 919 501

 

Normally fits in back of head under distributor.

 

Si

Edited by vw rule

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...