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seanl82

Brake pipe fittings

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Can anyone recommend some decent brake pipe fittings and where to source them? Not sure if they're available from the dealer (are any even open at the moment?). I don't really want electroplated ones as they're just not very effective at resisting corrosion very long, so the others I've seen are brass or stainless. Stainless would be good but at nearly a fiver each it works out pretty expensive, though I will fork out if needed. Brass I imagine will look pants after a very short while and tarnish/get covered in verdigris but I'm after any advice especially from those with experience.

I've decided to go with kunifer lines as although it would be great to have factory green steel and it should last being garaged and not driven in the wet, it's about preservation for me now so good hard lines that won't corrode is the route I want to take.

TIA

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Ive only got the kunifer ones on mine with standard brass fittings,  never thought to look if there were better alternatives . 

Could you lacquer the brass so they stay looking nice ?

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Any decent motor factors that can make up brake lines to match what you bring in will have a selection of fittings. Because it's under the car, it doesn't really seem to matter what you use in terms of corrosion resistance, as they will get exposed to all sorts of everything anyway. Stainless and kunifer is a popular option though if you are looking to prevent corrosion on the unions a bit:

https://www.kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/tubing/466-475-cunifer-brake-tubes-with-stainless-steel-fittings.html

If you are doing a full resto the cost would be a drop in the ocean - having said that I've only ever fitted standard ones on my cars - the problem is because they don't get touched for many years, they can easily round off when trying to undo them, but that's where special brake fitting spanners come in handy.

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1 hour ago, Cressa said:

Ive only got the kunifer ones on mine with standard brass fittings,  never thought to look if there were better alternatives . 

Could you lacquer the brass so they stay looking nice ?

Thanks for the response Cressa, that's what I was thinking actually. All food for thought but just wanted to get others opinions really

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34 minutes ago, fendervg said:

Any decent motor factors that can make up brake lines to match what you bring in will have a selection of fittings. Because it's under the car, it doesn't really seem to matter what you use in terms of corrosion resistance, as they will get exposed to all sorts of everything anyway. Stainless and kunifer is a popular option though if you are looking to prevent corrosion on the unions a bit:

https://www.kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/tubing/466-475-cunifer-brake-tubes-with-stainless-steel-fittings.html

If you are doing a full resto the cost would be a drop in the ocean - having said that I've only ever fitted standard ones on my cars - the problem is because they don't get touched for many years, they can easily round off when trying to undo them, but that's where special brake fitting spanners come in handy.

Thanks Fenders, yeah cost for fittings will be about £70 for stainless compared to about £25 for brass. Not a big difference when you put it like that, just me trying to keep costs down as I also want a better flaring and a new bending tool which is obviously pushing costs up. I've got a new set of braided hoses with stainless fittings too, so dissimilar metals (brass/stainless) doesn't always go well. I've been looking at automec as they're a UK company and the do full sets, though Corrado isn't listed (MK2 & 3 Golfs are though), I might give them a call. I have brake spanners and all the originals came off without issue (after a soak with plus gas) - apart from the ones connected to copper pipe where I replaced the fronts a few years ago. The pipe was too soft and just turned with the fitting.

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On 5/3/2020 at 9:32 AM, fendervg said:

Any decent motor factors that can make up brake lines to match what you bring in will have a selection of fittings. Because it's under the car, it doesn't really seem to matter what you use in terms of corrosion resistance, as they will get exposed to all sorts of everything anyway. Stainless and kunifer is a popular option though if you are looking to prevent corrosion on the unions a bit:

https://www.kurth-classics-autoparts.de/gb/tubing/466-475-cunifer-brake-tubes-with-stainless-steel-fittings.html

If you are doing a full resto the cost would be a drop in the ocean - having said that I've only ever fitted standard ones on my cars - the problem is because they don't get touched for many years, they can easily round off when trying to undo them, but that's where special brake fitting spanners come in handy.

Thanks Fenders, yeah cost for fittings will be about £70 for stainless compared to about £25 for brass. Not a big difference when you put it like that, just me trying to keep costs down as I also want a better flaring and a new bending tool which is obviously pushing costs up. I've got a new set of braided hoses with stainless fittings too, so dissimilar metals (brass/stainless) doesn't always go well. I've been looking at automec as they're a UK company and the do full sets, though Corrado isn't listed (MK2 & 3 Golfs are though), I might give them a call. I have brake spanners and all the originals came off without issue (after a soak with plus gas) - apart from the ones connected to copper pipe where I replaced the fronts a few years ago. The pipe was too soft and just turned with the fitting.

 

Ok I went for stainless & kunifer pipe. The only exception being the M12 union as I was buggered if I could find one online! 

I ended up getting them from here;

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk

 

17x M10 stainless unions, 1x M12 union and 50ft of Kunifer pipe. I still have a bit left from the first roll I used to practice with so should have plenty. 🙂

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Sorry for the hijack

I'm looking to replace some copper brake lines on my Corrado as one of the unions has been damaged trying to replace a stainless front line. I have never done this before so am a completenovice looking for some advice on a good quality flaring kit and a bending tool. Is it better to use kunifer rather than copper? stainless unions?

Has anyone got any links or tips to offer before I commit to buying the gear and having a practice please?

Many Thanks

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Kunifer is a bit stronger than copper so a good middle ground between copper & steel. You don't necessarily need stainless unions if you get good quality ones, but the cheap electroplated ones don't last 5 minutes. I had a cheap flaring tool that gave mixed results, but borrowed one like this that was really good. https://www.frost.co.uk/3-16in-sae-flaring-tool-set/

I wouldn't bother with a bending tool in all honesty unless you really fork out for one, as the can be bent by using the radius of a socket or something much better and using you original as a template. Mine are all on now and look good everywhere apart from around the ABS pump unfortunately, as it's difficult to get it fitted and weaved in between other things around that area without bending the pipe slightly and deforming it slightly from the original shape. Definitely worth a try and a 25ft roll would provide plenty for a bit of trial and error first if you're only replacing a couple of pipes.

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Depending where you are located, I have that flaring tool (the one Sean linked to) and a bending tool. Happy to lend it out. I’m in Basingstoke.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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I used a place in Crewe called mini fords on eddleston road, 2 foot of pipe, 12mm x 1 mm fitting on one end, 10mm  X 1mm on the other was £4. Made while I waited 2 mins only.
 

you can measure the route of the pipe with string and the occasional piece of insulation tape adding a couple of inches on for any errors.

 

 

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I used a place in Crewe called mini fords on eddleston road, 2 foot of pipe, 12mm x 1 mm fitting on one end, 10mm  X 1mm on the other was £4. Made while I waited 2 mins only.
 
you can measure the route of the pipe with string and the occasional piece of insulation tape adding a couple of inches on for any errors.
 
 

05d7cef33f9aa7afb5461c59929dd8f5.jpg
Check opening times due to covid


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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If you look on Zap7VW it details cut length for each pipe. You'll obviously have to bend it after but as said before, you can use the old one as a template

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I found this guy doing them on ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-CORRADO-2-9-VR6-PRE-BENT-COPPER-BRAKE-PIPE-LINE-SET-FRONT-KIT/193483321680?hash=item2d0c813150:g:p8sAAOSwwbdWPPiV

Unions aren't stainless, but otherwise seem alright. With everything else I have to do I just wanted some off the shelf so thes efit the bill. The original unions were so badly corroded anyway I had to cut them off so may not matter that much if these go the same way.

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